Pedersoli Classic Shotgun Lock Issues

[bbloom96]

I just got my first Pedersoli Classic SxS 12Ga. I was out patterning it for turkey season and noticed that frequently, the lock would catch at the first safety position during firing and would not fire. Then, If I tried to reset it, the lock would not reset and the hammer would only catch at the fire position, against the cap. Anyone ever experience issues with this? I am going to disassemble the lock and trigger to clean and lubricate, but I thought I should get some recommendations first.

Brian

 

[MDHunter]

https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/32-crockett-hammer-issues.116367/I had similar issues this may help you out.

 

[Britsmoothy]

Check the bridal screws are LOOSE.

 

[ZUG]

It sounds like there is an interference issue between the triggers or the sear of the lock and with the wood inletting. Pedersoli's quality control is not the best even at the prices they are asking for their stuff.
You can also check the screws on the lock but I an not one to leave screws loose - snug - yes - but not the German torque of "Gutentight" .

 

[Britsmoothy]

It sounds like there is an interference issue between the triggers or the sear of the lock and with the wood inletting. Pedersoli's quality control is not the best even at the prices they are asking for their stuff.
You can also check the screws on the lock but I an not one to leave screws loose - snug - yes - but not the German torque of "Gutentight" .

Most pedersoli bridal screws have no set depth stop so the usually clamp the bridal to the tumbler and sear. Dont worry if they are loose. They can not back out too far, the hit the inletting.

 

[Zonie]

Sometimes, over tightening the screws that hold the lock in the stock can cause the locks to malfunction.
It might be worthwhile to remove the locks, replace them in the stock and "lightly" tighten the lock screws to see if that fixes the problem.

 

[Lorne Johnson]

What Britsmoothy and Zonie said. The the bridle screws on the Pedersoli change the functioning of the lock depending on how tight they are. (I don't think this was engineered in, but I do think that the stock wood is supposed to keep the bridle screws from backing out to far.) This can affect a number of things such a trigger pull, and seems to be somewhat particular to any particular gun. You'll probably have to tinker with it a good bit to be really happy with the result.

 

[bbloom96]

Thanks for the information. I am not savy to the lock terms you are using. Does anyone have a labeled pedersoli lock diagram?

 

[THBailey]

http://home.insightbb.com/~bspen/percterm.html
Not Pedersoli but hope it helps.

 

[bbloom96]

http://home.insightbb.com/~bspen/percterm.html
Not Pedersoli but hope it helps.

Thanks. Very helpful info.

 

[Glenn A. Smith]

http://home.insightbb.com/~bspen/percterm.html
Not Pedersoli but hope it helps.

Thank you Thank you Thank you... I have been looking for this diagram for the last hour. Lost it from my bookmarks somehow... Now I have it to share when the topic comes up again... I am so glad the OP asked this question.

 

[Glenn A. Smith]

What Britsmoothy and Zonie said. The the bridle screws on the Pedersoli change the functioning of the lock depending on how tight they are. (I don't think this was engineered in, but I do think that the stock wood is supposed to keep the bridle screws from backing out to far.) This can affect a number of things such a trigger pull, and seems to be somewhat particular to any particular gun. You'll probably have to tinker with it a good bit to be really happy with the result.

I am working on the same issue with mine.

I just got my first Pedersoli Classic SxS 12Ga. I was out patterning it for turkey season and noticed that frequently, the lock would catch at the first safety position during firing and would not fire. Then, If I tried to reset it, the lock would not reset and the hammer would only catch at the fire position, against the cap. Anyone ever experience issues with this? I am going to disassemble the lock and trigger to clean and lubricate, but I thought I should get some recommendations first.

Brian

My Classic acts up if I get the Bridle screws not "just right" (on the Left side lock only) sometimes does not catch at full cock, sometimes will fire from half cock.. I am trying to figure out some reliable method of getting that sweet spot locked in
.

 

[Lorne Johnson]

My problems have subsided, but my next step was going to be some removable Loctite (It may be the purple) on the threads so that they wouldn't shake looser during use.

 

[Britsmoothy]

My problems have subsided, but my next step was going to be some removable Loctite (It may be the purple) on the threads so that they wouldn't shake looser during use.

Before now I have glued thin leather in the lock mortimer inletting for the bridal screws.

 

[4575wcf]

Just about every imported muzzleloader I have ever purchased has required some work right out of the factory. My Japanese Charleyville has such poorly fitted bands you could slip a finishing nail under any of them. The band springs lack enough tension to properly keep the bands locked in place. My new to me Pedersoli double 12 gauge has one lock placed too far back, and the hammer drags on the fence. First shot on doves the ramrod retaining plate at the muzzle left me for good. My Jonathan Browning mountain rifle, though Canadian made, the clean out screw in the vent seized from fouling a few shots in, I had to drill the thing out and replace it. The Oregon Coast hunts in the rain opened the barrel channel inletting up so much I had to glass bed the barrel. The wood swelled in the forend to the point where I broke a wedge lug, and that cost me a spike bull. The sear spring gave up around Hood River, and that got me an AD, and cost me a deer. Every cap and ball revolver I have ever bought from any supplier, does not have an original spring left in it. Thing is, they are good guns, every one of them, but seems you have to work on them til you get the bugs out. I think the manufacturers all skip the last hour of final fitting in an effort to ship them.

 

[Historian]

You would also be surprised or not, that many modern firearms are the same way. For me at least since I am 5' 8" my main issue is always LOP. I have had to modify every single rifle or shotgun I have ever purchased including muzzleloaders to fit my LOP. That's just life though.

 

[4575wcf]

My brother is a big fellow 6ft 2" and 200 lbs in fighting trim--haven't seen that in long while : )--He bought a Lyman Great Plains in .50 for his black powder hunts down around Craters of the Moon area. When he benched it, the sharply tapered toe area of the buttplate that Lyman uses slipped under his arm, driving the upper hook right in. I put Track of the Wolf's big kicker Hawken buttplate on the rifle which required taking a quarter inch or so length off the toe. He had the new butt plate blued to match the rest of the gun. You would be hard pressed to tell the difference if you held it up to a standard Great Plains, and he thought I did not do near enough fixing on it at first, but now he benches 100 grains with no issues. It is all in the geometry. I still have the take off butt plate somewhere. The guys that design and build these repro guns just do not shoot with them enough.

 

[SOLANCO]

My first ML rifle built by the Emigs and all I need to do is be careful not to screw it up.

I bought a well - but - gently used cap and ball revolver and have found no issues to resolve.

Between shotguns, rifles and handguns I have near thirty unmentionables. Most I bought used. The new
ones have been sweet. A S&W 629 that was a Custom Shop project. A Benelli. A Ruger 1022. If any of the used guns had had glitches, they were already resolved.

 

[SOLANCO]

My brother is a big fellow 6ft 2" and 200 lbs in fighting trim--haven't seen that in long while : )--He bought a Lyman Great Plains in .50 for his black powder hunts down around Craters of the Moon area. When he benched it, the sharply tapered toe area of the buttplate that Lyman uses slipped under his arm, driving the upper hook right in. I put Track of the Wolf's big kicker Hawken buttplate on the rifle which required taking a quarter inch or so length off the toe. He had the new butt plate blued to match the rest of the gun. You would be hard pressed to tell the difference if you held it up to a standard Great Plains, and he thought I did not do near enough fixing on it at first, but now he benches 100 grains with no issues. It is all in the geometry. I still have the take off butt plate somewhere. The guys that design and build these repro guns just do not shoot with them enough.
[/QUOTE
Seems to me the long rifles and plains rifles of the 18th and early 19th century were either custom guns or relatively crude trade items. Colt and Winchester were not yet mass producing.

 

[user 48702]

Same with me, I have or have had a good smith tune up modern handguns and long guns, better springs, honing the action, and these were all made by our best USA manufacturers. I have always appreciated the Italian made muzzleloaders and cap and ball revolvers. Some of them need a little work, but you have to look at what they cost. Most muzzle loading long guns and handguns retail at about 1/3 of their more modern USA counterparts. I competed for years in sporting clays and have always stuck with the Italian made shotguns. I have rebuilt and tuned many Uberti, Pietta, and Armie San Marcos SAA revolvers and I would run them against any comparable Colt. On the Italian market, you can buy OK, Better, or Best quality in firearms, whether they be black powder or modern. I have a Pietta manufactured Remington "Shooters" 1858 Model that in 1989 I paid $275 for, and today Dixie sells this same revolver for$1,095. It has gain twist rifling and is a tack driver at 25 yds. I had a lot of fun while on the USMC Rifle & Pistol Team at Camp Pendleton, CA. I would bring the Remington out on occasion and do just about as well with the Remington as I did with a USMC Match .45, the guys really enjoyed the smoke. It is one of the most sought after revolvers across the pond for international pistol competition. I believe the match barrel was made by Lothar-Walther with gain twist rifling and a dovetailed drift adjustable front sight. It is easily identified by it's silver trigger guard.