Pedersoli Blue Ridge / Frontier lock failure

[LongRifleVaB]

Been a while since I posted, but I read the forums every week.

Thanks to your help and about 12 years, I am now the proud owner of 3 TVM guns and 3 Jim Chambers guns.

But I still own 2 "Cabelas Blue Ridge rifles" that I bought in 1999 and 2006.

Problem: Yesterday at range my Blue Ridge flintlock would not fire. What I mean by that is when I pulled the trigger, it goes click, but the cock does not move. Set trigger snaps, but nothing. I did get it to fire a few times by pulling hard on the main trigger. I removed the lock and the sear is nearly impossible to trip even manually with my thumb. Way too tight. Gun fired fine up until now, but let me say, it has a very low round count through it. Less than 50 rounds. Upon examination I found the screws to be loose on the sear and on the sear spring. So I snugged then down assuming that was the problem. Nope. There is even scoring on the sear. I pressed the triggers so hard it scored the metal. I plan to take it apart and look at it, but would like to get someone's opinion.

Good news is that I had purchased an L&R RPL lock for this gun 8 or 9 years ago and could not get it to fit just right, but I worked on that yesterday and got it working. So, I now have an L&R on the rifle, but would LOVE to fix the original lock. To quote Sgt York "the Lord do work in mysterious ways"

 

[Grimord]

Could the bridle screw be too tight?

 

[Grenadier1758]

Anything rubbing in the lock mortise?

Does the lock work when the lock is removed from the stock? Sounds like it is hard to move.

Take the lock apart. Look for rubbing and places where the moving parts are sticking. Maybe the grease from all those years of non use or corrosion have locked the moving parts up.

 

[bldtrailer]

Take the lock out and clean everything , while lock is out check triggers, sear and fire lock by hand. then you might lube (Jim chambers said the #1 reason for locks returned is NO LUBE)

 

[LongRifleVaB]

The lock indeed is hard to work out of the stock. You almost have to apply some rearwards pressure to the cock to get the sear to release. I will check the suggestions including taking it apart and looking for rub points. I will have to look up some of the parts that are mentioned, but that is easy.

Lock was bone dry, no lube whatsoever. I used some oil I use on 1911 rails, but was considering grease. I have never paid any attention to oiling my locks other than oiling down after cleaning.

Can you recommend oil/grease and the proper points to apply them?

 

[bpd303]

I use 3in1 oil for my locks. If it moves and is shiny it needs oil.

 

[Flintlock]

White lithium grease works well as does 3-1 oil, guns need lube. I second that it seems like something is binding. I think you should contact Pedersoli and explain to them, they may send you a new lock or ???. Don't take your lock apart without a proper spring vice.

 

[LongRifleVaB]

Thanks to all. I have found at least part of the problem.

Last night I loosened things up a bit in the lock, and things did work a little easier.

BUT in that process I found the problem.

The sear is soft, and when I say soft, it is impossible for me to describe in words just how soft. At first observation, I saw "cut marks" in it from where the trigger makes contact. Then I noticed that it is actually bent upwards. Not just a little. That is causing the trigger not to be able to engage the sear enough to trip it.

Believe it or not, I just bent it back down effortlessly. Again, I cannot describe how soft this metal is, it bends like a hard lead.

I still believe the lock is too tight, so I ordered a spring clamp from TOW to take it apart, but it needs a new sear for sure.

I wish I would have taken a picture of it before I bent it back down. But frankly I did not think of taking a picture because I did not think it would actually bend with so little effort. Never been so shocked

 

[Flintlock]

Send a message to Pedersoli, they may send you a new lock. Most of their locks are very good.