• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Painting design on a stock.

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
From a Google search on 1700’s paint.
Varnished painting

The oil paint is left to dry for at least a year before a thin coat of clear picture varnish is brushed on. During the seventeenth century artists started making varnish from tree resin dissolved in turpentine. It protects the paint surface and makes it easier to see the colours.Aug 16, 2010
Paints were largely oil based, linseed oil and pigment, although water is mentioned.
 
Not to steal the thread, but this got me thinking about period decoration of guns. Indians liked to stick brass tacks on to rifles they acquired.. is there any record of them painting their stock at all with whatever pigments they would use on their clothing and face? I am completely ignorant of pigments they used for such things, so I wouldn't know where to start looking. If the threads such as this exists, point me in that direction!
 
So I'd paint the stock too, but either way I'd go to the local paint store and buy an oil based paint.

My trade gun is painted with oil based paint. It has proven to be a very weather resistant coating. Don't do Rusoleum, though, get a commercial exterior oil based paint, and use that. I tested Rustoleum and it seemed too brittle and much more easily chipped.

Sorry the focus on my gun photo is messed up...,


Here's one without stain, just varnish and a painted pattern...

View attachment 124217


LD

Wow! That's just awesome! I'd love to know how you painted such beautifully fine thin lines. Very nice work! BTW your comment on quality paint is gospel!
 
Wow! That's just awesome! I'd love to know how you painted such beautifully fine thin lines. Very nice work! BTW your comment on quality paint is gospel!
OH it wasn't me on those patterns.... that's why my tradegun is a solid red color.
Those were done by Clay Smith, as was the blue Carolina gun

LD
 
Nice workmanship Loyalist Dave, looks like your artistic as well. :thumb:
And while we're at it thanks for your help running herd on this forum.
relic shooter
AAAH sorry folks don't want to give the wrong impression... MINE is the solid red, the others are "other repros" from Clay Smith.

I think he uses a very fine camel or perhaps even beaver hair brush.... ME? I'd have to use some sort of "paint pen" and I'm worried about trying it in any case... :confused:

LD
 
AAAH sorry folks don't want to give the wrong impression... MINE is the solid red, the others are "other repros" from Clay Smith.

I think he uses a very fine camel or perhaps even beaver hair brush.... ME? I'd have to use some sort of "paint pen" and I'm worried about trying it in any case... :confused:

LD
I’ll let you know how I make out when I get to that point. I want this kit build to be able to shoot. And while I do care about how it will look, I’ll do my best and,,,, shoot it.
 
Acrylic over oil might present a problem down the road as mentioned. Using a varnish to “hold” the painting on will help but who knows how well, especially with a frequently handled gun.
One way to go would be to seal the oil- stained wood over with a thin application of shellac ( there’s an old axiom: “Shellac sticks to everything and everything sticks to shellac”). Than an over- coat of varnish would be good.
Best way though would be to use artists oil paints I suspect.
I have done some paint work in the past. I agree with the shellac statement. Prep work is the key and a good shellac base is an easy way to go. Then the paint and more shellac. Then I used Minwax as an overcoat. This was a gift and the gun was never hunted so it held on over the years. If the gun is going in the field I would recommend a soft leather sleeve because you have a lot of finish material that could get dinged easily. Overall a nice and fulfilling project. Enjoy the project and the 'prize'.
 
Not to steal the thread, but this got me thinking about period decoration of guns. Indians liked to stick brass tacks on to rifles they acquired.. is there any record of them painting their stock at all with whatever pigments they would use on their clothing and face? I am completely ignorant of pigments they used for such things, so I wouldn't know where to start looking. If the threads such as this exists, point me in that direction!
Some of the Carolina trade guns were done in a medium blue, and we know of one with a floral design
Indians did paint magic symbols on self, equipment, horses, so it’s not inconceivable they painted on already finished surfaces and repainted as it wore off.
They weren’t ‘gun nuts’ and lived in a temporary world. I doubt if they would have been bothered by our ideas of beauty on a gun, or longevity for a decoration
Historically white mens guns tended to be in plain wood, but painted stocks are known.
 
After cresting a gazillion arrows with acrylic paint here is how I do it; I stain with alcohol based dye, put two coats of Tru-oil over the stain, apply the cresting and put 3 or 4 light coats of Tru-oil over the paint after it dries.

The paint never smears or comes off, 20 years later and lots of shooting the cresting looks like I did it yesterday.

As for painting a gunstock, it is all about using compatible materials.

View attachment 124199
Beautiful job on those arrows.
 
My unmentionable target build (think Oct 22) I had put on a few coats of black minwax stain (ebony) on an unfinished Boyds laminate stock . Did some network magic for a guy who does airbrush art, he did some nice flames all up and down the stock for me

While it isnt a woods gun it isnt babied at the range and has held up for 6 years now just fine

The key will be proper prep and using paint and top coat/sealer that is compatible with any prior treatment the wood has had
 
Acrylic over oil might present a problem down the road as mentioned. Using a varnish to “hold” the painting on will help but who knows how well, especially with a frequently handled gun.
One way to go would be to seal the oil- stained wood over with a thin application of shellac ( there’s an old axiom: “Shellac sticks to everything and everything sticks to shellac”). Than an over- coat of varnish would be good.
Best way though would be to use artists oil paints I suspect.
Shellac dries to a yellowish tint so might really change the color of the paint.
 
I’m using LMF stain, sealer and finish. I’m going to stain to my desired color, let dry well, paint, seal, and finish. I guess if it doesn’t work out, back to the sand paper.
 
After cresting a gazillion arrows with acrylic paint here is how I do it; I stain with alcohol based dye, put two coats of Tru-oil over the stain, apply the cresting and put 3 or 4 light coats of Tru-oil over the paint after it dries.

The paint never smears or comes off, 20 years later and lots of shooting the cresting looks like I did it yesterday.

As for painting a gunstock, it is all about using compatible materials.

View attachment 124199
Those arrows are beautiful, do you make your own bows too?
 
AAAH sorry folks don't want to give the wrong impression... MINE is the solid red, the others are "other repros" from Clay Smith.

I think he uses a very fine camel or perhaps even beaver hair brush.... ME? I'd have to use some sort of "paint pen" and I'm worried about trying it in any case... :confused:

LD
The vines and flowers on Clay’s trade guns are done in India ink with a fine brush.
Jay
 
my wife wants to put a turquoise flower

Just a thought: I've purchased a small/flat piece of jewelery ( like a charm for a charm bracelet or a cufflink) with an adornment on it, then inletted it into the center of the cheekpiece.

I usually run across them at flea markets.....

It would be an interesting hunt for one with a flower she likes.

These are about the size of a US Dime

cOrXYlAl.jpg


This one's a bit larger (no, I didn't do the scrim - I bought it)

iH403DUl.jpg
 
Last edited:
Remember, shellac often dries yellow so it can dramatically change the color of your paint.
Shellac is available in flakes with colors ranging from Garnet to Super Blond. I buy it in flake form not only to insure there’s no wax but to also control the “cut” of the liquid. It’s an excellent sanding sealer.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top