Mike I forgot to add that although you could set up a chunk gun shoot for I suppose any type of ML you want, all the ones in existence that I know of restrict the guns to round ball traditional style rifles. The original shoots were shot with the long rifles common in the South. But the rifles used have evolved over the years. Quite a few still use regular flint and percussion longrifles, but in the quest for greater accuracy the long heavy barreled "chunk gun" has evolved.
As a general rule, these guns have a barrel ranging in length from 42 inches to 5 feet. Calibers vary from .40 to over .60 and I believe some have been as heavy as .75. The stock has straighter lines, in other words, less drop at the butt. Most do not have ramrods or provisions for them. You use a range rod. False muzzles are not allowed.
The sights are open iron, non-adjustable for elevation. If you have a screw adjusted rear sight, forget it. I have seen some with spirit levels behind the front sight.
Most serious shooters will have a cant block fastened to the barrel somewhere near the muzzle. Some say their gun has a "sweet spot" where they like to fasten the block. Some fasten to the barrel with screws, others clamp onto the barrel. This block prevents the barrel from tilting on the chunk and helps with consistency in aiming. There are some fullstock chunk guns and most of these have a portion of the forearm in the shape of a cant block. Shaders are allowed to cover the sights. Some are just short pieces placed over the sights, others cover the full length of the barrel. As was noted earlier, each shooter brings their own chunk. Most are just short pieces of timber or boards nailed together. Some also set sandbags on top. I use sandbags underneath to help level the block. Lately I've seen custom made chunks that are adjustable to compensate for uneven ground. Some of these even have a drawer for tools and levels. Some also have a spirit level built into them.
Ignition is traditional percussion, flintlock, underhammer or mule ear percussion. no inlines! Some shooters also use drop tubes for loading the powder charge.
Now, what I said above covers your basic chunk gun shoot and follows the procedure at the Alvin C. York Memorial Shoot held each year at Pall Mall, TN. All the other shoots I've attended pretty much follow the same rules and restrictions. You could set up a chunk gun match for any type of rifle I suppose, but this is how we do it. I found a book that described a "chunk gun" shoot at Pall Mall that was written in 1922. They fired at the "X" at 2 ranges. If shot from "a chunk" it was 40 yards. If shot offhand, it was 27 yards. They didn't use the same type of sighters we do. It was a piece of charred board with a small sheet of white paper tacked to it. An inverted "V" notch was cut into the center of the bottom margin of the paper. The notch was only 1/2" deep. The turkey shoots were also at two ranges. The first was at a turkey tied to a stake (and allowed to move a couple of feet). This was shot at 150 yds. The second was a turkey staked behind a log with only its head showing. This was at 40 yds.
As you can see, there's a lot to chunk gunning. It's similiar to bench shooting in some ways I guess, only you're lying down. In fact, some of these guns would probably do pretty well in a bench match.
One thing I forgot to add when I was talking about sighters and targets. Unlike regular target shooting, many shooters prefer to have their gun shoot to the left, right, high or low rather than at the center. If you hit the sighter dead center, you can mess up your sight picture by tearing the sighter up. If your group is off to one side, the sighter is left intact. You put your target where the gun is hitting anyway, not where you're aiming.
Sory this was so long, but there's a lot to tell. Give it a try! You don't have to have a full blown chunk gun. (But it helps!)
:thumbsup: