pedersoli .54 frontier

[hexblade]

I am soo freeking happy, just got home with my brand new .54 cal Frontier (flinter) in maple stock, she is something to look at, I know they are expensive, had a base model and maple one on the counter, something inside said, get the good looking one.

Anyways, here I am at home and now few questions.

What is the best way to clean this gun before I shoot it, also I have looked and can not figure out how to remove the barrel?

Cheers

 

[ebiggs1]

Congratulations! You will love it. Clean it with brake cleaner and than oil it well.

 

[tg]

I think there are screws up thru the bottom of the rammrod thimbles and a tang screw at the rear of the barrel which can easily be cleaned without removal, the lock retaining screws shoud also be removed as often one or more will pass thru the breech plug or be in the way of the rammrod, see the archives for barrel cleaning without removal, it is quite simple without all the gizmos some would like to sell you.

 

[Zonie]

After a bit of digging on Google using Pedersoli + Frontier I found an Italian web site showing all of the long arms they make.
By clicking on the Frontier and doing a bit more digging into their offerings I came up with a lot of information in Italian plus a PDF file showing the exploded view of the guns parts. http://www.davide-pedersoli.com/sc...frontier-frontier-maple-percussion-model.html
Notice towards the bottom on the right side there is a "download" and a PDF symbol. Download it and save it on your computer to see the exploded view.
Based on this there appears to be two barrel lugs on the bottom of the barrel that align with the ramrod thimbles. A screw is shown going thru the thimbles and it looks like they would screw into the barrels underlugs.

Remove the ramrod and the screws.
Also, as was mentioned in another post, loosen the screws that hold the lock in place.
With the lock screws loosened, tap their heads with a plastic handled screw driver. This will start to drive the lock out of the stock.
Loosen the lock screws further and repeat the tapping until the lock and the screws are removed.

Once the lock screws are removed you may have to remove the screw at the breeches tang to remove the barrel.

As was mentioned, use a degreasing agent like disk brake cleaner to remove the shipping grease from the bore. Be sure to oil the bore with a good rust preventative after using the brake cleaner or any time after you clean the bore.

Inspect the inside of the lock and lubricate all areas where parts move.

Reassemble your gun and your thru.

I know your going to enjoy shooting your gun and hopefully you will read the information about shooting black powder guns here on our forum.

Enjoy!

 

[hexblade]

Thanks for the replies, I will get some brake cleaner today, for the muzzle lubrication will TC Bore Butter work well, or should I be looking at something else?

That PDF file is good and helps me understand how it all fits.

Thanks again.

 

[ebiggs1]

No, Bore Butter is a patch lube and does not protect the bore in my experience with it. I like it as a patch lube because it works as well as any and is commonly available but olive oil works good too and it is commonly available.
Use any brand name gun oil you like but use real gun oil. For instance Rem oil, Barricade or Hoppe’s gun oil, there are several out there.

 

[ebiggs1]

P.S.
Bore Butter passes the Miss Elizabeth smell test which you may or may not need at your house! Some of the other patch lubes do not!

 

[BrownBear]

I'll confirm that you have to remove the tang bolt in addition to the barrel underlugs to remove the barrel.

One "fine tuning" point I've found with the Frontier. For best cleaning and most consistent performance, I find it best to remove the vent hole liner for barrel cleaning, then use a pipe cleaner to reach in and thoroughly clean the breech. It's pretty small in there, and if you don't get all the grease out, the powder isn't going to fall freely back in front of the vent hole. Along the same lines, if you get any black powder residue buildup in there long term, it can interfere.

I paid almost nothing for a Frontier from a guy who complained it was really inconsistent in the ignition department. He was also a guy who didn't believe in removing the vent liner for cleaning. I can honestly say that by removing the liner when I clean, I've never had a single failure to fire. If the pan powder goes, so does the main charge.

 

[hexblade]

Could I get at the breach with one of the smaller caliber brushes at the end of the rod?

cheers

 

[BrownBear]

Could I get at the breach with one of the smaller caliber brushes at the end of the rod?

cheers

That's what I use to get at the front of the breech, but there's a 90 from that over to the flash hole I doubt a brush will turn into. I pull the liner and get at that with the pipe cleaner.

It's not a big deal if you're using a flush tube or removing the barrel to clean it. In either case the large volume of water moving through will clean it. I don't particularly like to take the barrel off more than once or twice a year, and I always make an ungodly mess with the flush tubes.

My usual practice is to pop off the lock, remove the flash hole liner, then lay the rifle with the lock side down and the barrel slightly elevated. Then I use a series of damp patches to clean the bore, a patch wrapped around a 22 cal brush to get at the breech, then damp pipe cleaners to clean the flame channel. All told, 5 minutes.

Once I'm sure everything is clean, I run patches (and pipe cleaners) with alcohol, then dry patches. Follow that with an oiled patch and pipe cleaner, and I call it done.

I bet if you asked 20 flintlock shooters how they clean, you'll get at least 10 different answers.

 

[cutshurt]

Can I offer a ? for any of the members who have the tool already, would any of you allow your tool for coneing be used by hexblade to do the work and save some dough. just a thought

Darrel

 

[sc45-70]

After you are through cleaning and oiling your rifle, it's helpful to store your rifle muzzle DOWN.
This helps keep oil out of the small breech area.

 

[Jean-Luc]

To clean muzzleloaders I still use the good old moose milk.
For flinters that have a barrel uneasy to take down I plug the vent and pour hot moose milk in the barrel and use a bore brush. The brushing has to be quite energetic to clean effectively the fouling. I then return the rifle for the moose milk to pour out of it. I do this three times to make sure everything is clean. On a Frontier it is also necessary to take the removable vent out to clean it and also to finish cleaning the breech. The last step is to run a couple dry patches down the barrel to dry it.
Moose milk will protects the steel from rust, but to make sure I run a slightly greased patch down the bore but never any oil since oil is shortest way to misfires in a flintlock.

I have done it that way for over 30 years and never had the slightest rust spot or any misfires or hangfires.