Pawn shop 1858

[fastburn]

reblued the barrel and cylinder cleaned her up little filing and sanding, havent sighted it in yet. also found 2 1851 brass frames for 100$ for the pair that needed the same tlc PAWN SHOPS!!!!!! they dont want to mess with them or dont know how

 

[fastburn]

just to clairify ; thats not only the frames, complete .44 cal. 1851s

 

[fastburn]

 

[fastburn]

 

[fastburn]

Only markings on that 1858

 

[Justin.44]

Same proof marks (in same location) as my Euroarms 1858. Date code AC is for 1977.

 

[Grenadier1758]

@fastburn, are you sure there are no markings under the loading lever? It will be very close to the frame.

 

[fastburn]

No markings there

 

[fastburn]

FIE i believe stands for firearms import export but the exporter PR is a mystery

 

[BallBoy]

google
FIE & PR together and you’ll find there are many references that may help solve the mystery.
Derek

 

[Grenadier1758]

Ultimately, finding the actual maker may not matter. You do have the verification of proof so at your pistol's basic construction, it should hold together. While according to the proof date code, it should have markings that would have identified the maker, these have apparently been removed. Maybe if this was a kit and the builder decided to "defarb" it or make it appear more "original" by removing some of the stampings. Look for minor differences in the barrel across the flats dimensions from side to side. Not a big issue, just a bit of knowledge about the assembly of the revolver.

At this point have someone with some experience in percussion revolvers take a critical look. If it functions as a revolver by locking up at each notch in the cylinder and the hand advances the cylinder easily and the nipples appear to be in good shape (not mushroomed at the tip). Measure the tip of the nipple cone to determine if the nipples are for #10 (0.155") or #11 (0.166) percussion caps. You can pop a cylinder full of caps to determine if the hammer fit and main spring strength are good without putting stress on the revolver.

Look at the cylinder to barrel gap. This should be in the region of approximately 0.008" to 0.003" for the cylinder to spin freely and not clog up with black powder fouling.

 

[hawkeye2]

Good advise from Grenadier1758. If it functions correctly don't worry, just have a good time with it. If it's an ASP/Euroarms you won't find any parts for it but other manufacturer's '58 Remington parts can be adapted. I have an ASP with a recent manufactured Pietta hammer in it, just had to be narrowed to fit the frame and fine tuned. I have a Euroarms that needs a hammer and trigger and it looks like I'll not have a problem adapting Pietta parts specially if I use the trigger/bolt spring too.

 

[wb78963]

No exposed barrel threads at the rear of the barrel like the early Remingtons. All other '58 repros have exposed threads. Look for faint markings under the barrel above the loading lever. Quite possible a small circle with DGG in it. It's possible it was a kit gun and the markings were lost when it was finished. Yes, ASP kit guns were marked, I have one that was built by someone.

they are ALL kit guns.