patch lube question

[tom hargrove]

im looking for suggestions on how to make a good patch lube. been useing wonder lube and it works well,but i just want to make my own i make all my other accouterments so the lube should be homemade also any suggestions well be greatly appreceiated.

 

[bwhoffman]

do a search on this site for " stumpy's moose juice and stumpy's moose milk. great proven lubes!
there are a ton of recipes for some others that work well.
My favorite is olive oil 4 parts, murphy's oil soap 1 part and enough bee's wak to thicken to the consistancy I desire, mix the first 2, skim off the crud, blend in the bees wak bit by bit, all in a double boiler, the micro wave or on the wood stove. I really like the olive oil.
I soak my patches and squeeze out the excess.
works for me, your milage my vary!

Brett

 

[Snuffy]

Of all the "popular" cooking oils your mother or wife keeps around the house, Peanut Oil withstands the highest temperatures from the most potent powders and still maintains the same high lubrication properties.

However, I prefer to see my home-made patches dry-out first. I hate messy, oily hands at the range from my wifes cooking oils. So in most cases, the ones I shoot have been in my old Skoal can for a few months drying out - but still remaining slippery for use.

Try a 6 to 1 batch using six parts plain blue Windex with one part Murphys Oil soap and one part Ballistol... or any soluble oil. Mix all these three together. Dump some patches in that mix - then hand-squeeze em' out & put some away for when the snow flies. That's when you will like them the best.

 

[tom hargrove]

thanks for the info ill give it a shot. it really nice to post something and actually get a reply the other forum i was on was one of those that if you werent in the upper crust of members you got nothing.

 

[Rebel]

Yep, Stumpkillers Mosse Snot works real good.

 

[AZ-Robert]

do a search on this site for " stumpy's moose juice and stumpy's moose milk. great proven lubes!

I'll second the recommendation for Stumpkiller's potions. That moose milk lets me shoot all day long without bothering to clean between shots. From what Zonie tells us, I think the magic ingredient is the castor oil. Here they are:

Stumpkiller's moose milk

Isopropyl Alcohol (91%) __ 8 oz.
Castor Oil _______________ 3 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap ________ 1 oz.
Witch Hazel ______________ 4 oz.
Water (non-chlorinated) __ 16 oz.

Add in the above order and shake well to mix as added, and again before every use or transfer. Oil and water don't mix, dontcha know. Castor is alcohol soluable, but not in water. And yes, the witch hazel does seem to make a difference in how well it smears and coats the bore.

I dip cotton strips twice, allowing them to dry flat, for "dry patching" (it's still oily, but not messy). Works great as a wet lube and powder solvent, too.

For absolute target or hunting I either wipe between shots with a spit patch if using a ball block or else add a drop of fresh milk to the patch and smear it between my thumb and index finger if cutting at the muzzle.

Stumpy's moose snot

A premium multi-shot between wiping (10+) patch lube stable over a wide temperature range.
SPECIFICALLY designed for use of patched round balls in a loading block

Beeswax 2 oz.
Castor Oil 8 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.


Heat beeswax in a soup can set a pot of water. ( A double-boiler. I keep my beeswax in a one pound coffee can and measure out what I need by melting it and pouring it into measuring cups). Add just enough water so the inner can does not begin to float (should be just short of the lube level in the can). Heat the water to a low boil. In a separate can, add the castor oil and Murphy's oil soap (cold). Once the beeswax is melted, swap the castor oil can in the pot of water for the beeswax. Add the beeswax to the oils. It will clump up. Stir with an ice tea spoon as the mixture heats up. When it fully melts there will be a scum that floats to the top and just won't mix in. Be patient. DO NOT COOK THE MIXTURE. Once the solids are dissolved there is no need to heat further. Skim the scum off. Remove the mix from the heat and wipe the water off the outside (so it won't drip into the container when you pour it out). FINAL TOP SECRET STEP: Add a teaspoon of Murphy's Oil Soap and stir vigorously. This last step makes the lube frothy and smooth - really adds to the appearance; though it doesn't seem to matter to the function of the lube. Clamp the can in the jaws of a vice-grip pliers and pour into the waiting tins. Allow to cool a half hour.

Note: it if is a hinged tin - line the edge that has the hinges with a strip of aluminum foil so it doesn't ooze out before it cools.

 

[barebackjack]

How bout a good COOOOOOOOOOOLD weather lube. Our ML season here is in december, which means its rarely over 10 degrees, and most likey -15 or more.

Ive been using bore butter and wonder lube with great results, but my freezer test failed them both miserably.

Thanks
Boone

 

[Rebel]

Stumpy's Moose Snot.

 

[paulvallandigham]

You can think the Bore Butter with mineral oil, or with peanut oil and it will remain soft in those temperatures.

 

[roundball]

Ive been using bore butter and wonder lube with great results, but my freezer test failed them both miserably.

Thanks for making that declaration...I've seen occasional posts where borebutter is frowned upon as not being good for cold weather based upon some sort of home freezer test...I always thought the raging inferno of ignition would liquify any lube immediatelty...even if it really was frozen...and reloading patches can be kept in an inside pocket where it's warm anyway...so I never quite understood the problem...wasn't convinced it really was a problem

 

[TN.Frank]

Your really don't have to "make" anything, just use Crisco or Olive Oil and you'll be fine. Olive Oil also works as a bore oil too and you can use it on leather and wipe down your stock with it. Olive Oil truly is a "magic" oil.

 

[barebackjack]

I just think its better safe than sorry. Everyone always talks about bore obstructions and the dangers involved with them, and ya, the powder going off does melt it, but for a split second it may be seized in there tight, and Id rather not take the chance. I dont know about N. Carolina, but it gets colder than a witches t$tty here, ive seen cheap scope optics crack from the cold, as well as pickup drive shafts snap like twigs.

Thanks for the help guys.

Boone

 

[roundball]

I just think its better safe than sorry. Everyone always talks about bore obstructions and the dangers involved with them, and ya, the powder going off does melt it, but for a split second it may be seized in there tight, and Id rather not take the chance.

Sorry, apparently I got confused...you said you had great success with bore butter in spite of "failed freezer tests", implying that bore butter worked fine regardless of the failed "home freezer tests"...so I think you're saying that even though it's been successful to date, you want to use something else that does pass a home freezer test...
:v

 

[barebackjack]

Im sorry, it works well in the summer. I have never used it in the winter, but winter here is much colder than my freezer.

I should have clarified that. Sorry bout that.

Boone

 

[Black Hand]

I think this is a "non-problem". I use Bore Butter year-round with no problems in Montana. I would be more worried about not having the ball seated onto the powder (and I do check periodically when hunting). If it works, don't mess with it.......

 

[Dayne]

I also use Bore Butter and have not any problems relating to the cold.

 

[Forster]

I have done well in extreme cold with mink tallow from Track of the Wolf....Jim

 

[Stumpkiller]

How bout a good COOOOOOOOOOOLD weather lube. Our ML season here is in december, which means its rarely over 10 degrees, and most likey -15 or more.

Ive been using bore butter and wonder lube with great results, but my freezer test failed them both miserably.

Thanks
Boone

Our muzzleloading season starts on December 15th. I've hunted well below zero with the Moose Snot in ball blocks and it doesn't harden up. My freezer is a measured 6ºF (good digital thermometer) and I've left a tin of the grease style lubes in for a week and it was useable (though I did have to press hard to smear the Snot onto a patch).

Two years ago I took a buck in -10º to -15º temperatures with a muzzleloader and it felt like sticking my hands in boiling water when I field dressed him. :winking:

 

Here's a good recipe for disaster. What's the PH on that mixture again? maybe I missed it. The murphys has sodium EDTA, caustic and a variety of other nasty acids to help clean finished wood. The castor oil is effective in carrying it into the threads of the breech plug. acid and steel don't really work well together. I found a bunch of re-enactors at Ft. Ontario that figured if you can drink coffee it must be OK to clean their barrel. Coffee is an acid too. I hope I got through to them. Murphys is good for your stock, bad for steel. If you look on the back label of murphys it is only good for steel that is painted. It also states that it isn't good for unfinished, unsealed or unwaxed wood.the Non-Wood surfases include No wax floors, ceramic tile, PAINTED surfaces, Laundry Stains Cars (assuming they're paintrd and Vinyl. A company who has done research and Development for over 100 years still does not recommend untreated steel. :hmm: I know many say "It works for me" when it doesn't just remember where you got the recipe from. I went through this with the NMLRA 10 years ago with their "lightning Lube." I proved my point to them.

do a search on this site for " stumpy's moose juice and stumpy's moose milk. great proven lubes!

I'll second the recommendation for Stumpkiller's potions. That moose milk lets me shoot all day long without bothering to clean between shots. From what Zonie tells us, I think the magic ingredient is the castor oil. Here they are:

Stumpkiller's moose milk

Isopropyl Alcohol (91%) __ 8 oz.
Castor Oil _______________ 3 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap ________ 1 oz.
Witch Hazel ______________ 4 oz.
Water (non-chlorinated) __ 16 oz.

Add in the above order and shake well to mix as added, and again before every use or transfer. Oil and water don't mix, dontcha know. Castor is alcohol soluable, but not in water. And yes, the witch hazel does seem to make a difference in how well it smears and coats the bore.

I dip cotton strips twice, allowing them to dry flat, for "dry patching" (it's still oily, but not messy). Works great as a wet lube and powder solvent, too.

For absolute target or hunting I either wipe between shots with a spit patch if using a ball block or else add a drop of fresh milk to the patch and smear it between my thumb and index finger if cutting at the muzzle.

Stumpy's moose snot

A premium multi-shot between wiping (10+) patch lube stable over a wide temperature range.
SPECIFICALLY designed for use of patched round balls in a loading block

Beeswax 2 oz.
Castor Oil 8 oz.
Murphy's Oil Soap 1 oz.


Heat beeswax in a soup can set a pot of water. ( A double-boiler. I keep my beeswax in a one pound coffee can and measure out what I need by melting it and pouring it into measuring cups). Add just enough water so the inner can does not begin to float (should be just short of the lube level in the can). Heat the water to a low boil. In a separate can, add the castor oil and Murphy's oil soap (cold). Once the beeswax is melted, swap the castor oil can in the pot of water for the beeswax. Add the beeswax to the oils. It will clump up. Stir with an ice tea spoon as the mixture heats up. When it fully melts there will be a scum that floats to the top and just won't mix in. Be patient. DO NOT COOK THE MIXTURE. Once the solids are dissolved there is no need to heat further. Skim the scum off. Remove the mix from the heat and wipe the water off the outside (so it won't drip into the container when you pour it out). FINAL TOP SECRET STEP: Add a teaspoon of Murphy's Oil Soap and stir vigorously. This last step makes the lube frothy and smooth - really adds to the appearance; though it doesn't seem to matter to the function of the lube. Clamp the can in the jaws of a vice-grip pliers and pour into the waiting tins. Allow to cool a half hour.

Note: it if is a hinged tin - line the edge that has the hinges with a strip of aluminum foil so it doesn't ooze out before it cools.

 

[Stumpkiller]

I was just informed the pH for moose juice, mixed as directed, is 8.2; slightly alkali.

I'm cleaning a $3,000 "natural patina" (unblued) flintlock with it. If I catch a breechplug in the cheek I'll be sure to inform the forum. :winking:

Perhaps the hot, soapy (Ivory, occasionally Murphy's) water I use for a thorough cleaning rinses all the salts away through purely mechanical sloughing with enough rinsing?

The detergent in Murphy's is a surfacant and binds the dissolved salts (it's own and those of burnt powder). I always chase a cleaning with a patch soaked in alcohol to displace any remaining water.

Don't want to throw stones, but I gut rust the day after using a batch of 2003 Lehigh Valley Lube in my T/C as a bore coating after shooting.

I did a two month rust test on bare steel (Olympic 18 ga. CRS) with 15 different compounds. The Murphys did very well wiped on bare steel, hosed, flashed with black powder, and hose again. Then left outdoors under a car-port. Search back to "Lube Wars" from two years ago.

T/C #13 rusted BEFORE tap (well) water did!