Pedersoli Blue Ridge Flintlock

[Kyle Kalasnik]

Just wondering if a Blue Ridge Flintlock would fall into the American Revolution and/or War of 1812 time period? Thank you in advance.

Respectfully,
Kyle Kalasnik

 

[Zonie]

IMO, it would fall into the 1800-1830 time period.

I may be wrong but I think the butt is too thin to fit into the Revolutionary War period.
The guns of Revolutionary time period had wide butt plates, often being over 2" wide. The Pedersoli's narrower butt would indicate a later time period.

 

[Kyle Kalasnik]

IMO, it would fall into the 1800-1830 time period.

I may be wrong but I think the butt is too thin to fit into the Revolutionary War period.
The guns of Revolutionary time period had wide butt plates, often being over 2" wide. The Pedersoli's narrower butt would indicate a later time period.

Thank you for the information. I am just getting in to flintlocks and my knowledge is very limited.

 

[Loyalist Dave]

IMO, it would fall into the 1800-1830 time period.
I may be wrong but I think the butt is too thin to fit into the Revolutionary War period.
The guns of Revolutionary time period had wide butt plates, often being over 2" wide. The Pedersoli's narrower butt would indicate a later time period.

So would the indications from the rear sight, and the color case hardening of the lock, but ...

But Zonie is being generous, as it wouldn't "fit" into any time period, due to so many different elements (imho)…


It has a large lock, which often means AWI or earlier, but it's color case hardened, which often means post 1800.
It has sparse brass hardware, and no patch box of any sort, nor side plate, which means...?
IF ya get the .54 caliber, in a long rifle means AWI or earlier, but then again.....
The stock shape is 20th century, the lock has a wood screw in addition to the lock bolt...which is 20th century Italian, as are the ramrod thimbles being used as washers to hold in the barrel instead of keys or pins...

They tend to be good shooting rifles. You won't be turned away from an F&I event nor an AWI event if you're carrying one. To get the most accuracy out of them, I'd go for the .54, swap out the front sight for a thin front sight, and I'd polish the barrel a bit to remove any burrs.

LD

 

[Kyle Kalasnik]

So would the indications from the rear sight, and the color case hardening of the lock, but ...

But Zonie is being generous, as it wouldn't "fit" into any time period, due to so many different elements (imho)…


It has a large lock, which often means AWI or earlier, but it's color case hardened, which often means post 1800.
It has sparse brass hardware, and no patch box of any sort, nor side plate, which means...?
IF ya get the .54 caliber, in a long rifle means AWI or earlier, but then again.....
The stock shape is 20th century, the lock has a wood screw in addition to the lock bolt...which is 20th century Italian, as are the ramrod thimbles being used as washers to hold in the barrel instead of keys or pins...

They tend to be good shooting rifles. You won't be turned away from an F&I event nor an AWI event if you're carrying one. To get the most accuracy out of them, I'd go for the .54, swap out the front sight for a thin front sight, and I'd polish the barrel a bit to remove any burrs.

LD

I really appreciate it.

Respectfully,
Kyle Kalasnik

 

[Marinekayak]

I got one about two weeks ago from Cabelas in .54. I haven't shot it yet but my observations of it are positive.
1. Wood to metal fit is excellent.
2. Sights are ok, everyone says front sight is too thick. I generally shoot a 6 oclock hold so I don't think its too thick but I do think the rear sight notch is too small and will probably open it up.
3. Wood is ok, functional but plain.
4. The barrel is "blued" I think its either cerakote or some kind of spray enamel its more of a matt black than a shiny blue.
5. It feels lighter than it is. Its a little barrel heavy, the point of balance when carrying seems to be right around the rear sight.
6. Its my first flinter but the lock throws a lot of sparks.
7. The ramrod is manure, its way to flexible and even the finish seems "cheaper" than the rest of the rifle. I have a steel range rod and I will probably replace the rifle rod with a nice hickory rod or a Delrin rod for field use.

Also, even though its a cabelas Blue Ridge there are no cabelas markings anywhere the only marking are Pedersoli. As soon as my schedule permits I am off to the range and I will post a range report when I get the chance.

 

[Kyle Kalasnik]

I got one about two weeks ago from Cabelas in .54. I haven't shot it yet but my observations of it are positive.
1. Wood to metal fit is excellent.
2. Sights are ok, everyone says front sight is too thick. I generally shoot a 6 oclock hold so I don't think its too thick but I do think the rear sight notch is too small and will probably open it up.
3. Wood is ok, functional but plain.
4. The barrel is "blued" I think its either cerakote or some kind of spray enamel its more of a matt black than a shiny blue.
5. It feels lighter than it is. Its a little barrel heavy, the point of balance when carrying seems to be right around the rear sight.
6. Its my first flinter but the lock throws a lot of sparks.
7. The ramrod is manure, its way to flexible and even the finish seems "cheaper" than the rest of the rifle. I have a steel range rod and I will probably replace the rifle rod with a nice hickory rod or a Delrin rod for field use.

Also, even though its a cabelas Blue Ridge there are no cabelas markings anywhere the only marking are Pedersoli. As soon as my schedule permits I am off to the range and I will post a range report when I get the chance.

Yes that is where I saw it as well. It caught my eye as I am just starting to get into flintlocks.

I am looking for both a smoothbore and a rifle that would have covered the American Revolution and War of 1812.

 

[Loyalist Dave]

Yes that is where I saw it as well. It caught my eye as I am just starting to get into flintlocks.

I am looking for both a smoothbore and a rifle that would have covered the American Revolution and War of 1812.

So....what's the budget?

IF you go with what "works", and you buy a Blue Ridge in .54 and an India origin, 1768 French Musket with bayonet from Loyalist Arms LLC Canada, you're looking at about $1500.00.

"Top end" I'd say a Kibler rifle kit, in-the-white, where you're going to sand, stain, and seal the stock, and a Pedersoli Charleville or 1795 Springfield musket you're looking at $3200.00.

LD

 

[Kyle Kalasnik]

So....what's the budget?

IF you go with what "works", and you buy a Blue Ridge in .54 and an India origin, 1768 French Musket with bayonet from Loyalist Arms LLC Canada, you're looking at about $1500.00.

"Top end" I'd say a Kibler rifle kit, in-the-white, where you're going to sand, stain, and seal the stock, and a Pedersoli Charleville or 1795 Springfield musket you're looking at $3200.00.

LD

The budget is $3-4000. Speaking of, what is everyone’s thoughts on Loyalists Arms?

 

[Loyalist Dave]

Speaking of, what is everyone’s thoughts on Loyalists Arms?

I can predict the following...,

Some will tell you any musket with an India origin is total junk, or a pipe bomb....
Some will tell you they work fine...like all four of mine ….
Some will tell you to go with the Pedersoli musket, for resale value and better wood to metal fit...

Of course, you could go with a Blue ridge for a rifle, and a Pedersoli Charleville with bayonet and be looking at $2350....

LD

 

[Kyle Kalasnik]

I can predict the following...,

Some will tell you any musket with an India origin is total junk, or a pipe bomb....
Some will tell you they work fine...like all four of mine ….
Some will tell you to go with the Pedersoli musket, for resale value and better wood to metal fit...

Of course, you could go with a Blue ridge for a rifle, and a Pedersoli Charleville with bayonet and be looking at $2350....

LD

Yes, I have heard a wide range of different opinions on the India types. Appreciate it.

 

[Grenadier1758]

I can predict the following...,

Some will tell you any musket with an India origin is total junk, or a pipe bomb....
Some will tell you they work fine...like all four of mine ….


LD

I have two muskets from Loyalist Arms. One is a Long Land Pattern and the other is an officer's/NCO light musket. Both are very good. There are several Loyalist Arms Land Pattern Muskets in my unit. These are also acceptable guns. In my opinion a better choice for AWI than the Blue Ridge Flintlock.

For 1812, I would consider the 1795 Springfield Musket from Loyalist Arms.
For the Rifle in the AWI, I would consider the Kibler Colonial Kit Rifle.
Total cost would be approaching $2000.

 

[Kyle Kalasnik]

I have two muskets from Loyalist Arms. One is a Long Land Pattern and the other is an officer's/NCO light musket. Both are very good. There are several Loyalist Arms Land Pattern Muskets in my unit. These are also acceptable guns. In my opinion a better choice for AWI than the Blue Ridge Flintlock.

For 1812, I would consider the 1795 Springfield Musket from Loyalist Arms.
For the Rifle in the AWI, I would consider the Kibler Colonial Kit Rifle.
Total cost would be approaching $2000.

I appreciate your helpful advice.

 

[Cowboy]

I have a Pedersoli Blue Ridge in .54 caliber. My initial observation is, it’s a descent rifle, easy on flint’s, sparks great, and very accurate. A little muzzle heavy on the front end when shooting off hand but I personally prefer that. I seem to hold it steadier with a little weight up front.

Metal to wood fit is very good. I will say that I hated the finish on the wood! I stripped mine down and refinished it to my liking.

Lastly, for the money you can’t beat it! Very dependable, well built, and extremely accurate if you do your part.

Respectfully, Cowboy

 

[Marinekayak]

Cowboy. I have not shot mine yet. I need to order flints. Have you tried the 7/8's from track of the Wolf? Also,how did you refinish yours? I was thinking that was a down th e road project.. Any load suggestions?

 

[Kyle Kalasnik]

I have a Pedersoli Blue Ridge in .54 caliber. My initial observation is, it’s a descent rifle, easy on flint’s, sparks great, and very accurate. A little muzzle heavy on the front end when shooting off hand but I personally prefer that. I seem to hold it steadier with a little weight up front.

Metal to wood fit is very good. I will say that I hated the finish on the wood! I stripped mine down and refinished it to my liking.

Lastly, for the money you can’t beat it! Very dependable, well built, and extremely accurate if you do your part.

Respectfully, Cowboy View attachment 23186View attachment 23187View attachment 23188View attachment 23189View attachment 23190

Beautiful!

 

[Cowboy]

I use 7/8 X 1”. I buy from TOW. They’re English knapped flint’s by Tom Fuller. Costs around $24 per dozen.

The factory finish is very thin and not durable. Because of that it’s very easy to strip. After I stripped the stock I applied a coat of black leather dye to the wood. Then used rubbing alcohol to blend in and lighten the color back out.

I used BC walnut stain. Applied several coats until I got the color shade I wanted. Lastly, I hand rubbed a small amount of Tru-Oil into the stock. Finished it up with a final coat of Renaissance Wax.

For a load I use .530 ball, 70 gr. of Goex 3f, and .018 pillow ticking spit patch. I only shoot at the range or woods walk competition’s with that load. Works for me but of course you’ll have to develop your own my friend. I think it’s a good starting point though!

Respectfully, Cowboy

 

[Marinekayak]

Thanks!!!!

 

[Cowboy]

Any load suggestions?

I also forgot to mention? Be sure to bring a file when you work up your load. I worked my load up starting at 50 gr. Goex 3f and found mine liked 70 gr.

Worked my load up from a bench at 25 yards. Had to file down the front sight a bit to get the POI where I wanted it. Out of the box I’m willing to bet you’re gonna hit 4” to 6” low.

I’d shoot a shoot a shot group of 4 balls. A little filing and repeat. Continued until my POI was my POA. I took quite a bite of metal off the front sight to achieve the desired results. Windage was right on!

Anyway, that was my experience with working up my load my friend.

Deadly accurate now out to 100 yards.

Respectfully, Cowboy

 

[Critter Getter]

I like my Blue Ridge. It sparks great and is reliable. Mine shot a foot low or so out of the box. The barrel cuts patches and I have tried taking the Scotch Brite pads to it to help soften the burs in the barrel. Greg