Patch lube for round ball shooting..........Lawdy.

[longcruise]

Like the not written fact that the Vikings knew how to navigate with a magnetic needle or stone afloat in a bucket!

Yes, there are those in the reenactment side of the sport who are willing to manufacture facts to suit their purpose.

 

[Snapshot in Norway]

Yes, there are those in the reenactment side of the sport who are willing to manufacture facts to suit their purpose.

My guess is we will newer know it all...! A good thing is to stick to facts when there is facts to be found..!

 

[Dave Markowitz]

Been looking for the Lehigh valley lube. It is the formula I have had the best results with, even got some brag`n rights back in 2004 at Friendship using that stuff. I knew that Shenendoah is a good copy. But as I am in Norway it is to much of a hassle to to get some of that stuff over the big ocean. I probably stick to spit for now!

Both Lehigh Valley and Shenandoah are no longer made. The current version is Mr. Flintlock.

https://mrflintlock.com/
I have found that it allows me to shoot 20 shots without wiping. For this reason I've been using it when shooting woods walks. The last shot loads as easily as the first so I think I could go for at least another 20. It also works as a bore cleaner.

 

[mtfishn]

Lots of good thoughts here. I been using spit alone for near 30years for target use and have won events at Nationals and set some local event records using it in my .45 cal. Rifle. I shoot only about 40gr FFF for most competition (60 at 100yds). The light charge helps reduce fouling. Years ago my wife and I shared this rifle in competition so we would shoot 70-120 rounds in an afternoon.....all with spit and no wiping between shots.

 

[Curtis H]

Several people have mentioned go-Jo. It works well for me also,

 

[yellowhammer]

Hoppes #9 Black Powder Solvent and Patch Lube , not to be confused with the standard Hoppes #9 solvent/cleaner.
Pillow ticking, roundball .45 caliber. I've tried most of what's been posted here and the Hoppes #9 BP solvent /patch lube works the best for me.
YMMV.

View attachment 204004

Have they quit making that? It's not on their web site. This is not the same stuff, is it: link

 

[Dave Markowitz]

Have they quit making that? It's not on their web site. This is not the same stuff, is it: link

https://www.hoppes.com/cleaners-and-lubricants/traditional-hoppes-9/no.-9-black-powder/HO-999.html
At the bottom of the page there is a link to the Safety Data Sheet which is titled for No.9 Plus, which is what it was called for decades.

I've recently bought bottles from Midway and The Possible Shop.

Edit: According to the SDS, it contains kerosene, among other things. Folks including myself have been using No.9 Plus as a patch lube for decades. So much for "petroleum products in the bore are bad."

 

[Stumpkiller]

Did some research and putzing on lubes a few years back (15?) and came up with these:

Moose Juice
A general purpose blackpowder solvent and liquid patch lube. Shake well before using. Can be allowed to dry on dipped patching for a dry lube dry flat on waxed paper & dip twice for best saturation). Add ingredients in the following order and shake well after each is added.
Isopropyl Alcohol (91%) 8 oz.
Castor Oil 3 oz.
Murphys Oil Soap 1 oz.
Witch Hazel 4 oz.
Water (non-chlorinated) 16 oz.

I dip patching strips in this twive and dry them flat on waxed paper between dips. Keeps long term in ZipLoc baggies. (Or waxed deerskin pouches).

Moose Snot
A premium multi-shot between wiping (10+) patch lube stable over a wide temperature range. SPECIFICALLY designed for use of patched round balls in a loading block.
Beeswax 2 oz.
Castor Oil 8 oz.
Murphy’s Oil Soap 1 oz.

Heat beeswax in a soup can set a pot of water. ( A double-boiler. I keep my beeswax in a one pound coffee can and measure out what I need by melting it and pouring it into measuring cups). Add just enough water to the pot so that the inner can does not begin to float (should be just short of the lube level in the can). Heat the water to a low boil. In a separate can, add the castor oil and Murphy's oil soap (cold). Once the beeswax is melted, swap the castor oil can in the pot of water for the beeswax. Add the beeswax to the oils. It will clump up. Stir with an ice tea spoon as the mixture heats up. When it fully melts there will often be a scum that floats to the top and just won't mix in. Be patient. DO NOT COOK THE MIXTURE. Once the solids are dissolved there is no need to heat further. Skim the scum off. Remove the mix from the heat and wipe the water off the outside (so it won't drip into the container when you pour it out). FINAL TOP SECRET STEP: Add a generous teaspoon of Murphy’s Oil Soap and stir vigorously. This last step makes the lube frothy, smooth and more smearable - really adds to the appearance; though it doesn't seem to matter to the function of the lube. Clamp the can in the jaws of a vice-grip pliers and pour into the waiting tins. Allow to cool a half hour.

Note: it if is a hinged tin - line the edge that has the hinges with a strip of aluminum foil so it doesn't ooze out before it cools.

These recipes are intended for patch lubrication and black powder residue solvent purposes only. They possess some protective properties but should not be relied on as the sole method of metal protection. A penetrating oil or rust preventative product, such as Birchwood Casey Sheath, is highly recommended for storage between shooting.

 

[Mike in FL]

I am finding less and less time to do things I would like, like make lube. Now I just buy them pre-lubed, as well as the lived wads that go over powder. Never had an issue with spoiled powder.

 

[Pvt.Hardtack]

I tried the spit patching routine before and just plain don't like the idea of sticking cloth in my mouth. Not only do I not like the texture but not knowing what the fabric was treated with, bothers me also. In the old period, there was not much concern about germs and such. Who knew? Marlon Brando died from placing cotton in his mouth for the movie, The Godfather. The cotton had arsenic in it which was put in there in the make up of it. Nope, nothing but food goes in this old child's mouth.

I understand that however when I buy a large piece of pillow ticking from a fabric store I always wash it first otherwise it's hard for the patch lube to absorb. Most mass produced fabric regardless of what it's made of has a coating or whatever is in the fabric when made that needs to be washed out, not rinsed but washed out and let dry. It always worked for me. YMMV but I doubt it.

 

[Pvt.Hardtack]

The Hoppes #9 BP is still available.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3127375534...oadzm/8O1pcZKXZT5v2+yVYTE=|tkp:Bk9SR6T3sZ7BYg

 

[Bad Karma]

https://www.hoppes.com/cleaners-and-lubricants/traditional-hoppes-9/no.-9-black-powder/HO-999.html
At the bottom of the page there is a link to the Safety Data Sheet which is titled for No.9 Plus, which is what it was called for decades.

I've recently bought bottles from Midway and The Possible Shop.

Edit: According to the SDS, it contains kerosene, among other things. Folks including myself have been using No.9 Plus as a patch lube for decades. So much for "petroleum products in the bore are bad."

Ned Roberts advised using Hoppes no. 9 for cleaning. If it’s good enough for Ned…

 

[Dave Markowitz]

Ned Roberts advised using Hoppes no. 9 for cleaning. If it’s good enough for Ned…

He was referring to the original Hoppe's No.9, not the No.9 Black Powder Solvent AKA No.9 Plus, which didn't exist when he wrote The Muzzleloading Caplock Rifle.

I've let a couple muzzleloading rifle bores soak overnight in regular No.9 nitro solvent after being cleaned with soapy water, and it's floated out additional crud.

 

[Bad Karma]

He was referring to the original Hoppe's No.9, not the No.9 Black Powder Solvent AKA No.9 Plus, which didn't exist when he wrote The Muzzleloading Caplock Rifle.

I've let a couple muzzleloading rifle bores soak overnight in regular No.9 nitro solvent after being cleaned with soapy water, and it's floated out additional crud.

Yes. I have and use both.

 

[oldwood]

Been using Bore Butter for over 20 yrs. , only because my supply of Dixie Old Zip mutton tallow ran out. One thing with Bore Butter , I've found that after applying it to the patch , I do better rubbing as much of it off with my finger on a hard surface. I know this sounds a little tedious , but I lube my patches before I go to the range , or hunting ,so I don't have to do it out there. My favorite rifle is a W.Va. mtn rifle , and the greased patches stick right in the stock's grease hole. Easy to access when loading............oldwood

 

[mtfishn]

I've shot "spit" for nearly 30 years with great success shooting in matches with one rifle. I recently got a .54 cal. barrel specifically to shoot round balls. Started with a rather thick patch (.02-.022) and spit. got OK groups....not as good as I had hoped....about 6-7" at 100yds from bench. Out of curiosity ..haveing never tried it, I brewd up some moose milk. This blend was 1 part Balistol/ 5 parts H20 / 1 part Murphys. My group size at 100 shrunk to 3" for 5 shots.....First target in competition using this combination shot one out of the black due to wind....corected for the wind and placed the next 4 into 2-1/2", 3 10s and a 9. Either can work but the later example taught me it pays to experiment a little.

 

[ETipp]

I've shot "spit" for nearly 30 years with great success shooting in matches with one rifle. I recently got a .54 cal. barrel specifically to shoot round balls. Started with a rather thick patch (.02-.022) and spit. got OK groups....not as good as I had hoped....about 6-7" at 100yds from bench. Out of curiosity ..haveing never tried it, I brewd up some moose milk. This blend was 1 part Balistol/ 5 parts H20 / 1 part Murphys. My group size at 100 shrunk to 3" for 5 shots.....First target in competition using this combination shot one out of the black due to wind....corected for the wind and placed the next 4 into 2-1/2", 3 10s and a 9. Either can work but the later example taught me it pays to experiment a little.

How well would that work for hunting loads that remain in the ML for a few days at a time?

 

[mtfishn]

How well would that work for hunting loads that remain in the ML for a few days at a time?

I'll probably use something with a different base (beeswax or veg. oil) and place a card under the patched round ball, between ball and powder. I haven't tried the h20/Balistol blend for hunting.

 

[Pvt.Hardtack]

First target in competition using this combination shot one out of the black due to wind....corected for the wind and placed the next 4 into 2-1/2", 3 10s and a 9.

At 100 yards off a bench with a BP muzzleloader? I'd have to see that to believe it. Thats some unbelieveable shooting, the stuff storied legends are made of.
I don't believe even Boone or Crockett could shoot that good.
Thats hard to do for an expert rifleman with an iron sight M14 match grade rifle.
Just goin from what I've seen and done from experience over the years at NRA high powered matches.

 

[BS]

1-3
Water soluble oil [1 part] to 3 parts Dawn] dish soap.
Mix it together and it makes a waxy grease, apply with finger.
I used Rustlick WS-11 oil from NAPA.
Dawn it the Platinum Ultra.
I have used it or a version on 60 or more shots with my home made slugs with no leading.
It works for bullet lube and patch lube.
Try 1-2 also, see witch one you like.

Rustlick is sold by the gallon, need to find water soluble oil in quarts.