Pecatonica Build

[sean30ber]

Ive decided to build a Hawkens full stock Flint from Pecatonica instead of replacing the stock on my T/C. Ive got a bit of wood experience so im not worried about it. I was wondering if anyone has built a kit from them and how is the Quality. Im going with the # 4 Curly Maple, L&R Classic flint Lock and Davis Double set flat front. Any advice would be appreciated. Also, I was thinking about a patch box ordered from Hawkens. The kit doesnt come with the box. Is it PC for the earlier models of Hawkens. Thanks Sean

 

[rabjr]

Should be a fun project sean30ber. :thumbsup:

I just used one of theit #2 maple full stock Hawken's and furniture for a project. Only change I made was the lock, trigger and trigger guard. Made my Uncle a very nice unique Bear gun.

 

[TANSTAAFL]

Ive decided to build a Hawkens full stock Flint from Pecatonica instead of replacing the stock on my T/C. Ive got a bit of wood experience so im not worried about it. I was wondering if anyone has built a kit from them and how is the Quality. Im going with the # 4 Curly Maple, L&R Classic flint Lock and Davis Double set flat front. Any advice would be appreciated. Also, I was thinking about a patch box ordered from Hawkens. The kit doesnt come with the box. Is it PC for the earlier models of Hawkens. Thanks Sean

If this is your first attempt at stocking a ML, you have picked one of the difficult ones. The Hawken at first glance may appear to be a plain Jane rifle, but is fraught with many subtleties of architecture, it is those very subtle little things that make the difference in looks of final piece. OTOH, as I understand it, a FS Hawken Flinter is hard to document, so you will be mostly winging it as to interpretation.

 

[sean30ber]

There sending it 98% inlet except the patch box. They said it would only need final fitting.

 

[TANSTAAFL]

There sending it 98% inlet except the patch box. They said it would only need final fitting.

Inlet is one thing, final shaping of the wood is another thing altogether.

 

[straightcut]

Hey Sean,

I've got about the same setup that I purchased from a different vendor and have been hesitant to start the build after hearing similar comments to those posted here. I've been giving some thought to building a full stock flint Leman rifle just for practice. I hate to buy and build a Leman when it's the Hawken that I really want to build, own and shoot.
Incidentally, I'm located in Phoenix should you want to see what the kit looks like.
Mark

 

[sean30ber]

Im begining to think I should go with the cheaper $90 Grade 1 stock and try my hand befor getting the high grade Curley. Ive done a bit of carving and shaping on other projects and i wont be afraid to mess up on it to much if its a cheaper piece of wood. I can picture it in my mind. Swamp Rat, How much shaping did you have to do with yours?

 

[MikeChapin]

I built one of those last year. I had the barrel and lock for about 20 years and decided to put together a full stock flint Hawken. I got the stock from TOW. It was a pre-inlet Pecatonica second. Normally I don't like pre-inlet stocks but this one was pre-inlet for the lock I had and was the right barrel size and the price was right.

The parts went in very fast. Even the buttplate went on with minimum fuss. TANSTAAFL is right about the lines though. Since this is really a fantasy piece you do have a little leeway on lines. I ended up with a compromise between early model Hawken full stocks and Tennessee Mountain rifles. It's what I thought a very early flint Hawken would look like.

I did use a Sante Fe trigger guard from a rifle I lost in a fire. It looks nice on the rifle but an earlier squarish trigger guard would have been more in keeping with the styling I was going for.

The rifle came out great. The plain stock had some figure that wasn't apparent before it was stained. It shoots very well. The only gripe I have with it is that the pull is shorter than I like. I like a 15" pull and this one was already pre-inlet for a little over a 13 1/2" pull but it is nothing I can't live with.

 

[rabjr]

sean30ber ,

Really wasn't that bad. Probably the most time consuming was getting the lock panels and tang area just right. Remember though, I built my own gun, I did not build a Hawken. Their forearm is quite thick and will need a lot of thinning down too.

 

[Russ T Frizzen]

The plainer wood is probably more correct anyway. Just take your time--a Hawken properly and neatly made is easily one of the most elegant rifles ever.

 

[sean30ber]

Ive got all the time in the world to build it. Im a bit anal and will walk away if frustrated and come back later. Ive got my T/C Hawkins to shoot in the mean time so I can still get my fix during the construction. Thanks guys I know ill have lots of questions once I start.

 

[Tommy Bruce]

Im begining to think I should go with the cheaper $90 Grade 1 stock and try my hand befor getting the high grade Curley. Ive done a bit of carving and shaping on other projects and i wont be afraid to mess up on it to much if its a cheaper piece of wood. I can picture it in my mind. Swamp Rat, How much shaping did you have to do with yours?

Hey Sean, a good friend once told me it's best to end up with a cheaper piece of firewood than an expensive one. Curly maple can sometimes be hard to work. It sounds like you have enough woodworking experience to handle one of these. Just remember not to get in a hurry that last 2% is a lot harder than the first 2%. I will warn you that once you do one of these a sickness will set in and your days and nights will be filled with thoughts of a new project. HAVE FUN and ENJOY!!!