Patches cut at muzzle

[Rancocas]

I wonder if old Daniel Boone measured the thickness of the rabbit skin he used for patch material?

I've never measured cloth thickness in my life. Ridiculous! If my ball goes down the barrel with a piece of cloth wrapped around it, then good. If not, I use some other patch material. Either that, or I use a .490 ball instead of a .495 ball.

I cut a strip of pillow ticking 2 inches wide and about 2 feet long. I lube it with whatever lube I am using at the time. Then, I roll it up. Usually it goes in my shot bag. If I plan on doing some target shooting I may tie the strip of material to the strap of my bag for easy access.

I'll load my loading block by placing the patching over a hole, push in a ball, and cut off the patch material with my knife.
Same way for loading my rifle and fowler with round ball. Lay the patch material over the bore, push a ball down until its level with the muzzle, then cut off the material.

This has worked for me for over 30 years.

 

[Grenadier1758]

Daniel didn't measure patch thickness than how it felt between his thumb and finger and accuracy was good enough.

Now we can measure. One way to tighten the weave is to wash the pillow ticking, drill cloth, denim, canvas or whatever material of choice even 100% linen from flax, in very hot water and dry in the dryer on high heat. The weave will tighten up. Wash again and let air dry or back in the dryer. Get the sizing out and the weave at its tightest. Measuring at the fabric store is only an indication of what the measurement of the washed fabric will be.

 

[Howard Pippin]

I wonder if old Daniel Boone measured the thickness of the rabbit skin he used for patch material?

I've never measured cloth thickness in my life. Ridiculous! If my ball goes down the barrel with a piece of cloth wrapped around it, then good. If not, I use some other patch material. Either that, or I use a .490 ball instead of a .495 ball.

I cut a strip of pillow ticking 2 inches wide and about 2 feet long. I lube it with whatever lube I am using at the time. Then, I roll it up. Usually it goes in my shot bag. If I plan on doing some target shooting I may tie the strip of material to the strap of my bag for easy access.

I'll load my loading block by placing the patching over a hole, push in a ball, and cut off the patch material with my knife.
Same way for loading my rifle and fowler with round ball. Lay the patch material over the bore, push a ball down until its level with the muzzle, then cut off the material.

This has worked for me for over 30 years.

There are many good reasons to be using a muzzleloader rifle, some are, just to be able to hunt special seasons, to go back to what our ancestors used, or maybe just to see what it took to make old things work. I enjoy reading about the experimentation by others, I do it myself because that's part of what I've got time to do. I still kill a few things that I eat, but most of it comes across the counter downtown. The drive isn't there to have to hunt everyday to fill the larder, as it was in the days long gone for some of my ancestors.

When I go to a muzzleloader shoot, my rifle is already sighted in, but what fun is it to sit there and watch other people shoot to sight in, so why don't I go ahead and shoot a few balls? Isn't that what I come to do? I don't necessarily have to change anything but when you're an old Turkey you gotta find something to do.
Squint

 

[Ed C.]

There are many good reasons to be using a muzzleloader rifle, some are, just to be able to hunt special seasons, to go back to what our ancestors used, or maybe just to see what it took to make old things work. I enjoy reading about the experimentation by others, I do it myself because that's part of what I've got time to do. I still kill a few things that I eat, but most of it comes across the counter downtown. The drive isn't there to have to hunt everyday to fill the larder, as it was in the days long gone for some of my ancestors.

When I go to a muzzleloader shoot, my rifle is already sighted in, but what fun is it to sit there and watch other people shoot to sight in, so why don't I go ahead and shoot a few balls? Isn't that what I come to do? I don't necessarily have to change anything but when you're an old Turkey you gotta find something to do.
Squint

Once I get a rifle or revolver all tuned up and develop a good load, the challenge is over and I'll go to the range with the idea of letting others shoot my guns. Very gratifying to see some one score very well with a type of gun they have never shot before. Sometimes I'll only shoot 6 rounds or so. It's like you said, when you get old you gotta do something. Or die (my quote).

 

[stephenprops1]

You won't get better accuracy. Tested a tin, multiple rifles, not a dang bit of difference.

I disagree. I have a 45 caliber Hawken rifle. I have tested a variety of patch thicknesses and I have learned .012 thickness works best me and my rifle.

 

[IanH]

Anybody that thinks patch thickness doesn't affect group size doesn't know very much.

 

[Frontier's]

I disagree. I have a 45 caliber Hawken rifle. I have tested a variety of patch thicknesses and I have learned .012 thickness works best me and my rifle.

Thickness matters, yes. Cutting it at the muzzle or precut, doesn't make a difference in any rifle I own.

 

[Frontier's]

Anybody that thinks patch thickness doesn't affect group size doesn't know very much.

Yall need to learn how to read...

TOPIC SUBJECT....

PATCHES CUT AT THE MUZZLE

 

[M. De Land]

I’ve been buying pre-cut lubed patches for the last 30 years but after reading so many posts advocating using pillow material I thought I would give it a try so I have a couple of questions. It is easy to measure a rigid item with a micrometer but how do you measure the thickness of cloth that compresses. I can get readings from .015 to .020 and still be able to pull the material through the micrometer. Also do you just cut the material into squares or do you cut a particular width strip of cloth then cut it off at the muzzle? And if you do cut it at the muzzle what about lube. As I see it you would simply lay the end of the strip of cloth over the muzzle, press the ball down then cut the cloth, so what do you do about lube? Do you lube the whole strip before hand or do you lube just the end you’re loading with the ball. I know this is pretty basic stuff but like I said I’ve always used pre-cut patches so I was wondering how you all did this.

Stan

I have done it both way but with strip patching I cut a strip about 1.5 inches wide x 12-18 inches long and chew on it while dumping the powder charge, place the ball sprue up, push in level with the crown using a short starter base and cut it flush with the muzzle.
Mostly now days for match work I use pre-cut patching soaked in windshield wash, squeezed out damp before loading. I make patch cutting dies and press them out 8-10 at a time against a heavy aluminum plate in my bench vice that cuts them clean except for a thread or two which is trimmed off with a dry wall knife..
For hunting I'm going to use my rendered bear oil patches with a milk carton wad between the patched ball and the powder.

 

[FPDoc]

I’ve been buying pre-cut lubed patches for the last 30 years but after reading so many posts advocating using pillow material I thought I would give it a try so I have a couple of questions. It is easy to measure a rigid item with a micrometer but how do you measure the thickness of cloth that compresses. I can get readings from .015 to .020 and still be able to pull the material through the micrometer. Also do you just cut the material into squares or do you cut a particular width strip of cloth then cut it off at the muzzle? And if you do cut it at the muzzle what about lube. As I see it you would simply lay the end of the strip of cloth over the muzzle, press the ball down then cut the cloth, so what do you do about lube? Do you lube the whole strip before hand or do you lube just the end you’re loading with the ball. I know this is pretty basic stuff but like I said I’ve always used pre-cut patches so I was wondering how you all did this.

Stan

I either prelube and roll it jp to store or use ie plain whe spit patching while out walking. Stick one end in your mouth and the other end anywhere handy.
P.S. Unlubed patch strips woŕk well when out with your flintlock and you try to wipe moisture from your flint with your FINGER.. I hear..

 

[FPDoc]

I’ve been buying pre-cut lubed patches for the last 30 years but after reading so many posts advocating using pillow material I thought I would give it a try so I have a couple of questions. It is easy to measure a rigid item with a micrometer but how do you measure the thickness of cloth that compresses. I can get readings from .015 to .020 and still be able to pull the material through the micrometer. Also do you just cut the material into squares or do you cut a particular width strip of cloth then cut it off at the muzzle? And if you do cut it at the muzzle what about lube. As I see it you would simply lay the end of the strip of cloth over the muzzle, press the ball down then cut the cloth, so what do you do about lube? Do you lube the whole strip before hand or do you lube just the end you’re loading with the ball. I know this is pretty basic stuff but like I said I’ve always used pre-cut patches so I was wondering how you all did this.

Stan

I either prelube and roll it up to store or use it plain when spit patching while out walking. Stick one end in your mouth and the other end anywhere handy.
P.S. Unlubed patch strips woŕk well when out with your flintlock and you try to wipe moisture from your flint with your FINGER.. I hear..

 

[FPDoc]

I’ve been buying pre-cut lubed patches for the last 30 years but after reading so many posts advocating using pillow material I thought I would give it a try so I have a couple of questions. It is easy to measure a rigid item with a micrometer but how do you measure the thickness of cloth that compresses. I can get readings from .015 to .020 and still be able to pull the material through the micrometer. Also do you just cut the material into squares or do you cut a particular width strip of cloth then cut it off at the muzzle? And if you do cut it at the muzzle what about lube. As I see it you would simply lay the end of the strip of cloth over the muzzle, press the ball down then cut the cloth, so what do you do about lube? Do you lube the whole strip before hand or do you lube just the end you’re loading with the ball. I know this is pretty basic stuff but like I said I’ve always used pre-cut patches so I was wondering how you all did this.

Stan

I either prelube and roll it up to store or use it plain when spit patching while out walking. Stick one end in your mouth and the other end anywhere handy.
P.S. Unlubed patch strips woŕk well when out with your flintlock and you try to wipe moisture from yourflint with your FINGER.. I hear..

 

[ETipp]

From all the information I have found on this subject, I'm simply not seeing any imperial evidence that cutting patches at the muzzle makes any difference in accuracy. So this brings us to whatever one prefers to do. I do not find it difficult to center even a small .32 caliber RB over precut patches. Occasionally one will be somewhat off center initially but its easy to re-center it. As long as the patch covered the sides of the ball I was still killing squirrels.


I will say that carrying more things in the mountains/woods on hunt than what is needed has always has been a no go for me. In fact, I am adamant about carrying the lest amount as possible. So for this ole boy, precut and prelubed patches carried in a very small container works very well. If I were more of a target shooter then it might be a different story. However, I am first and foremost a hunter.

 

[Grenadier1758]

@ETipp, as long as the patch is covering the circumference of the ball at the lands, pre-cut, cut-at-the-muzzle, square or whatever shape (even those ridiculous daisy shaped patches) will do a fine job with respect to the accuracy measurement. It really is the patching method one prefers.

 

[deerstalkert]

@ETipp, as long as the patch is covering the circumference of the ball at the lands, pre-cut, cut-at-the-muzzle, square or whatever shape (even those ridiculous daisy shaped patches) will do a fine job with respect to the accuracy measurement. It really is the patching method one prefers.

tried those daisy shaped patches. only benefit I saw was finding them on the gravel driveway.
not many pieces of grave shaped like a daisy!

 

[StanD]

tried those daisy shaped patches. only benefit I saw was finding them on the gravel driveway.
not many pieces of grave shaped like a daisy!

Todays trip to the range was primarily to test some Lee 380 gr. Reals which I just cast. I was very surprised and very pleased with the way these shot. I also wanted to test out the new patch material I picked up at Johann’s a couple of days ago. . I took my micrometer along to Johann’s to check the thickness and the red striped pillow ticking seemed to be the thinnest of the 4 skeins they had so I bought a half yard to try. I cut and lubed some square pieces and a couple of strips. The lubed square pieces loaded fine but I never got to try cutting at the muzzle. I was less than enamored with the way the patched round balls shot but then I really didn’t run much of a test. Next time I go I won’t load any Reals so I’ll have time to run a good test on the round balls and the new patch material. I am pleased with how they load with the red striped ticking compared with the blue. I was using Bore Butter for lube with a dry fiber wad over the powder and 85 gr. black 2f. I never found any patches, next time I’ll look a bit better. Lots of weeds so they are hard to see. Thanks for all the information.

Stan

 

[Toscano]

I would agree with that. I have several different batches of ticking and there are noticeable differences between some of them.

I use my vernier calipers to choose .015" pillow ticking at Hobby Lobby. I know how much pressure is needed to measure it by comparing the pressure used to get a .015" reading on known patches.
I take it home and wash it. Then on a piece of Plexiglas using a rotary fabric cutter I cut the fabric into 1 1/8 to 1 1/4" inch squares. For .50 cal. In about 10 minutes I'll have over a hundred. The night before I'm going to shoot I dampen the amount needed with either Olde Turkey Track or a 6:1 water to ballistol solution with a dab of Dawn soap. I squeeze out all the excess liquid and store the patches in a small airtight container ready for use at the range. I load using a jag with a patch on top of the ball using the same water/ ballistol solution. I get very good groups and don't have to swab between shots. This allows for pretty quick loading at the range with everything ready to go.

One way I determine overall diameter is to place the fabric OVER the ball and measure both with a micrometer. If your mic has a tension clutch it will give consistant pressure on the anvils.