Part? Need a spare bolt....

[Brokennock]

Need a spare lock bolt.

This is the front lock bolt for my Centermark Fusil des Chase,

I would like to get a spare bolt as I am going to attempt to file a rather sizeable notch in this one so I don't have to taper my new ramrod as much to clear it.

Anyone know if a spare bolt like it is available before I spend the rest of my life searching the internet?

Thanks,
Dave

 

[EC121]

Looks like an 8x32. The diameter is right. Go to Lowes or a hardware store and try their thread checker or nut selection. Track has all sizes of lock bolts. Try it in your 8x32 die nut. If you don't have tap and die set, buy one while you are at the store wondering what size you need..

 

[Brokennock]

Looks like an 8x32. The diameter is right. Go to Lowes or a hardware store and try their thread checker or nut selection. Track has all sizes of lock bolts. Try it in your 8x32 die nut. If you don't have tap and die set, buy one while you are at the store wondering what size you need..

I was mostly wondering about the head style. We have a fastener store here that carries an amazing array of bolts, screws, and other fasteners,,,, basically if it connects two or more things together they have it,,,, except nails. They don't have one with that head.

Also wondering if anyone makes one that has a thicker bolt body then steps down to that diameter for the threaded section. Would give me more meat to work with for cutting my notch.

 

[EC121]

Order a 10x32 lock bolt with that head and take your newly purchased tap and die set and cut it down to 8x32 at the threads. Track sells a bolt with that head or you can turn one down to that shape with a drill and file(redneck lathe). Order two. One to learn on and one to use. I've done it many times on my builds. You could also change out the back bolt to match whatever you can get at the store for the front bolt. No one will ever know.

 

[necchi]

How about this one?
https://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/853/1/BOLT-L-8-DXThere's actually 3 pages with over 20 offerings, , maybe one of the "blanks" will work for ya?
https://www.trackofthewolf.com/list/Item.aspx/853/1
As long as yer gonna pay shipping, a few extra bucks for different options might be a good idea,,

 

[Pete G]

What NECCHI said.....

 

[Notchy Bob]

I think that first bolt linked in @necchi 's post is about as close as you're going to get. Maybe get two extra ones, and replace both the front and rear lock bolts so they match. That head shape is most similar to a modern "truss head" screw, but most commercial fastener companies only have these with modern slots or hex sockets. The one from Track looks pretty good, to me. Once you get it fitted, you can fire blue it with a propane torch.

I would have some reservations about filing a notch in a #8 bolt, though. You just don't have that much metal to work with. Granted, lock bolts should not be subjected to much torque or shear, but still, a #8 bolt is really skinny to start with. I think most of the bolts in my guns are #10, except the military pieces, which are #12. If it were me, I would taper the ramrod. If the ramrod can't be tapered because of a fitting on the end, I would make a new one, taper the end and install a smaller or tapered ferrule. I've done this for several guns, at least three that I can think of. But, you're not me, and I respect your choice.

You might also want to call the Log Cabin Shop in Lodi, Ohio. I think they used to carry Centermark guns, and they knew the people who made them. You might ask if they have parts, or if they could get you in touch with people who could possibly have them.

Good luck to you, in any event.

Notchy Bob

 

[Notchy Bob]

Duplicate post. Moderators, please delete.

Notchy Bob

 

[Brokennock]

Thanks folks. I was looking at that flanged head bolt on Track of The Wolf, wasn't sure if anyone knew of a place to get an exact match.

would taper the ramrod. If the ramrod can't be tapered because of a fitting on the end, I would make a new one, taper the end and install a smaller or tapered ferrule

I too have reservations about putting a notch in such a thin bolt. The ramrod is already "tapered" in a way. It is a skinny 5/16" rod with a few inches of the end that goes in the gun shaved flat to clear the bolt. This means it will only enter the gun one way.
Not sure if these pics do it justice,

The end is getting pretty chewed up, wasn't in great shape when I got the gun many years ago.
I am in the process of making a couple new rods. I am starting with a 5/16" blank as that will get me a new rod the quickest. I was hoping that by putting a small notch in the bolt, that I won't have to go to the extreme of having to have the flat sided taper. I will use the stock brass tip on the other end.
I also have one of the thickest blanks Track sells, hoping to make one that has the flared wooden fat end, tapering to fit through the thimbles, then tapering some more to clear the bolt. This will take time to do, and I'd like to get the bolt clearance end done on the skinny one 1st for practice and so I know how long I have to make the tapered section.

I will also call Log Cabin shop, thanks.

 

[Sidney Smith]

Muzzle loader builders supply, Track of the Wolf, all carry lock bolts. Order several as they're cheap.

 

[Notchy Bob]

@Brokennock , I now better understand what you're up against. The pictures tell the story. As mentioned, some degree of impingement is not uncommon, but I think that's about the worst I have seen.

If the end of your ramrod is only 5/16", and they still had to shave that much off, there must be at least half the diameter of the lock bolt in the ramrod channel. I would strongly consider just leaving the front lock bolt out altogether. I have a flintlock fowling piece with only one lock bolt, and there have been no problems with the lock shifting, even with the big, L&R Queen Anne lock. It hasn't budged. Your lock mortise appears snug, so I think it would take a lot of shooting for the lock to shift even the least little bit. One bolt would probably work fine for you, with a "dummy" wood screw in the front hole of the sideplate for appearance's sake. If the empty bolt hole in the lock plate would bother you, it could be plugged with a short section of a screw.

I know I suggested tapering the rod, but I did not know at that time it would need that much! Simply leaving out that front lock bolt should solve the impingement problem and enable you to have a ramrod of adequate diameter.

Good luck with it!

Notchy Bob

 

[Brokennock]

@Brokennock , I now better understand what you're up against. The pictures tell the story. As mentioned, some degree of impingement is not uncommon, but I think that's about the worst I have seen.

If the end of your ramrod is only 5/16", and they still had to shave that much off, there must be at least half the diameter of the lock bolt in the ramrod channel. I would strongly consider just leaving the front lock bolt out altogether. I have a flintlock fowling piece with only one lock bolt, and there have been no problems with the lock shifting, even with the big, L&R Queen Anne lock. It hasn't budged. Your lock mortise appears snug, so I think it would take a lot of shooting for the lock to shift even the least little bit. One bolt would probably work fine for you, with a "dummy" wood screw in the front hole of the sideplate for appearance's sake. If the empty bolt hole in the lock plate would bother you, it could be plugged with a short section of a screw.

I know I suggested tapering the rod, but I did not know at that time it would need that much! Simply leaving out that front lock bolt should solve the impingement problem and enable you to have a ramrod of adequate diameter.

Good luck with it!

Notchy Bob

I have considered leaving the bolt out. Actually, wad thinking of cutting the threaded portion of a similar bolt off and threading it into the lock plate with some green loc-tite (I forget the number but it is pretty much permanent without the application of a lot of heat) and using that to both fill the hole and maintain the locks alignment. I agree it would most likely be fine without it, but seems an easy insurance policy.
Then cutting the head end shorter and soldering the head to the side plate. This would keep the side plate lined up in position and maintain the look of having a proper front lock bolt.

 

[Flint62Smoothie]

I don't see a flanged head being correct for any early French alarm ... regardless of what you do to it.

 

[necchi]

I don't see a flanged head being correct for any early French alarm ... regardless of what you do to it.

Exactly! why not re-tap the lock plate and go with a bigger bolt?
Who say's the bolt that's in there is the exact one that needs to be there?
With a larger bolt, it can be "indexted" so that it's snug enough to hold the plate in position and still allow free passage of the rod.
No need to clear the entire bolt circumference,, just one side of it,,
The slot in the screw is the timing mark.

 

[Brokennock]

I don't see a flanged head being correct for any early French alarm ... regardless of what you do to it.

Exactly! why not re-tap the lock plate and go with a bigger bolt?
Who say's the bolt that's in there is the exact one that needs to be there?
With a larger bolt, it can be "indexted" so that it's snug enough to hold the plate in position and still allow free passage of the rod.
No need to clear the entire bolt circumference,, just one side of it,,
The slot in the screw is the timing mark.

Any suggestions as to which of the various bolts available might be best?

 

[ord sgt]

There is not much strain on either lock bolt. So there is no reason to worry about notching the front bolt for ram rod clearance. Most sidelock rifles only have one lock bolt, at least mine do. Only one rifle has two lock bolts. I did have to notch the front bolt for ram rod clearance. That bolt is not removed from the stock during cleaning. I back out the front bolt but leave it in the stock. Rear bolt is removed.

 

[Capt. Jas.]

I would turn a waist on the lock nail in lieu of a notch and put a 1/4" threaded tip on the ramrod about 1.75" long

 

[Brokennock]

I would turn a waist on the lock nail in lieu of a notch and put a 1/4" threaded tip on the ramrod about 1.75" long

I love this idea. It has gone through my head as I look at some of the tapered rod ends people have made. Any source for one that skinny?

I am more likely to do this when I finally thin and taper the fat rod blank. A spring worm works fine on this set up as I drilled and tapped the brass tip a long time ago to take screw in accessories,

 

[Springerpanhead]

Need a spare lock bolt.
View attachment 90812View attachment 90813View attachment 90814
This is the front lock bolt for my Centermark Fusil des Chase,
View attachment 90815
I would like to get a spare bolt as I am going to attempt to file a rather sizeable notch in this one so I don't have to taper my new ramrod as much to clear it.

Anyone know if a spare bolt like it is available before I spend the rest of my life searching the internet?

Thanks,
Dave

Your local machine shop can make one

 

[Artificer]

Need a spare lock bolt.
View attachment 90812View attachment 90813View attachment 90814
This is the front lock bolt for my Centermark Fusil des Chase,
View attachment 90815
I would like to get a spare bolt as I am going to attempt to file a rather sizeable notch in this one so I don't have to taper my new ramrod as much to clear it.

Anyone know if a spare bolt like it is available before I spend the rest of my life searching the internet?

Thanks,
Dave

Dave,

The diameter of the bolt seems to agree with a Number 8 bolt, but have you actually checked it to see if the threads are inch pattern or metric? If you don't have a gage to check it, normally Home Depot or Lowes has a thread gage you can use to check it.

Gus