Pair of Belgian 1860 Army’s

[Zulch]

Must be something going on I'm not hip to. I for one have learned a lot from 45D and have been motivated to seek further information as a result in an area which I am relatively new to, C&B revolvers. Nobody is born knowing this stuff and I appreciate hands on real world experience.
Keep em coming Mike!
Robby

Robby, I couldn't agree more. Here you have a person who is a professional gunsmith sharing his experience and processes of repair in detail on this forum, so well, that a person with some good mechanical skills could possibly even make their good revolver even better. Win win situation. Thank you for your posts Mike!!

 

[Andrewmtnman]

Stantheman86, crazy ain't it!!!! Lol

Mike, I’m thinking I should tighten the arbor first. It is ever so slightly loose. In the pic you’ll see what looks like a pin perpendicular to the arbor on top and then a smaller one parallel with the arbor where it comes through the back of the frame. Is this common or do you think it was repaired already? The later one almost looks like it’s just a prick punch mark on the joint.

 

[45D]

Mike, I’m thinking I should tighten the arbor first. It is ever so slightly loose. In the pic you’ll see what looks like a pin perpendicular to the arbor on top and then a smaller one parallel with the arbor where it comes through the back of the frame. Is this common or do you think it was repaired already? The later one almost looks like it’s just a prick punch mark on the joint.

Looks like an attempted repair. Normally the small parallel pin is at 12 o'clock but it really doesn't matter, that would be the factory locking pin. The bigger vert. pin looks to be the "repair". Drill it out and the small pin. The arbor will then be free to unscrew. Curious to see how far the vert. pin goes . . .
Anyway, the correct way to tighten the arbor is to upset the material ( in 4 places and doesn't take much) at the shoulder that comes into contact with the frame/breach. This will cause interference and allow you torque it in place ( your pin local will be the alignment mark). If you go too far and have to back it up, remove it and upset material again. You want a good "crush " fit so check the wedge slot alignment by installing barrel and sighting.
When you're satisfied, install the barrel and cylinder, drive the wedge in ( this will "re-orient" the arbor) then install a new oversized staking pin. Barrel will usually remove pretty easily by hand. I'll put up some pics of different steps.

Mike

 

[45D]

Staking pin drilled out.

Upset material at the shoulder

After installing the arbor, check depth of staking pin hole and mark on new ( oversized) pin material. Grind a "break off" and drive the pin in.

Now you can file and finish to contour.

Done!!

Mike

 

[45D]

Oh, no need for any thread-locker! After the arbor is torqued and staked, it ain't going anywhere!! Staking material should be mild steel.

Mike

 

[Andrewmtnman]

Thanks for all the good pics. So the hole on top, closer to the cylinder, is for what? A set screw? Or another pin? It appears threaded. The hole drilled for the pin is about half in the arbor and half in the frame?

 

[Zulch]

Mike, That is an awesome pictorial display of the method that you use.

 

[45D]

Thanks for all the good pics. So the hole on top, closer to the cylinder, is for what? A set screw? Or another pin? It appears threaded. The hole drilled for the pin is about half in the arbor and half in the frame?

You are most welcome! The hole at the top is for installing a cap post. And yes, the staking hole should be roughly half its circumference outside the arbor hole. ( since it's a factory hole, should be just a replacement thing )

Mike

 

[Kevin Bennett]

Those are nice pistols. I just repaired and shot one. They feel and look great and you have TWO! Have you shot them?

I have 2, etched.