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Pecatonica Rigby - how hard?
- Thread starter jaxenro
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I keep looking at this one Jax myself. It don't look all that difficult to build, just wish The stock was inletted for the 31" Jaeger barrel like the one on Tracks site.
I looked it over a few times. No underrib, no ramrod, hell it's nothing but a lock, stock, and barrel, with a few incidentals like a trigger, guard, and all that.
Most all I have seen were checkered at the wrist, that is definitely beyond my abilities but I suppose I could farm that part out? Do you finish the stock before sending it to be checkered, just seal it, or what?
Most all I have seen were checkered at the wrist, that is definitely beyond my abilities but I suppose I could farm that part out? Do you finish the stock before sending it to be checkered, just seal it, or what?
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Tracks site shows an under rib.
Checkering can be added at anytime. Shouldn't be hard to find someone who does it if you want to go that route.
Checkering can be added at anytime. Shouldn't be hard to find someone who does it if you want to go that route.
Never built one, but have looked at it closely and would like to one day. maybe a switch barrel with fast slug barrel and slow roundball barrel.
If one wanted to make a field rifle those additions could be made.
Since they were predominately a long range target rifle(with a very interesting history I might add).
Ramrod, pipes and such were considered unneccesary. The Ramrod was part of the bench kit.
As far as the checkering goes most pictures I have seen were the old english flat top checkering. Should be fairly easy to layout and cut with a benchknife or even a file.
If one wanted to make a field rifle those additions could be made.
Since they were predominately a long range target rifle(with a very interesting history I might add).
Ramrod, pipes and such were considered unneccesary. The Ramrod was part of the bench kit.
As far as the checkering goes most pictures I have seen were the old english flat top checkering. Should be fairly easy to layout and cut with a benchknife or even a file.
I have considered this one myself. Worth noting: The guys that shoot long range muzzleloaders tell me the stock has way too much drop at heel to make it comfortable with heavy charges from prone. Ought to be great for a hunting rifle, though.
From the pictures I have seen, I'm guessing the underib is optional?
For a Sporting rifle for field use, and to carry a ramrod on board. You would want he underib.
For a target rifle it would not be needed.
On a side note,I got to thinking last night and can think of no reason the checkering could not be done with a woodburner.
For a Sporting rifle for field use, and to carry a ramrod on board. You would want he underib.
For a target rifle it would not be needed.
On a side note,I got to thinking last night and can think of no reason the checkering could not be done with a woodburner.
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Checkering tools also maybe something to mess around, practice with. You just might find yourself able to do it.
I'm thinking a target rifle, so no underrib and the ramrod and cleaning supplies and everything in a fitted box with the rifle.
I was looking over the "checkering" on my shotgun again last night, it is really just a flat checkering made by cutting parallel lines, not the diamond points I see on the more modern guns. It dates from the 1825-1841 time period so when did the more modern diamond point type come in?
I think with a bit of practice, I might be able to do it!
I was looking over the "checkering" on my shotgun again last night, it is really just a flat checkering made by cutting parallel lines, not the diamond points I see on the more modern guns. It dates from the 1825-1841 time period so when did the more modern diamond point type come in?
I think with a bit of practice, I might be able to do it!
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Don't see why not, draw the lines where you want, then follow the lines.
I think if you are going to try checkering, you should invest a few bucks in checkering tools.
These are special files which come in several different spacings (lines per inch).
The ones I have were made by Dem-Bart and although you can buy just one handle and several different file tips, I would recommend getting a seperate handle for each tip.
If you are going to buy some of these, I would recommend a single V (#1). This cutter is used to layout the first line and to clean up small areas where the double cutters are too large to use.
You will also need to get a spacing cutter (#3 left hand, or #4 right hand) or better yet, both.
This spacing cutter has one V shaped file with another toothless V for following the last cut and forming the next line or cut.
The #2 cutter is a double V which cuts with both blades and is used for deepening the original cuts.
To achieve a close approximation of the English style just don't cut the depth down as deeply as is done for the modern diamond point style.
Also, I would suggest using tools with the wider spacing such as the 16 or 20 lines per inch.
Although there are "beading" cutters, I don't think they are needed for the old fashioned checkering found on the old guns.
From what I've found, the checkering on the Penn/Kentucky rifles was done for decoration, not to improve one's grip so it rarely had pointed diamonds.
Here's an example of my attempt to checker a Late Lancaster using Fordneys pattern:
Although it isn't necessarly PC, I've found these little tools can also be used to create backgrounds as in the center of this carving:
As for the Rigby, properly fitting the Bar Lock looks like it would be the challanging part of the job.
These are special files which come in several different spacings (lines per inch).
The ones I have were made by Dem-Bart and although you can buy just one handle and several different file tips, I would recommend getting a seperate handle for each tip.
If you are going to buy some of these, I would recommend a single V (#1). This cutter is used to layout the first line and to clean up small areas where the double cutters are too large to use.
You will also need to get a spacing cutter (#3 left hand, or #4 right hand) or better yet, both.
This spacing cutter has one V shaped file with another toothless V for following the last cut and forming the next line or cut.
The #2 cutter is a double V which cuts with both blades and is used for deepening the original cuts.
To achieve a close approximation of the English style just don't cut the depth down as deeply as is done for the modern diamond point style.
Also, I would suggest using tools with the wider spacing such as the 16 or 20 lines per inch.
Although there are "beading" cutters, I don't think they are needed for the old fashioned checkering found on the old guns.
From what I've found, the checkering on the Penn/Kentucky rifles was done for decoration, not to improve one's grip so it rarely had pointed diamonds.
Here's an example of my attempt to checker a Late Lancaster using Fordneys pattern:
Although it isn't necessarly PC, I've found these little tools can also be used to create backgrounds as in the center of this carving:
As for the Rigby, properly fitting the Bar Lock looks like it would be the challanging part of the job.
CrackStock
69 Cal.
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I saw a guy make a checkering tool from old hacksaw blades that he used sections with teeth down for cutters and others recessed with teeth up to make spacing shims. Are the commercially made tools all that much more sophisticated?
CS
CS
The Dem-Bart tools consist of a wood handle with a steel shank. This has a little slot thru the tip of the steel and a small crosshole drilled thru it.
The tips are created out of a single piece of steel. They have a small tab on the back of them which fits into the slot in the handle. There is a small crosshole in them so you can pin them onto the handle.
These tips are precision ground and have very fine file teeth formed into them so the actually file their way into the wood.
Because they file their way into the wood, they are not likely to "catch" or grab the wood and jump into the wrong area but, they can jump if your not careful with them.
Anyone who buys some of these should count on spending more than a few hours practicing with them before assaulting (I mean working) on a real gunstock. :grin:
zonie
The tips are created out of a single piece of steel. They have a small tab on the back of them which fits into the slot in the handle. There is a small crosshole in them so you can pin them onto the handle.
These tips are precision ground and have very fine file teeth formed into them so the actually file their way into the wood.
Because they file their way into the wood, they are not likely to "catch" or grab the wood and jump into the wrong area but, they can jump if your not careful with them.
Anyone who buys some of these should count on spending more than a few hours practicing with them before assaulting (I mean working) on a real gunstock. :grin:
zonie
Check rifling twist offered before you jump on the ToW kits as none of the barrels they offer as part of the kit have sufficiently fast twist to shoot a truly heavy long range bullet.
The Pecatonica barrels will work, but I would like just a little faster twist for the .40 caliber barrel to handle the longest bullet I can stuff down the bore.
Green Mountain has fast barrels, nominally for BPCR rifles that can be installed.
The Pecatonica barrels will work, but I would like just a little faster twist for the .40 caliber barrel to handle the longest bullet I can stuff down the bore.
Green Mountain has fast barrels, nominally for BPCR rifles that can be installed.
Diaper Work?? Now THAT would explain the sulphurous smell when I shoot it!! :rotf: :grin:
Melchior Fordney seemed to be fond of the skip line checkering. There are a number of different photos of his guns around and many of them have it.
On at least one gun, he went so far as to install small headed brass tacks in the center of the wide diamonds.
Melchior was killed by his neighbor on Saturday, October 17th 1846 by John Haggerty for trying to prevent Haggerty from killing his horse. Haggerty used an axe to kill Melchior and a Mrs Tipple. He was hanged for his actions.
Henry Leman, the well known gunmaker did his apprenticeship under Melchior in 1828.
zonie
Melchior Fordney seemed to be fond of the skip line checkering. There are a number of different photos of his guns around and many of them have it.
On at least one gun, he went so far as to install small headed brass tacks in the center of the wide diamonds.
Melchior was killed by his neighbor on Saturday, October 17th 1846 by John Haggerty for trying to prevent Haggerty from killing his horse. Haggerty used an axe to kill Melchior and a Mrs Tipple. He was hanged for his actions.
Henry Leman, the well known gunmaker did his apprenticeship under Melchior in 1828.
zonie
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