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Just heard that the Oxe-Yoke co. is going out of business immediately, any patch companys out there?

Well, that's interesting...I guess you didn't hear if another outfit was buying them out or you'd have mentioned it.

Several BP companies sell patches under their brand name of course like TC, Traditons, CVA, but I doubt any of them make their own...OxYoke was probably the maker behind the scenes...can't believe some company won't step in and buy it out.
 
Don from the Possible shop told me bout oxe-yoke goin out of business bout 3 weeks ago, He sells Sagebrush patches, They seem like the same .018 as oxe yoke,, I went through 500 so far and got nother 500 commin,, Not sure what I'm gonna do bout the patch lube ,,
 
It's the shotgun lubed felt wads that I will miss most..guess I'll get some felt wads from Ballistic Products and lube them. T/C carries them, but last I bought was pretty steep price wise.
 
It's the shotgun lubed felt wads that I will miss most..guess I'll get some felt wads from Ballistic Products and lube them. T/C carries them, but last I bought was pretty steep price wise.

Here's an alternative at least to consider:

Flintlocks, Inc.
John G. Eder
Nineveh, IN, 46164
317-933-3441

They make all sorts of wads...particularly specialize in what they call Hunter Packs.
 
Not sure what I'm gonna do bout the patch lube ,,

Glad Birddog6 sent me a free sample of his liquid lube and patch grease (the grease looks like it is similiar consistency as Wonder Lube). Haven't tried it yet, hope too soon! He'll send you a free sample too, if you ask him :RO:
 
Isn't Blue and Gray still in business? I have their wads and over cards which work just fine. I would imagine if the don't make patches now, with Ox-Yoke out of the picture, they will very shortly in the future.
 
Isn't Blue and Gray still in business? I have their wads and over cards which work just fine. I would imagine if the don't make patches now, with Ox-Yoke out of the picture, they will very shortly in the future.

Oxyoke bought out Blue & Gray last year
 
Oxyoke bought out Blue & Gray last year

UPDATE FROM OWNER LINDA NORTHLAKE AT OCTOBER COUNTRY

QUOTE:
"Oxyoke has closed their doors. All of us distributors are stooking up on all that we can get. We were hoping that they might lay people off and come back. We don't want to start a panic and hurt their business if they were going to start back up. It doesn't look good. No one will returen calls.
We have moxt patches in stock from OxYoke in. There is no supply of OxYoke wonder wads that I can find. Just Bridger's best. He even made up some 1000 packs for me.

We are stocking Bridger's Best patches and wads. He uses his own lube which is quite good. His prices on patches is less, but Bridger does not have a fast way to lube the wads, so the price on wads is the same.

The places that are going to hurt is T/C Bore butter and T/C #13. Ox-Yoke supplied all of these items to T/C.
There is no #13 available from T/C at this point. I still have a few cases. But no way to get more.

OxYoke suppled all the T/C patches. They are more expensive, but I have some coming. I even brought in CVA patches. I believe there will be a shortage of lubed patches until T/C can find someone to make them in the quanities that they need. T/C says that they will NOT buy patches overseas. They are an American company and they want to stay that way."
 
sounds like they made alot of the lubes we use. They make lehigh lube too. :(
Lehigh..
 
Someone/somebody is going to fill the void. This is too big an industry, don't ya think? :relax:
 
sounds like they made alot of the lubes we use. They make lehigh lube too. :(
Lehigh..

It seems a little strange in this day and age for such a surprise to take place...I thought a company that's headed towards the ditch usually gets bought out assuming there's still a viable market for the products
:shocking:

Besides, I thought I used enough of all their stuff to keep them afloat myself !!
::
 
I am saddened to hear of any ML company going under, but as far as patches are concerned, why does anyone really care?

Just get some strips of all cotton cloth from a source that is repeatable over the long haul and cut at the muzzle. Lube as you prefer. It is so simple that even I can do it.

CS
 
No more bore butter ??!! :: Looks like I'll have to go back to crisco . :cry:

Well, luckily, over the past few years I've gradually built up a reserve...got a case+ of NL1000 large tubes on the shelf, along with 3000+ prelubed pillow ticking patches...hopefully somebody will have that operation in full swing before I run out
:winking:
 
Ya see Stumpy? Ah tol ye we war a gonna get rich, but Youuuuuu says, Oh No. Ah wants ta be a kind guy un shar it with tha wourld so ye writes up this har post:
__________________________________________________________

Here's the latest, most goodest formulation:

2 oz. Beeswax (4 tablespoons)
8 oz. Castor oil (16 tablespoons)
1 oz Murphy's Oil Soap (2 tablespoons)

Through various batches I have arrived at the following proceedure for the best results.

Set the containers you intend to hold the lube out on a sheet of newspaper (I use mint tins that have had the paint scorched off with a propane torch).

Heat beeswax in a soup can set a pot of water. ( I keep my beeswax in a one pound coffee can and measure pot what I need by melting it). Add just enough water so the can does not begin to float (should be just short of the level in the can). Heat the water. In a seperate can, add the castor oil and Murphy's oil soap (cold). Once the beeswax is melted, swap the castor oil can in the pot of water for the beeswax. Add the beeswax . It will clump up. Stir with an ice tea spoon as the mixture heats up. When it fully melts there will be a 'scum' that floats to the top and just won't mix in. Be patient. DO NOT COOK THE MIXTURE. Skim the scum off. Remove the mix from the heat and wipe the water off the outside (so it won't drip into the container when you pour it out). FINAL TOP SECRET STEP: Add a teaspoon of Murphy's Oil Soap and stir vigoursly. This last step makes the lube frothy and smooth - really adds to the appearance; though it doesn't seem to matter to the function of the lube. Clamp the can in the jaws of a vice-grip plier and pour into the waiting tins. Allow to cool a half hour.

MOOSE MARROW
Note: it if is a hinged tin - line t
The witch hazel didn't seem to help in the M.Snot mixture, so I phased it out. It actually caused a lot of coagulation in the thinner, less waxy mix and was hard to get melted evenly. As you note, it's still in the M.Milk. The firmist of the "moose" line is "Moose Marrow" and that has witch hazel still in the mix, also. I figure this for a Mini
 
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