pan powder amounts

[MJMarkey]

I use one of those brass primers. I think it throws a 3 grain charge and I usually click it twice, with 4f primer. Works good for me.

 

[Baxter]

As I said, I am shooting from a bench, still trying to find as near perfect a load as I can, I don't hunt anymore so I'm not up and moving about so priming doesn't get moved about. No doubt, if and when I get off the bench for offhand I will use more priming. I am using a brass priming measure with spring-loaded valve that dispenses only as the valve is depressed and liking it less every time I use it - weak and shaky fingers - age related - makes that priming tool tedious to use so maybe my "frugality" is mostly that priming tool use. baxter

 

[Erzulis boat]

This is kinda funny running into this post.

I learned how to prime my pan from this very forum when I joined some years ago.

1/3 pan to the "outside" is what was considered the proper way.

Fast forward- I just got back into the forum after years off from participation, and the "proper" way is to stuff the thing!

What this tells me, is that it all hinges on the sparks the Lock throws down. It's like motor oil arguments on motorcycle forums, everybody has an opinion................because they all work!

Ask a real cut and dry question, and there are 1 or 2 replies. :grin:

 

[Larry Pletcher]

I have a small brass priming flask with a plunger type spout. I think it dispenses about 3 grains of 4f powder. That seems to work very well. I do as one of our members, Larry Pletcher, suggested and bank the powder against the hole side of the pan with some of the charge spread in the bottom of the pan to catch the sparks. When I do it this way, I get an instantaneous ignition that seems as fast as a percussion lock.

You can find Larry's articles at www.blackpowdermag.com

Bill,
I've been hacked. The articles you refer to are unavailable right now. We will be moving to a new host and starting again. Most of the magazine articles, and important tests are saved, so I can replace most of it. It will take time but I think it will work out. My son is very good with code, and without him I'd be down a long time.

Regards,
PLetch

 

[Stumpkiller]

That stinks! Speedy recovery. :thumbsup:

 

[Rifleman1776]

I use one of those brass spring loaded primer thingys, just like the real mountain men did. :wink:
It throws 2-3 grains and I just leave a thin line of prime across the bottom of the pan. Works for me.

 

[Baxter]

:thumbsup: baxter

 

[tenngun]

So neat, so many different ways. I prime to just to the level of the bottom of the touch hole. Tap the lock with my knuckle and snap the steel shut. I feel like my ignition is right at trigger pull. I've been shooting flinters for better then 35 years So I guess I'm just used to it. The question was how full to fill it? What ever you find workable. And I stand with Dan here...when hunting to much beats too little.

 

[58CAL]

One thing at a time, I use 2gr 4f for priming the reason I know that is the tool I use to do it with drops the same amount every time and I've weighed the charges. Since its the heat of the prime igniting and not the flame over priming can lead to slower ignition times. I hunt with my flint and don't care where the prime goes in the pan as its going to move around as I move thru the woods anyhow. As for the quality of locks made today versus those made a few hundred years ago I have to say that the best of today are better than the best of latter years but only because of the precision machinery available today that wasn't back then. As for lesser quality the same is true now as it was then. You can't get more than you pay for. Kinda like buying oats. FRJ

 

[Rifleman1776]

I have to say that the best of today are better than the best of latter years but only because of the precision machinery available today that wasn't back then.

Yer entitled to yer opinion. But I have handled several locks from way-way back in the day and am here to tell you I got all aquiver when I held and examined those beauties. The difference between precision machinery of today and precision in making things back then was time. Wouldn't surprise me if filing a frizzen (hammer) to fit and function perzactly took days. I'm talking custom presentation quality rifle, not later period military.

 

[bpd303]

Yep...hand fitting beats machine made interchangeable parts hands down.

 

[Larry Pletcher]

Yer entitled to yer opinion. But I have handled several locks from way-way back in the day and am here to tell you I got all aquiver when I held and examined those beauties. The difference between precision machinery of today and precision in making things back then was time. Wouldn't surprise me if filing a frizzen (hammer) to fit and function perzactly took days. I'm talking custom presentation quality rifle, not later period military.

I agree. The fastest lock I ever timed was an original Joseph Manton owned by Lynton McKenzie. The second fastest was a Stoudenmyer (sp). Both were built like a watch. I considert the late English flint period as the high water mark in flint production.
Regards,
Pletch