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Order Of Finishing A Stock

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When you go with the more diluted mixtures, do you apply, blush, apply, re-blush, or apply, apply, then blush only once? Or, test on you scrap to see which one works the best and then go with that?
 
Hickorynut said:
I was hoping to get a smooth finish and not have to use the scotch brute pad.

Pumus and rotten stone may be next.

Any other ideas or criticisms that may help?


I would never use ScotchBrite - I instead use a new 0000 steel wool pad to rub down each coat of Tru-Oil, running a magnet over the stock after each rubdown is completed to remove any possible steel dust that could comtaminate subsequent coats.

The idea of rubbing the each coat down to the wood is to fill the pores in the wood, with as many coats as it takes (each stock's porosity is what it is, and can be different from a different piece of wood) for a very smooth final finish.

Once the last coat's applied, dries, and looks smooth, there's 2 ways one can go: 1) Rub the stock down again for a satin finish, and apply paste wax a couple of weeks later, or, 2) Rub in a very thin coat of TO with a bare fingertip for a glossier finish.
 
Test with scrap, always. Keep in mind unless the scrap is from your stock it wont be an exact match, but will get you close.
I prefer to apply, dry, heat, repeat. Wet it with water or alcohol to see where you are in color after the heat.
But be ready. After you apply it will turn green. :shocked2: Browns up with the heat.
I must have a picture around here somewhere....


Acid 007 by Ames, on Flickr


Heat 015 by Ames, on Flickr
 
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