Order Of Finishing A Stock

[5stewart]

What would be the proper order of finishing a stock assuming I am going to use agua-fortis, stain, etc. Obviously the agu-fortis is first, then stain, then?? Should the stock receive several coats of varnish sanded in between the coats? I have read where there are finishes that are oils and are rubbed in. To many years ago I finished a Kentucky pistol, walnut stock, with varnish, sanding, varnish, sanding several times and then use pumice stone and rotten stone powder to hand rub a finish that was rock hard and has lasted a long time. Please tell me the pros and cons. I have a curly/striped maple stock that is close to the finish step.

I have noticed that some stocks have the inlays, toe plates and etc. finished to the stock before the stock is stained. How is the toe plate or inlay protected and cleaned later?

 

[Phil Coffins]

Once the maple is sanded and well whiskered apply the agufortus in an area and heat to blush it then move to the next area till you've done the whole stock. Next use an oil finish of your choice and put it on heavy. Stay with it adding oil to any area that has absorbed the first coat competly. After a few minutes wipe off all excess oil and set the stock aside to dry for a day or two. When dry add a tiny bit of oil to an area and rub in with you hand, you only want a very thin film. Compete the entire stock quickly and set aside to dry. This will take a few coats over time. Do not sand between coats. Fixed inlays are left in place but butt plate, toe plate, barrel, lock and such are removed first. Inlays can be cleaned off after the finish is complete.

 

[Phil Coffins]

These rifles were finished in this manner. Except the lower one was stained with potassium permanganate. This is before engraving.
IMG_1287 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr
20111225115437_04 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr

 

[5stewart]

Thank you for your answer. Both rifles look great. What are some of the examples of oils?
If it is to be stained darker I guess that would be done after the auga-fortis and before the oils??

 

[Zonie]

"If it is to be stained darker I guess that would be done after the auga-fortis and before the oils?? "
------------
That is correct.

All staining whether it is done with Aqua Fortis or alcohol based stains must be done before any oil is applied.

This may present a problem if you think the first stains are not dark enough to suit you because the darkness and color of the stained surface will appear much lighter than it will be after oil of any kind is applied when the wood is dry.

To find out what the real darkness and color will be, take the stock into a well lit room or better yet, take it outside into the sunlight.

Using a dampened rag or a spray bottle, apply some water to the surface.
When it is wet, the full color and darkness of the wood will show clearly.

If it looks good to you, you can stop right there and proceed to the oiling stage.

I do not recommend using "sealers" after staining and definitely not before staining.
Perhaps the one place a sealer after staining does have merit is if the builder want to paint ink stripes on the wood to make a striped stock like Henery Leman did in the early 1800's.
Of course, your fully striped maple stock does't need those stripes.

As for the oil to use, many like Birchwood Casey "Tru-Oil". Others like Laurel Mountain Permalyn Gun Stock Finish or one of the Tung oils and a few who want to stay very traditional will use boiled linseed.

Tru-Oil is basically a linseed oil with dryers added. It usually drys in 6-8 hours.

Tung oil is often found with dryers added but 100% tung oil is available. The problem with it is it takes almost as long as linseed oil to dry.

Linseed oil takes a long time to dry. Usually more than 3 or 4 days and often up to a week.
Linseed oil is notorious for spotting if it gets water on it.

You really need to let each coat dry before the next one is added and each coat should be applied with a rag and rubbed into the wood.
"Painting" these finishes on will look like....it's been painted on. :hmm:

I think the Minwax finish looks too much like something that should be on a book case but, that's just my opinion.

 

[Vaino]

There are many ways to finish a gunstock and mny builders have their own way to do it. Here's mine and it's done after whiskering.

I don't use AF and instead use Dangler stains from Jim Klein and use up to 3 stains on a stock w/ a dry in between. After the stain{s} are dry, a good rubbing w/ 0000 steel wool removes any unabsorbed surface stain and smooths the wood.

Two soak in/wipe off coats of LMF sealer are applied w/ a complete dry between coats. The soak in time for each coat is usually around 10 mins., but this can vary so don't let the sealer setup. When the last coat is completely dry, another good rubbing w/ steel wool removes any surface sealer.

Two very sparse. finger applied coats of Wahkon Bay Trucoat are then applied w/ a complete dry between coats.. Smaller areas are done and rubbed until the areas "feel" dry. . If there's carving or moldings, a tooth brush is used to prevent any excess accumulation.

When dry the stock will have very little shine and a fluffy towel will bring out some sheen. The LRs shown below were done as explained above. As an added note...my first LR was stained w/ potassium permanganate and it yielded a slight greenish hue.....Fred

 

[Dave Marsh]

Fred, I am getting ready to stain a stock. Could you describe your staining method and the Klein stains you use?

Thanks,

Dave

 

[Rifleman1776]

finger applied coats of Wahkon Bay Trucoat

Reminds me of a time, sitting around the campfire at a ronny....one of the fellows had just finished a rifle. It got passed hand to hand around the fire for each man to apply some blo and rub it in then pass on to the next. Supposedly, the warmth from the hand rubbing helped give a good finish. And each man contributing gave special meaning to the rifle and event for the owner.

 

[Vaino]

I usually start off using the orange toner from Jim Klein and then use Danglers reddish brown or dark brown or both, These stains can be lightened w/ alcohol saturated cloths. The orange toner gives a nice yellow undertone. Most of my stocks are more on the dark side and I'm not concerned about the amount or intensity of the curl.

The pic shown below is the result of the Dang;er stains as sold by Jim Klein......Fred

 

[Dave Marsh]

Thanks. Fred. I have all 3 so I will give it a try. :thumbsup:

Dave

 

[5stewart]

So I am at the last step of the finish. The two coats of agua-foris and heating went very well.I was very impressed by the process. I have applied three coats of Tru-oil and the stock looks great.

After each coat of Tru-oil the stock looks great but I can see a small amount of non-smooth areas when I hold the stock and rotate to see the smoothness. I use a gentle Scotch Brite pad to lightly smooth the stock and then rub in another coat. All coats are allowed to dry completely.
So my questions are;
Is there a way to apply the Tru-Oil and have a completely smooth surface or will I have to go to pumice and rotten stone for the final finish?
I noticed after I scotch brite the stock and then wipe it down with a clean cloth towel The stock has the look and the smoothness I am after. Should I just stop there?

 

[Davemuzz]

IMHO if you have it where you like it, then why keep going? I've always used Tru-oil and found it to be easy to use, and provide a nice finish.

 

[5stewart]

I would say the finish is nice. I may have to smooth it down and call it good. I wanted to download two pictures of the finish effect that I was talking about but didn’t know how on this forum.
I was hoping to get a smooth finish and not have to use the scotch brute pad.
Pumus and rotten stone may be next.
Any other ideas or criticisms that may help?

 

[Flint62Smoothie]

Pumus and rotten stone may be next.

When I used 'thick' oils like True Oil I resorted to pumice or rotten stone all the time ... but find you need MANY coats underneath.

Now I have switched finishes to wiping oil by Arm-R-Seal, which many ultra high-end custom furniture makers use. The coat build ups are flawless and the chatoyance when hand-rubbed in must be seen to be truly appreciated. I start with gloss to build up the finish and the last 1 or 2 (no more) is satin. The gloss coats build depth to the finish and being the same oil, the satin topcoat gives it the PERFECT sheen that I am after.

Sadly, I've not switched all of my pictures over to iMgur yet.

 

[5stewart]

Neat idea! Gloss to give it depth and satin for the soft look. I’ll keep that in mind.
When I rub the Tru-Oil in I am wearing rubber gloves. The thin deposal kind. I rub until the surface starts to drag and feel dry. Maybe I should rub it in without the gloves.
The surface looks smooth except when you are looking at the “shine line” that moves when the stock is rotated. I’m probably cutting hairs but l’ve come this far with a good build and some advice is welcome.
Next I’ll have to learn how to load pictures on this sight so everyone can see the end result and tell me what I need to do on my next build

 

[Col. Batguano]

What are those crystals that are dissolved in something else again? I'm experimenting with stains right now.

 

[nhmoose]

I do not wear gloves to rub a stock. Nor do I rub true oil, True-Oil I wipe of with a clean no lint cloth. Then I rub artist linseed oil by bare hand, I also use the artist oil to rub antique stocks.

Artist oil is linseed oil very pure with some dryer added it can be bought in ant art shop.

I have used it for years in my Gunshop as a restorer of finish that does not kill the value of the arm.

 

[Col. Batguano]

I found it in an old thread. Ferric nitrate powder or crystals. What sort of a dilution mixture / concentration should be used with that stuff?

 

[Artificer]

I have tried using rottenstone and pumice after the last coat of Tru Oil, but found it did not work for me.

What I have been using for well over a decade now after the last coat and to get a "Warm Glow" to the finish is the White Color Abrasive Pads sold in Big Box Hardware Stores in the Paint Section as the "equivalent" of OOOO Steel Wool. Actually, it is even less abrasive then 0000 Steel Wool.

After a very light rubbing of the finish with that, I rub the dickens out of the stock with a Terrycloth Wash Cloth or piece of towel. That gives a finish that many people really like.

Gus

 

[Ames]

I found it in an old thread. Ferric nitrate powder or crystals. What sort of a dilution mixture / concentration should be used with that stuff?

I went 25% with alcohol. You could try only 10 or 15% to get room in the color for multiple gradual coats. Was happy with the results.