Pack Axe

[buffcreekforge]

I finished another project yesterday. I wanted to build an axe suitable for packing on a trek or walk in camp. I wanted to cut some of the length and weight of a traditional full size axe, but have something more substantial than a belt axe or hatchet. The head of the axe weighs right at 2.5# is 7 inches long and 4 inches across the cutting edge. I made the haft based on examples from museums and Russell's book on trapper accouterments. The handle has a subtle curve as did some of the old examples and is 24 inches long. As always, I appreciate the venue for sharing. I remain your humble servant,

Just Dave :grin:

 

[tenngun]

:thumbsup:

 

[Rifleman1776]

Very nice work. :thumbsup: I can't get a sense of size from the pic. Inclusion of something, like a silver dollar, to give perspective would be helpful.

 

[Black Hand]

Very nice work. :thumbsup: I can't get a sense of size from the pic. Inclusion of something, like a silver dollar, to give perspective would be helpful.

Length of a dollar bill is just over 6 inches and the head is 7 inches in length. Should help with the scale...

 

[BrownBear]

Specs are in pretty close agreement with the "cruising" axes I carried to work for many years in the woods. Plenty big enough and practical for all sorts of jobs. Well done.

 

[stubshaft]

:hatsoff:

 

[Obi-Wan Cannoli]

Really impressive work as always! :hatsoff:

Did you start with a name brand head or forge your own?

 

[Rifleman1776]

Very nice work. :thumbsup: I can't get a sense of size from the pic. Inclusion of something, like a silver dollar, to give perspective would be helpful.

Length of a dollar bill is just over 6 inches and the head is 7 inches in length. Should help with the scale...

...K.... Thanks. :applause:

 

[buffcreekforge]

Forged from mild steel and an old Nicholson file for the bit.

 

[crockett]

How did you fit the bit into the head? What is the primary bevel on the bit? I have a lot of cruising axes and on one I thinned down the bit quite a lot. For its light weight and size it cuts very deep and I use it on soft woods mostly. On an aged hardwood or frozen wood I may want a more blunt taper.
With the short handles I bend over while chopping- to save my feet from a glanced blow.

 

[Black Hand]

It appears a steep bevel would lend itself to chopping while a blunter bevel to splitting.

 

[buffcreekforge]

This axe has a fairly thin body with a thin cutting edge. I don't have an exact angle, I just work until it looks right. I hammer the file edge until it is thin enough to fit into the gap in the axe edge that I left for the bit and drive in the file steel while the axe body is orange hot. Then, flux the joint (20 Mule Team Borax) and back in the forge until it looks like melting butter and a few forge fleas start to come up. On the anvil for many quick, light blows to set the weld. I usually run it back into the forge and repeat just to make a good weld - right? wrong? I don't know - just how I was taught. :grin:

 

[Loyalist Dave]

Um does it keep an edge for a good length of time and does the weld hold?

If the answers are both yes, then you're doing it right, I'd wager. :bow:

Pack axes are one of those things folks don't like to pack, until there's a problem that needs one and one bright fellow chimes in if the group is lucky, saying, "Well I did bring this"..., and then everybody does the :bow:


:wink:
LD

 

[buffcreekforge]

Yes and Yes!

 

[crockett]

I always figured a steel bit makes the best axe because the bit can be tempered a little harder than the rest of the head.

 

[Black Hand]

I always figured a steel bit makes the best axe because the bit can be tempered a little harder than the rest of the head.

Yes - that is what he has done. And it has more to do with the final crystal structure of high vs. low carbon steel. You could make an axe from low-carbon steel, but you would spend more time sharpening and the edge would wear/dull quickly.

 

[Rifleman1776]

I like to watch that 'Forged In Fire' TV show. The bladesmiths are supposedly experienced at what they do. But, about half the time they do not get a good weld. Never tried it, but it sounds easier to talk about than accomplish.

 

[buffcreekforge]

The keys to forge welding is have clean surfaces to weld together, good flux, proper heat, and many light, quick blows to set the weld. You don't need to beat the devil out of the weld to get it to hold, rather many light strikes set the weld.

 

[Black Hand]

Forge-welding different steels together doesn't seem to be commonly done anymore with the availability of inexpensive, quality steel. It's far easier to grab a chunk of steel with the ideal carbon content and beat it into the shape you want...

 

[crockett]

I thought the deal was (I could be wrong ) that you forge weld high carbon for the bit and low carbon for the head. Now heat it up, quench, temper etc. The bit can be made very hard but the head, since there isn't enough carbon, doesn't temper at all.
Question...on forge welding, you really heat up the steel to almost white. I've only forged a few knife blades but the first one I heated to yellow and someone said I burned out the carbon. If you forge weld, do you start with extra material and then grind off the excess, in other words if you do burn off carbon- is it only on the outside?