Opinion on L&R Durs Egg lock

[The Baron]

Hi Guys,

I see a half-stock flintlock fowler up for sale locally. It has a 30 in northstar 12ga barrel and L&R Durs Egg lock. The gun is made by John Bergman. Is anyone familiar with his work? I really don't recognize many of the gunmakers names yet.

What do you guys think of the L&R Durs Egg lock and Northstar barrel? Do y'all think a 30in. barrel is long enough to make an effective turkey gun?

 

[Dane]

John Bergman is a class act. Does nice work.
There is at least one of his guns for sale on Track right now. Check it out.

L&R Durs Egg and the Bailles locks are the only L&R lock I'd use. They both are fast, functional little locks.

If the barrel is jug choked, it will probably work well for turkey. If not, a $50 bill will fix it.
Hope that helps.

 

[Bob Gular]

The L&R Durs Egg lock is fast and ,in my experience, reliable. I have used them in several rifles and have had no complaints from the owners. As to the 30 inch barrel, it should be fine with the proper load, which you have to determine. The 12 gauge smoothie I use needs a shotcup to make an acceptable turkey killing pattern at 25 yards with it's 32 inch barrel.

 

[Deerstalker]

I know this is somewhat comparing apples and oranges, but I have a Navy 12 guage double I bought for turkey hunting. I'm using 1 1/2 oz. shot and 80 grains of powder, and I'm putting 10-15 pellets of number 4 shot in a turkey head target at 30 yards. My double gun is a cylinder bore. I spent two evenings at the range working up the load, and for me and my style of hunting, I think the pattern I'm getting from the cylinder bore is acceptable to kill a turkey. I also use the standard shot and powder cards and wad, 1 each and full size just as manufactured. Easy to load also. My point of this rant is, try patterning the gun before you decide whether or not you want to put a choke in the barrel. With the right load, you may find a cylinder bore to be effective enough for you.
Just my 1 cent worth,
Bryan

 

[SR James]

I have an L&R Durs Egg on one of my Tenn. rifles I built in 2001. It's been a fast, reliable lock and I've had no problemes with it.

 

[The Baron]

Thanks for the replies fellas. I e-mailed the seller yesterday with some Q's and to ask for some full length pics. I just heard back and the gun already sold. I guess that's what I get for thinking before I spend my money! :haha:

Now I'm back to pining over a new jug-choked fowler. :hmm:

 

[torn moc]

.......well....like they say " ya snooze..ya loose".....It happened to me many times...
so is life...live & learn

 

[jdixon]

A buddy of mine had a custom done by Mr. Bergman, quality work.

As for the Durs Egg by L&R, I have one on my TN Mountain Rifle, my main shootin' iron for venison - I have never had a problem with that lock. Only some minor tuning was required when it was new. Today, after several thousand rounds, it is running smooth, very good on the flints, typically getting 60 - 90 stikes out of a flint before replacement. I would recommend that lock to anyone - can't help you on that barrel you mentioned.

 

[MSW]

i'm sorry you lost out on the deal- it sounded like a nice gun. as regards the Durs Egg, i have one on a .40 cal, and it works fine, but i learned in the build (much to my chagrin) that if you manage to reverse the link between the mainspring and the tumbler, it will ride up against the underside of the tumbler arm and overstress, causing the tumbler to break.

so, if you ever buy a piece with this lock, be extra- careful about how you put it back together if you ever have to take it apart.

 

[Dane]

I did exactly the same thing.

Always remember... it goes back in as a letter "S" with the small end at the top.

The Bailles lock is the same way.