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Anyone notice the original poster hasn't been heard from for a while.?
 
So Jim Kibler has just started offering a .45 cal. I started hunting Southeast Alaska in 1984. I hunt there 2-3 times per year. I have taken just over 20 Black Bears with a bow since 1984. Among the group of guys I hunt with we have taken over 70 bears in Alaska. I will hunt over bait so I can control my shot. The bear will be at 18 yards and slightly angled away. I will not hit shoulder, but will take out both lungs. Most of our bears do not cover 40 yards when double lunged. This bait I have hunted since 1986 when I first found it. I will video this shot and follow up. As far as the build, I will take lots of photos. You guys are the ones that are helping me, I will be sure to share all the steps, the build and the hunt. My permit is for spring 2017. I will head up in September to hunt on the river with a friend who drew that tag. At that time I will put out my game cameras for my Sitka Hunt November. I hope this sheds some light on my hunti g back ground.
 
kirkschopped67 said:
So Jim Kibler has just started offering a .45 cal. I started hunting Southeast Alaska in 1984. I hunt there 2-3 times per year. I have taken just over 20 Black Bears with a bow since 1984. Among the group of guys I hunt with we have taken over 70 bears in Alaska. I will hunt over bait so I can control my shot. The bear will be at 18 yards and slightly angled away. I will not hit shoulder, but will take out both lungs. Most of our bears do not cover 40 yards when double lunged. This bait I have hunted since 1986 when I first found it. I will video this shot and follow up. As far as the build, I will take lots of photos. You guys are the ones that are helping me, I will be sure to share all the steps, the build and the hunt. My permit is for spring 2017. I will head up in September to hunt on the river with a friend who drew that tag. At that time I will put out my game cameras for my Sitka Hunt November. I hope this sheds some light on my hunti g back ground.



I personally would have more faith in a stout broad head at that range than a .440 pill.
 
[
My plan will be to harvest a Black Bear in Alaska next May with this flintlock.

Kirk[/quote]
I think you would have to put many .40 balls down the barrel to make it somewhat effective as a bear gun. :grin: :surrender:
Fred
 
Black bears usually go down easier than a white tail deer. They have fairly small lungs for their size, though, and shots need to be accurate.

I'm sure there were thousands of black bear killed with .45 cal. And under back in the day.
 
okawbow said:
Black bears usually go down easier than a white tail deer. They have fairly small lungs for their size, though, and shots need to be accurate.

I'm sure there were thousands of black bear killed with .45 cal. And under back in the day.

Exactly, If the shot is not double lung, that bear will walk out of the country. I have seen good men, shoot good broad heads, at good bears, but not double lung them, it is just a mess.

I was once told by a wise man "It is not the kayak; it is the Eskimo" :rotf:
 
Hi,
Yes and I have seen black bears in southeast Alaska running around with arrows stuck in them and dying by degrees. Moreover, during black bear season, we used to follow the ravens and eagles, because they led us to black bear carcasses that were never recovered by the hunters. I know way too much about what really goes on with black bear hunting in Southeast Alaska. And I have met way too many hunters who don't give a crap about the welfare of the animal they are killing. Kirk, you must get your bear baiting permits from Phil Mooney in Sitka or his assistant.

dave
 
okawbow said:
Black bears usually go down easier than a white tail deer. They have fairly small lungs for their size, though, and shots need to be accurate.

I'm sure there were thousands of black bear killed with .45 cal. And under back in the day.

How many do you think might not have been recovered? This is not back in the day.
 
Kirk

Best of luck with your adventure.

As a hunter you have an idea of what you are doing.

I realize that you did not ask for advice on the cal. for bears, and we are all giving you our opinions anyway.

I would not go after bears with a .45 cal round ball.

But there will be those that will tell me I should not shoot a deer at some of the ranges I do with a ML. We all have different abilities and talents. Just because I can do it does not mean that it is right for others.

Best of luck and enjoy the build.

fleener
 
Kirk

at 18 yards you might want to try using a conical. Your rifling will not be ideal for it, but you are shooting up close. Not much opportunity for the bullet to become unstable.

It would be a better option than a round ball.

fleener
 
I have a .32 on order right now, but have a feeling I may end up with more than one, or two.... If they are what I think they are.

Doc
 
I know this is an old thread but, like the kudo's for Kibler kits. I also am going to take the plunge but hear he is coming out soon with a American Revolution rifle soon. May hold until. Anyway so nice to hear all the positive feedback. Joe
 
I have a Kibler mountain rifle 45 cal arriving tomorrow. You pay quite a bit more than other kits but hopefully the quality justifies the price. I hear it does.

He and Katherine are very good about answering questions.
I don't get the revolutionary period future offering. Chambers has that covered. A definite hole in the market is the later golden age rifles.

With his current equipment he can only turn two stocks a day. He is currently moving and expanding his shop. He is limited on production. IF you want something get in line sooner than later.

PS: 45 cal RB is no bear rifle. For comparison, a 45 caliber handgun firing round nose lead bullets and BP cartridges in the same ballpark. It is clearly insufficient too.

I personally would not go less than 54cal. IF I were making a rifle for this it would be a 62. A double rifle would be good insurance. Read "The Muzzle loading Caplock Rifle" by Ned Roberts. He has lots of bear hunting stories and rifle opinions from somebody who actually did it. Spoiler, he liked double rifles and conical bullets.
 
Scota4570 said:
I have a Kibler mountain rifle 45 cal arriving tomorrow. You pay quite a bit more than other kits but hopefully the quality justifies the price. I hear it does.

He and Katherine are very good about answering questions.
I don't get the revolutionary period future offering. Chambers has that covered. A definite hole in the market is the later golden age rifles.

With his current equipment he can only turn two stocks a day. He is currently moving and expanding his shop. He is limited on production. IF you want something get in line sooner than later.

PS: 45 cal RB is no bear rifle. For comparison, a 45 caliber handgun firing round nose lead bullets and BP cartridges in the same ballpark. It is clearly insufficient too.

I personally would not go less than 54cal. IF I were making a rifle for this it would be a 62. A double rifle would be good insurance. Read "The Muzzle loading Caplock Rifle" by Ned Roberts. He has lots of bear hunting stories and rifle opinions from somebody who actually did it. Spoiler, he liked double rifles and conical bullets.

I happen to agree about the Golden Age rifle versus an earlier PA or VA rifle, but it's Jim's company and after his first offering, he's earned the right to put out whatever he chooses in my opinion. I'm still crossing my fingers that it will be a slightly later rifle, but I suspect I'll order one even if it's an early VA, which I suspect is the way that he's leaning.
 
Chambers has many earlier rifle styles covered with his kits, but not all. More importantly, though, is the level of skill it takes to complete a Chambers’ kit versus one of Kibler’s CNC-shaped kits. Most novices could easily turn a Chamber’s kit into a $500 gun with mistakes. From what I have seen and read, there is so little inletting and shaping needed that you would have to be incompetent and overly hasty to ruin one of the Kibler kits.
 
If I wanted to save money and liked the smaller calibers and looks of a SMR, I would not hesitate to get a Kibler, but if I were looking for a similar savings and wanted a larger caliber or different look, then I would go for a Tip Curtis rifle. There is a small amount of assembly and fitting on the Kibler, but the Tip Curtis is put together. The Tip Curtis, may be a little more money, but....it will include extras, such as nose cap, toe plate, and other details, not to mention a lot of labor completed. In the end they both will allow for personal finish on wood and metal.

Just something to think about.
 
certainly agree. Tip provides a good rifle for a very good price. I have not ever bought one from him, came close a couple of years ago when I stopped in his shop. He did not have what I was looking for but I almost left with a different rifle.

On Tips finished rifles I like a nicer finish than what his normally have. However, I get it. If he spent 10-20 more hours cleaning up everything his price would simply be higher.

Fleener
 
I started on my Kibler kit today. I almost falls together. There is very little to do. The kit is fantastic.

One thing I did not see coming, all his kits use a 5/16 ramrod. If I knew this before I ordered, I would have gotten a 36 or 32 cal. I do not want to spear my hand with a broken ramrod. It's an irrational a fear of mine. I have been assured it is fine. A fiberglass ramrod will fix it. I am obsessive about details I don't think it is a real problem.
 
Scota4570 said:
A fiberglass ramrod will fix it. I am obsessive about details I don't think it is a real problem.

My experience with fiberglass ramrods has been very unpleasant. Fiberglass is very abrasive and will wear the muzzle of your rifle in short order. Get steel or brass and a good bore protector. You want your rifle to last a long time, so have a care for your ramrod or it will be a real problem.
 
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