Just a thought...I have these on my renegade...now I admit my eyes are not what they used to be...but is it just me that feels the sights obliterate more than they help? Not to mention that to me at least...they are a rather coarse sight with that thick front sight. Any comments would be welcome.
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patridge sights
- Thread starter oomcurt
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oomcurt said:
You may know that they were intended as a 'primitive sight', and I also find them too large and coarse to give me the degree of accuracy that I like.
Even TC's early style bead front sights had too large of a bead, which TC eventually redesigned to an even smaller sized bead, and I down sized all the large beads to small ones on any TC Hawken that had them.
The primitive sights would probably be OK for a 6 o'clock hold under a large bullseye, but for hunting I like to aim precisely at the spot I'm trying to hit using a small bead.
(precisely 'hitting' it may be another matter of course, but it wouldn't due to the sights :grin: )
walruskid1
54 Cal.
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- Jul 1, 2005
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i like the factory sights for hunting but they are lacking for target use. i went to a small bead on a post with a rear peep for punching paper. the bead is gold and i can blacken it if needed, depending on the sunlight conditions.
I had a take off from a Model 96 Mauser that I put on a Type 38 Arisaka that had a barrel mounted peep. It was pretty narrow, and that rifle shoots real well, when there is enough light. I had to do some file work to get it in the dovetail, but I think it was worth it for a knock about rifle. I use it with a 6 o'clock hold.
IMO, the front sight on the TC Hawkens and the Lyman GPR are all better suited for use as a club than a sight.
I have found that filing the width of the front blade down so it is about .040 wide helps me aim better.
I am a "aim at the point you want to hit" type person and almost never use the "6:00" sight picture, even when I'm shooting targets.
I have found that filing the width of the front blade down so it is about .040 wide helps me aim better.
I am a "aim at the point you want to hit" type person and almost never use the "6:00" sight picture, even when I'm shooting targets.
Hi Hobbles,
Sorry, don't have a picture. I think I can describe the problem though in words. The front sight is a ramp sloping back from the muzzle and say 1/16 inch wide. The rear sight is has a square sided opening slightly wider than the front sight...say about a 64th of an inch on each side wider than the front sight. When sighting....you only have this sliver of light on each side of the front sight so the centering of the sight on what you are shooting at is no problem except it is time consuming. The real problem is the hight....while keeping the front sight centered lateraly...all you really see as far as the verticle goes is this wide bar of metal...true, it may be a great sight for targets....but I would much prefer sights where the rear is a "V" shape and the front a round "dot". Hope this helps clearing up what I am posting about.
Sorry, don't have a picture. I think I can describe the problem though in words. The front sight is a ramp sloping back from the muzzle and say 1/16 inch wide. The rear sight is has a square sided opening slightly wider than the front sight...say about a 64th of an inch on each side wider than the front sight. When sighting....you only have this sliver of light on each side of the front sight so the centering of the sight on what you are shooting at is no problem except it is time consuming. The real problem is the hight....while keeping the front sight centered lateraly...all you really see as far as the verticle goes is this wide bar of metal...true, it may be a great sight for targets....but I would much prefer sights where the rear is a "V" shape and the front a round "dot". Hope this helps clearing up what I am posting about.
hobbles
50 Cal.
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Mornin oomcurt,,
Thanks for the info,, Some one told me to use 125 glasses, I'm up to 275 now,, I can't find who or where that post is,, any way,, to the guy that told me that,, I tried the 125, I had an old pair layin round and I wanted to tell you,, IT WORKS,,,, **GREAT** I have my old vision back, I lined up at a tree with a 2" knot on it where a branch just blew off at 50 yards with my sights and I could sea every thing, I don't need a scope,, I do get a lil dizzy lookin round with em on but that's life,, I can sea far and near,,, Thanks to that person,,
Thanks for the info,, Some one told me to use 125 glasses, I'm up to 275 now,, I can't find who or where that post is,, any way,, to the guy that told me that,, I tried the 125, I had an old pair layin round and I wanted to tell you,, IT WORKS,,,, **GREAT** I have my old vision back, I lined up at a tree with a 2" knot on it where a branch just blew off at 50 yards with my sights and I could sea every thing, I don't need a scope,, I do get a lil dizzy lookin round with em on but that's life,, I can sea far and near,,, Thanks to that person,,
It may be because I been competing in pistol shoots for over 50 yrs. but for me the Patridge
sight is the only way to go. I want a square notch rear and a square top post front about 1/10" wide and a little light on each side to center it. Open the rear notch if required for a faster shot. Your point of impact should be at the
top of the post so it doesn't cover your target.
All my guns have this arrangement, pistols, rifles, muzzleloading and cartridge guns. For me it is the most accurate setup. Also I want them black, nothing shiney. Much easier to hold 1/16" or whatever square above your rear sight for longer ranges than a shiney little silver blade or
bead.
sight is the only way to go. I want a square notch rear and a square top post front about 1/10" wide and a little light on each side to center it. Open the rear notch if required for a faster shot. Your point of impact should be at the
top of the post so it doesn't cover your target.
All my guns have this arrangement, pistols, rifles, muzzleloading and cartridge guns. For me it is the most accurate setup. Also I want them black, nothing shiney. Much easier to hold 1/16" or whatever square above your rear sight for longer ranges than a shiney little silver blade or
bead.
I've owned four T/C rifles (still have a Renegade and a New Englander) and a dozen plus Contender barrels with the same sights. What I find that really helps me when target shooting is to used a well defined point to aim at.
This is a 50 yard offhand group with the New Englander (Never get tired of showing this target. :rotf: )
I set the bottom of the diamond on the middle of the front sight. I have begun to see why the 6:00 hold is used. I am not abled to pick out the black sights on a black bull as I once was. Make that three front sights on a target blur.
On one of my Contender barrels (a 7-1/2" SSK custom chopped & crowned Super 14) I kept the stock rear sight but added a 3/32" Williams white bead that just fills the square notch. I can throw 4" groups at 100 yards with that .44 Mag barrel and the open, iron sights when firing with my butt on the ground and elbows resting on my knees.
This is a 50 yard offhand group with the New Englander (Never get tired of showing this target. :rotf: )
I set the bottom of the diamond on the middle of the front sight. I have begun to see why the 6:00 hold is used. I am not abled to pick out the black sights on a black bull as I once was. Make that three front sights on a target blur.
On one of my Contender barrels (a 7-1/2" SSK custom chopped & crowned Super 14) I kept the stock rear sight but added a 3/32" Williams white bead that just fills the square notch. I can throw 4" groups at 100 yards with that .44 Mag barrel and the open, iron sights when firing with my butt on the ground and elbows resting on my knees.
