Patch lube for round ball shooting..........Lawdy.

[ETipp]

Started using it in our shop as a leather dressing back about 1991, then the original manufacturer stopped making it. It has been back in production for a number of years, 15 years or so, under new ownership. Back in the early days, we even sold a few cases to the USMC for use as it was originally designed, as a boot dressing during cold weather training.

Found it.

 

[William Hagewood]

I have read of shooters using a combination of Murphy Oil Soap, rubbing alcohol and hydrogen peroxide. I am not sure of the ratios

 

[1BadDart]

I have read of shooters using a combination of Murphy Oil Soap, rubbing alcohol and hydrogen peroxide. I am not sure of the ratios

I use this for cleaning, not patch lube, 1 part rubbing alcohol, 1 part peroxide and 1/2 part Murphy's Oil Soap. It works well for me.

 

[William Hagewood]

Ok, thanks. I am mistaken

 

[Mad L]

I have read of shooters using a combination of Murphy Oil Soap, rubbing alcohol and hydrogen peroxide. I am not sure of the ratios

I was told 1/3, 1/3, 1/3 and yes it's a good cleaner but I have been warned Not to let it get on bluing...I stopped using it.

 

[Omega Vision]

October Country bumbling bear grease lubed Daisy Ticking patches.​

Google Search it.

 

[TDM]

Well, I’ve read just about every type of patch lube but KY jelly. Don’t need to hear if you tried that.

 

[Col_Houston]

Been a long time since I shot patch and RB, and actually, that's all I really wanted to shoot. However, after owning a few TC ML rifles that did not play well with RB, I took the route of conical bullets. They have served me well overall. Took a lot of critters with them. But my heart is in shooting RB.

With that said, and before anyone makes the comment of "whatever your rifle likes best" or something along those lines, I am well aware of how some rifles prefer different recipes. What I am looking for is an overall patch lube, or a good starting point, if you will. The only lube I have ever used, to the best of my memory, was either Bore Butter or whatever some commercial patches were lubed with.

Reason for inquiring on this is simple. From my research I have found about a million different patch lubes that people swear by. From homemade to commercial. Its enough to make anyone's head spin. And yes, I have been taking notes.

Accuracy aside, there are other reasons why so many claim they like this or that lube better. Many swear some lubes will dirty up the barrels more than others. Yet many will say just the opposite. Some claim weather conditions is a factor. Some do not using spit due to it putting moisture down the barrel. Some use a wad on top of the powder due to concerns of the lube soaking into the powder. There are other reasons people site.

Moving along, I will certainly make my own patch lube if I know of a good starting point. If there's a commercial lube that is pretty darn good in many aspects, as well as many people have had good results with, then so be it.

Just looking for a general consensus on an overall good patch lube that has served many well in the past.

Oh, one last thing to note. I will be shooting a Crocket Squirrel rifle and a .54 Lyman Great Plains rifle.

Thank you.

If that Crockett rifle is a .32 like mine, it’ll do you good to swab between shots. Just a tiny bit of fowling can make it really hard to get that little pill down that barrel.

 

[Tyler L]

....

So what kind of beeswax do you use and where to get it? I did a net search and there's different types. I suppose its pure beeswax?


Thanks for the info.

Short answer:
I've not had to buy beeswax (I keep my own bees), but Mann Lake Ltd. and Dadant & Sons are well respected. Because they serve the beekeeping industry, their prices may be higher than other sources, however.

Long answer:
For lube purposes, any beeswax will work. When the wax comb is in the hive, the bees track dust (and pollen) all over eventually turning the wax nearly black. When the black comb is melted, it comes out brown. Brand new fresh wax comb is nearly white, and when melted it is also nearly white. So, white wax is going to cost more than yellow wax, which in turn will cost more than the brown wax. Functionally, the color will make no difference. If you can find some local beekeepers (there may be an area club), they may be willing to sell you some darker wax at a good price.

I should mention that there is a problem with adulterated beeswax, synthetic beeswax, and pesticide-contaminated beeswax being dumped on the market so finding trustworthy vendors is worth it.

 

[Pilgrim]

Short answer:
I've not had to buy beeswax (I keep my own bees), but Mann Lake Ltd. and Dadant & Sons are well respected. Because they serve the beekeeping industry, their prices may be higher than other sources, however.

Long answer:
For lube purposes, any beeswax will work. When the wax comb is in the hive, the bees track dust (and pollen) all over eventually turning the wax nearly black. When the black comb is melted, it comes out brown. Brand new fresh wax comb is nearly white, and when melted it is also nearly white. So, white wax is going to cost more than yellow wax, which in turn will cost more than the brown wax. Functionally, the color will make no difference. If you can find some local beekeepers (there may be an area club), they may be willing to sell you some darker wax at a good price.

I should mention that there is a problem with adulterated beeswax, synthetic beeswax, and pesticide-contaminated beeswax being dumped on the market so finding trustworthy vendors is worth it.

This fellow beekeeper agrees. Great post.

 

[TDM]

This fellow beekeeper agrees. Great post.

I’m a beekeeper too. All wild caught and natural.

 

[ETipp]

Short answer:
I've not had to buy beeswax (I keep my own bees), but Mann Lake Ltd. and Dadant & Sons are well respected. Because they serve the beekeeping industry, their prices may be higher than other sources, however.

Long answer:
For lube purposes, any beeswax will work. When the wax comb is in the hive, the bees track dust (and pollen) all over eventually turning the wax nearly black. When the black comb is melted, it comes out brown. Brand new fresh wax comb is nearly white, and when melted it is also nearly white. So, white wax is going to cost more than yellow wax, which in turn will cost more than the brown wax. Functionally, the color will make no difference. If you can find some local beekeepers (there may be an area club), they may be willing to sell you some darker wax at a good price.

I should mention that there is a problem with adulterated beeswax, synthetic beeswax, and pesticide-contaminated beeswax being dumped on the market so finding trustworthy vendors is worth it.

Thank you for the information.

Your last sentence had been my concern. However, lucky for me, I just found some beeswax from a friend that I didn't know was a beekeeper. He is also a big time ML fella.

 

[sj_anderson62]

If I don't use spit patch, I use Foggy Mountain's Bearguard leather dressing. All natural, made from bear fat and beeswax. You can also use it for a bullet lube. For patches, just pass the patch across the dressing or drag your patching strip across the surface. If you decide to try it, just make sure you buy the "Original" with no pigment as they do make it in brown and black.

View attachment 191726

I’ve used something similar for over two decades. Bumbling Bear grease. Basically bear fat and beeswax as well. For a wet lube, I’m down to my last two bottles of Lehigh Lube. When it’s gone, I’ll stick with bear grease. I do swab with Murphy’s, water, and alcohol between shots.

 

[4570govt]

I use Murphys oil soap and alcohol mixed 50-50 as a patch lube. Can fire 15 to 20 shots without wiping .

 

[ETipp]

I use Murphys oil soap and alcohol mixed 50-50 as a patch lube. Can fire 15 to 20 shots without wiping .

Accuracy as opposed to other patch lubes you have tried?

 

[Greenjoytj]

We call the goop we put on our round ball patches “patch lube” but is lubing really the purpose of the stuff we put on our patches?

The dry patch system works good but there is so little oil on those patches you could hardly say it actually lubing the rifle barrel it’s entire length while going down or back up.

More likely the dry lube system works because it’s adding some resistance to the PRB passage out the bore.
The dry lube system relies on wiping between shots for hard fouling control.
It’s known that too slick or slippery a lube will cause accuracy problems.

So I believe the “patch lube” purpose isn’t to lube, rather it’s for applying a substance that will make and keep the hard fouling soft. Soft enough to allow the next PRB to be rammed down the bore with relative ease without having to resort to using a ball thats too small.
The small under size ball is a compromise that masks the problem of difficult loading caused by hard fouling.
Fouling made and kept hard by lack of an inadequate supply of a softening agent which is the lube wax/grease/oil formulas we use as the patch lube.

In the black powder cartridge world, grease cookies are often used in the large rifles cases to supply adequate fouling softening.

So maybe “patch lube“ should be re-named to “fouling softener”.
The formulation of such concoctions need to supply adequate wetting to ensure the fouling stays soft in all temperature conditions weather wise and barrel temperature like during a range session.

If the fouling is made soft it will be easy to push it all down with a closely fitted PRB combination simulating the bore wipe done post shot in the dry lube system.

 

[French Colonial]

We call the goop we put on our round ball patches “patch lube” but is lubing really the purpose of the stuff we put on our patches?

The dry patch system works good but there is so little oil on those patches you could hardly say it actually lubing the rifle barrel it’s entire length while going down or back up.

More likely the dry lube system works because it’s adding some resistance to the PRB passage out the bore.
The dry lube system relies on wiping between shots for hard fouling control.
It’s known that too slick or slippery a lube will cause accuracy problems.

So I believe the “patch lube” purpose isn’t to lube, rather it’s for applying a substance that will make and keep the hard fouling soft. Soft enough to allow the next PRB to be rammed down the bore with relative ease without having to resort to using a ball thats too small.
The small under size ball is a compromise that masks the problem of difficult loading caused by hard fouling.
Fouling made and kept hard by lack of an inadequate supply of a softening agent which is the lube wax/grease/oil formulas we use as the patch lube.

In the black powder cartridge world, grease cookies are often used in the large rifles cases to supply adequate fouling softening.

So maybe “patch lube“ should be re-named to “fouling softener”.
The formulation of such concoctions need to supply adequate wetting to ensure the fouling stays soft in all temperature conditions weather wise and barrel temperature like during a range session.

If the fouling is made soft it will be easy to push it all down with a closely fitted PRB combination simulating the bore wipe done post shot in the dry lube system.

I like your thinking and agree that one of the most important functions is keeping the fouling soft.

Being a traditionalist, I reject any method that requires wiping between shots or I cannot use loading from the pouch.

 

[kh0456]

I have read of shooters using a combination of Murphy Oil Soap, rubbing alcohol and hydrogen peroxide. I am not sure of the ratios

this is what I use for both cleaning and patch lube. Been using it for years and works great for both. i saw someone post about it doing something to blueing? My rifles are all browned but im not sure if that matters. Anyway I’ve never had an issue with it doing anything to the finish.

 

[longcruise]

Being a traditionalist, I reject any method that requires wiping between shots or I cannot use loading from the pouch.

Not sure how wiping between shots is not traditional??

 

[French Colonial]

Not sure how wiping between shots is not traditional??

Never seen any reference to it in any period documents. If it is traditional please show some documentation regarding its use.

If they did not do it in colonial times why should I?