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irniff

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michel for easy push down your rd ball i use some lubricant from Tana it is a product to watherprouf your leather boouts sounds funny but it is a great lube it come in a small rd container easy to use you will be surprise how it will be easy to push your rd ball with no effort and no effect on powder give it a try it work
 
you guys are probably asking yourself who the hell is Michel ?
well let me introduce myself Michel Mongrain a member here on muzzleloader
Richard registered himself not to log ago and his a friend of mind
and a muzzleloader addict, full of good idea and know how, please make irniff ( Richard ) is transition to English easy as you can see he is trying hard to learn your language,
has for his Tana lube, yes it eases the sitting of the round ball,
if I am not mistaken it has mink oil in it but has other ingredients also that I am not certain about, if some of you have experience with this could you share it with us?
thank you from Michel and Irniff....
 
I did use 'snowproof' boot dressing a bit, it got too stiff in cold weather.
I tryed many things until I happened to try 'GoJo' white hand cleaner that does best for me. YMMV.
Welcome to the Forum irniff :hatsoff:
 
gojo white hand cleaner !
cleaner for lube and it works, will have to try this
excuse my ignorance but YMMV means? :confused:
 
i am surprise to see the wide variete of lube it is possible to use , i will learn a lot from you i have many haours of reading , thank you. p.s. blizzard thanks for the welcome a bientot.
 
This sounds kinda weird even to me and I've never tried it but has STP shown any usefulness as a patch lube?
 
Yea I tried it in the sixties, it leads to bad fouling. But it is good as a long term rust preventive. Just remember to wash it out with alcohol or a carb cleaner or you will get some nasty fouling.
 
Have you ever tried Ivory dish soap? I cut my patch material into strips and run a line of dish soap down them. Then fold them up and wet them with water (not much) then work everything together till it lathers up. Put them in a tin, for shooting the next day. Works for me. Leon
 
Welcome to the forum! I haven't tied it, but I see Walmart carry's it. These day's I use mostly olive oil or spit.
 
I used to render out deer or bear tallow for patch lube. You can't beat spit for conveniance. A friend of mine just about has me convinced that "Weasel Juice" is the way to go. Equal parts of Murphy's Oil Soap, Hydrogen Peroxide, & Alcohol.
 
Keep it simple. :wink:

Pure mink oil from TOTW for hunting patches, spit for all other times. :thumbsup:
 
Marshal said:
I used to render out deer or bear tallow for patch lube. You can't beat spit for conveniance. A friend of mine just about has me convinced that "Weasel Juice" is the way to go. Equal parts of Murphy's Oil Soap, Hydrogen Peroxide, & Alcohol.
"Weasel Juice" :hmm: Never heard that term before. I use the same ingrediants for cleaning the barrel after a day of shooting but with the following ratios. 3-parts alcohol / 2 parts peroxide / 1 part murphy's.
 
Every time I hear or read someone use the words "Hydrogen Peroxide" I keep asking myself, "What is so neat about stuff that consists of water plus some loose and mischievous loosely bonded oxygen atoms?

It costs at least 50 times more than plain water and the extra oxygen kills bacteria like it's going out of style but I see absolutely no reason to use it in anything that is going to be applied to a steel or iron part unless creating rust is the goal.

Sorry, but this always sets me off. :hmm:
 
Zonie said:
Every time I hear or read someone use the words "Hydrogen Peroxide" I keep asking myself, "What is so neat about stuff that consists of water plus some loose and mischievous loosely bonded oxygen atoms?

It costs at least 50 times more than plain water and the extra oxygen kills bacteria like it's going out of style but I see absolutely no reason to use it in anything that is going to be applied to a steel or iron part unless creating rust is the goal.

Sorry, but this always sets me off. :hmm:
Zonie,

I thought about eliminating the peroxide from the mix but then I figured what the hell it can't hurt the metal because it's not straight peroxide, if anything it could only help or just be neutral. The mix works very well. I use very little to clean the gun (1/2/to 3/4 ounce), a little goes a long way. Peroxide is always in the house so why not.
 
Hydrogen peroxide is a VERY reactive chemical. It is so powerful that a pure solution of hydrogen peroxide can be used as a type of rocket fuel! The hydrogen peroxide you buy in the drug store is diluted to 3%. Any more than that and the solution would be too dangerous to handle.

I don't understand why hydrogen peroxide is used in home made patch lubes and rifle cleaning solutions. I can virtually guarantee that it causes some sort of deterioration, even if it is only minor.

Now, I'm sure somebody will reply, "Well I've been using it for 20 years and it hasn't done a bit of harm..." But, honestly, I wouldn't use it.

It would be a good experiment to make a batch of your lube/cleaner without it and see if it makes a difference.

If it does nothing else, it will simplify your recipe by one ingredient. Right? ;)
 
I'm off my soap box now :grin:, but seriously, I'd advise folks that when they see Hydrogen Peroxide in some of these home grown lubes and cleaning solutions if they simply replace the Hydrogen Peroxide with an equal amount of water they would be money ahead and eliminate something that could cause rust.
If they are wanting to eliminate any trace of the things that make some tap water "hard" some distilled water or reverse filtered drinking water would do the trick at very little cost. :thumbsup:
 
cleaning product; today at work my friends said that they use after a shooting session this formula:3 quarts of windshield washer the -40 f. mix to 1 cup amonia ,finaly 1 table spoon of lestoil soap it is suppose to be a great cleaning product i will trie it and let know the verdic !
 
For cleaning, I only use soap and hot water. Nothing more.

I use Dr. Bronner's Castile soap. It's made from vegetable oil, potassium hydroxide and a little bit of essential oil from various plants. (e.g. Peppermint, Eucalyptus, etc.)

When I can find it, I use Dr. Bronner's "Sal Suds."
It's made from sodium lauryl sulfate and pine oil.
http://www.drbronner.com/DBMS/OLPE16/PeppermintLiquidSoap.htm http://www.drbronner.com/DBMS/SAL.htm

Personally, I don't give a rat's a$$ about organic products and all that junk. I use it because it's good soap. Besides, when I'm done, I can take a shower using the same soap I use to clean my guns.

Heck! Maybe I could save a step if I just took the gun into the shower with me! :wink:
 
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