How Hard would a Pecatonica River gun be to build for a first time. I saw on the website that they offer services like fitting the buttplate and installing the breach plug and a few other things. Any one ever built one? Is the quality good?
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Pecatonica River Kit
- Thread starter ian45662
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barebackjack
40 Cal.
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Im building their lehigh kit right now. We had some small snafu's to begin with, but they are a great company who go the extra mile to accomodate their customers.
Their wood is graded at least a grade if not two higher than what is advertised, I got a grade #2 that has very nice tight figure throughout.
I just told them that this was my first build like this and they really helped me out with any problems and questions I have had so far. They even through in a siler lock (kit came with a L&R) for no extra charge!
Great company :hatsoff:
Their wood is graded at least a grade if not two higher than what is advertised, I got a grade #2 that has very nice tight figure throughout.
I just told them that this was my first build like this and they really helped me out with any problems and questions I have had so far. They even through in a siler lock (kit came with a L&R) for no extra charge!
Great company :hatsoff:
CrackStock
69 Cal.
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This depends upon the specific gun that interests you.
PRs are more a collection of parts than true kits. They have what a gun needs, but there is a lot of work to be done in some cases -- less in others.
Which did you have in mind?
CS
PRs are more a collection of parts than true kits. They have what a gun needs, but there is a lot of work to be done in some cases -- less in others.
Which did you have in mind?
CS
I just built a Pecatonica Fusil De Chasse. It was pretty easy, you do have to drill and tap, fit the breachplug, do some inletting, dovetail for barrel lug, solder sight and barel lugs, and a lot of wood removal. Probably the hardest part is to remove all the wood that needs to go and still keep the right shape. It all depends on your skills.
Pecatonica is a great outfit to work with. I just finished a rifle buying the barrel and some other parts from them. I had Dick install the breach plug and mill for the front and rear sights. Dovetailed the underlugs myself. Best thing I can tell you is buy the book or video and don't be in a hurry. Jim H
The first non factory "kit" I built was from Pecatonica River. Sense those days, I've built over 12 of their different rifles.
Dick Greensides, the owner of PR produces some of the best rifle and pistol kits around.
The stocks sold by Track of the Wolf are made by Dick and his prices are generally less expensive.
As was mentioned, he grades his Curly Maple lower than many other companies so even the lower #2 and #3 grades are nicely striped. I usually order the #3 and have never been disappointed.
His fees for cutting dovetails and installing breechplugs are exceptionally low.
Although he will install the buttplate, I suggest that you save this job for yourself so that you can make the length of pull correct for your body.
If you decide to go whole hog and buy a rifle with a swamped barrel, by all means pay him the extra little bit to cut the barrel channel. It is well worth it.
As for the difficulty, these guns require some knowledge on the part of the builder.
The screw holes are not drilled or threaded, the stock has a lot of wood that needs to be removed, many things like the sideplate, trigger guard, butt plate etc are rough sand castings that require filing, sanding and polishing as well as inletting them into the wood in the right place.
If you decide to build one of these, first, before you order any parts invest in one of the many books that describe all of the steps. They (it) will pay off in both the short and the long run.
(An excellent book is "The Art of Building the Pennsylvania Longrifle".
zonie
Dick Greensides, the owner of PR produces some of the best rifle and pistol kits around.
The stocks sold by Track of the Wolf are made by Dick and his prices are generally less expensive.
As was mentioned, he grades his Curly Maple lower than many other companies so even the lower #2 and #3 grades are nicely striped. I usually order the #3 and have never been disappointed.
His fees for cutting dovetails and installing breechplugs are exceptionally low.
Although he will install the buttplate, I suggest that you save this job for yourself so that you can make the length of pull correct for your body.
If you decide to go whole hog and buy a rifle with a swamped barrel, by all means pay him the extra little bit to cut the barrel channel. It is well worth it.
As for the difficulty, these guns require some knowledge on the part of the builder.
The screw holes are not drilled or threaded, the stock has a lot of wood that needs to be removed, many things like the sideplate, trigger guard, butt plate etc are rough sand castings that require filing, sanding and polishing as well as inletting them into the wood in the right place.
If you decide to build one of these, first, before you order any parts invest in one of the many books that describe all of the steps. They (it) will pay off in both the short and the long run.
(An excellent book is "The Art of Building the Pennsylvania Longrifle".
zonie
Goldhunter
54 Cal.
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+3 or 4 on the PR parts. As Zonie stated, Dick Greensides is great guy to work with. I'm building their Dickert parts collection right now. This is my second stock from them, the first being a stock for my TC Hawken.
I can only say what the other guys have said, both Dick and son are great to deal with. Ask questions of them and heed there advice as it will be correct. I have had 3 kits / parts sets from them and am currently building a Jaeger. Never had so much fun with my pants on!! Go slow particularly on the finishing. Rub it all down many times going thru the grits. Put your feet up when you get bored of rubbing and go back the next day. GO SLOOOOW.
Good luck
Dobson
Good luck
Dobson
CrackStock
69 Cal.
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His Tennessee generally comes with a Siler Germanic lock which is not correct for that style. Call him and see if he will put out a more correct lock for you.
I know -- I have one from him.
This is not to say that his product is otherwise lacking or that he is anything but honorable and pleasant in his dealings. He is a good vendor and I suggest him for specific guns.
CS
I know -- I have one from him.
This is not to say that his product is otherwise lacking or that he is anything but honorable and pleasant in his dealings. He is a good vendor and I suggest him for specific guns.
CS
Ian: I'm betting that if Dick has a more suitable lock for the Tennessee rifle, he would be glad to exchange it for the Siler lock. He might want a few dollars more to do it but because he will sell the stock without any lock at all, I'm sure he would send a more fitting one.
As you may know, Pecatonica River will supply pre inletted stocks where the mortice for the lock is already about 95% done for you.
This is only done for the lock he usually sells with the kit because his tooling is set up for that lock.
If he does substitute locks, I doubt that he will cut the mortise for a different lock, which means the builder will have to know where to locate it and know how to cut the mortise for it.
In my opinion, that is not a task for a first time builder.
For this reason, I strongly suggest that the rifle be bought with the standard Siler lock he offers.
I can assure you that except for some folks on this (and a similar) Forum, no one will even suspect that the lock isn't shaped exactly right.
In fact, most people will be so amazed with your rifle, they won't say a word even if they know the lock isn't exactly right.
zonie
As you may know, Pecatonica River will supply pre inletted stocks where the mortice for the lock is already about 95% done for you.
This is only done for the lock he usually sells with the kit because his tooling is set up for that lock.
If he does substitute locks, I doubt that he will cut the mortise for a different lock, which means the builder will have to know where to locate it and know how to cut the mortise for it.
In my opinion, that is not a task for a first time builder.
For this reason, I strongly suggest that the rifle be bought with the standard Siler lock he offers.
I can assure you that except for some folks on this (and a similar) Forum, no one will even suspect that the lock isn't shaped exactly right.
In fact, most people will be so amazed with your rifle, they won't say a word even if they know the lock isn't exactly right.
zonie
This will be my first build and so I really wont be to worried about it being ultra P.C.(sorry if I offend anyone) This gun will be for plinking and squirl hunting. Perhaps my next build I would go with something a little more in depth and more P.C but for now its not a big concern. The thought had crossed my mind to buy a blank stock and try to build from that but that would probably not be a good idea would it since I have never done anything like this before
CrackStock
69 Cal.
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Ian,
2 comments:
One is that Zonie is right in saying that Dick will work with you, but that cutting the lock mortise is a tall order for a new builder. The side panel may not even accommodate a correct lock. (I am hoping that Dick amends his Tennessee to a more correct rifle design in the near future)
Two is that once you have this rifle, you will be surprised at how often that lock will be pointed out to you. But, it is your rifle and therefore only needs to please you, but I wanted you to have the info to make an informed decision. Having said that, my Tennessee with a Siler germanic lock has taken a lot of squirrels, rabbits and shooting matches over the past decade, so it is a proven shooter and my favorite rifle for off hand.
I wish you well whichever way you go.
CS
2 comments:
One is that Zonie is right in saying that Dick will work with you, but that cutting the lock mortise is a tall order for a new builder. The side panel may not even accommodate a correct lock. (I am hoping that Dick amends his Tennessee to a more correct rifle design in the near future)
Two is that once you have this rifle, you will be surprised at how often that lock will be pointed out to you. But, it is your rifle and therefore only needs to please you, but I wanted you to have the info to make an informed decision. Having said that, my Tennessee with a Siler germanic lock has taken a lot of squirrels, rabbits and shooting matches over the past decade, so it is a proven shooter and my favorite rifle for off hand.
I wish you well whichever way you go.
CS
Guest
Dick, can and will cut the mortice for any of the locks he offers in his kits. He offers a more appropriate lock, and you can have it cut into a Tennessee precarve, as long as it will fit the profile. It just may take a week or so longer to get the kit. Shouldn't cost any more, and 1. you get to chat with Dick, and 2. Now you will have a personally customised kit. :winking:
Bill
I started with nothing, and still have most of it left!
Bill
I started with nothing, and still have most of it left!
Guest
I would go with the late Ketland, or the Manton. Dick cut me a lock mortice for a Late Ketland into a curly Ash early Lancaster stock. This is going to be in .58cal, and I want to put a wider buttplate on the rifle, and needed more wood at the butt. No big deal, and no extra charge, and only about a week extra wait. Talk to him.
Bill
Bill
