• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Pedersoli Pennsylvania .45

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

mbokie

40 Cal.
Joined
Jan 8, 2011
Messages
494
Reaction score
0
First experience with a flintlock was the most positive experience I've ever had with anything that can be aimed and shot.

Two shots, two bullseyes. Only at 25 yards and it was pretty cold. But it was love at first shot.

So I bought one and have not seen much about the Pennsylvania model. It's not even named in the owners manual.

I think I have everything but patches.

Would anyone know anything about it?

Thanks in advance.
 
The turkeys at Track Of The Wolf are your way forward my flintlock firearm firing friend!

Over here in Alberta traditional blackpowder geekery is not an exploited market. Nobody in my neck of the woods carries the selection and stock that they do - and I order from them all the time.

Check them out, the other fellers will be able to list other suppliers as well.
 
I have had one for 15 yrs. It is an accurate, reliable rifle, after a little lock tuning and touch hole work. Dixie Gun Works still has them in thier catolouge, They go for $920.00.I don't think they are worth that much now. I paid just over $500.00 I use a .433 ball .010 patch ,over 70 gr. 2f Goex.
 
I have a Pedersoli Pensylvania in .45 cal that I picked up in a pawn shop for $300. The former owner obviously didn't know much about keeping the powder chamber clean. Touch hole size was a little too small to get reliable ignition. Once I figured those two things out, it has been my mainstay rifle for punching paper on the range and for rendezvous shooting. The caliber is a little small for most game that I pursue with a rifle.

Pedersoli frizzens do not seem to be hardened very deeply. You may need to replace it every so often. Dixie gun works stocks lock parts. I get things like spare touch hole liners and most shooting supplies from Track of the Wolf. Be aware that you'll need to check and see if your touch hole liner has metric threads or not.

I have a copy of the appropriate Pedersoli manual in electrons that I can send by regular email if you need it. Just send me a PM with your regular email address.
 
The price on new ones seem to put them into the lower strata of custom rifles. They are nice if you can find a deal but that full price, :nono: . Used rifles or even new poorboys aren't much more than the price that was quoted and quality is better. Check some of the listings for used customs if you can't get the Pedersoli for what you are willing to pay.
 
Glenfilthie in Alberta, Greetings! I'm in Waterloo, Ontario. But I was born and raised in northern Oklahoma. Much in common with Alberta. Cowboys, oil and guns.

Track of the Wolf. check. I'll order somethings from them and see how it goes. They have a couple books I want for sure.
 
I paid $720 CAD, which is right at par with US$ at the moment.

Regular was $755 to $765.
 
I have the same rifle.

Do yourself a favor and remove the breech plug and drill out the "patent Breech" with a 5/16" drill. The little 1/4 inch patent breech will cause you much grief my freind.

I did mine on a drill press but I think you could do this with a hand drill and a vise.

You will also need to shorten up the touch hole to match the larger breech. I held the touch hole with pliers and a slowly took it down with a grinder.

I shoot 445 balls with .010 or .015 patches

Trust me on this. Patent breeches are a historically correct but not 1/4 inch. It will foul repeatedly and make your gun a difficult.
 
Do NOT remove the breech plug, The problem is the length of the touchhole liner, it sticks into the bore blocking the chamber by about 4or5 threads, It needs to be shortened, and while it is out open it up and cone the front and rear.
 
Why do you say "do NOT remove the breech plug"? Am I missing something? I removed mine no prob.

Look these guns are not rocket science. Not too many custom gun makers use the patent breech and none of them use one that is this small.

I suppose if you are really anal about loading and cleaning between shots this thing can work fine the way it is. I am not that anal. I dont clean the barrel until it gets tough to get a ball down about after several shots then it is one spit patch up and down and back to loading.

I want my gun to fire reliably and be easy to load. It does that now and it didnt before.

Could you please explain to me the benefits of the small diameter breech that I am perhaps unaware of? My ignition speed didnt change perceptably. Aside from making life difficult that is what this patent breech thing is for.
 
The breech is not the problem, I have the same gun and after modifying the touchhole, it fires every time, as fast as a caplock. No sense doing unneccesary work.
 
The original idea of the patent style breech chamber was to focus the flame and heat of the burning powder into the middle of the powder charge. In theory, this would make the powder charge burn more uniformly, and possibly faster.

It works that way with percussion ignition. It doesn't seem to work as well with flintlocks. The problem with flintlocks, is that because of the nature of the ignition system, there has to be a rather LONG flash channel from the inside of the Touch Hole, over to the back of the powder chamber, and then turn at right angles into the chamber, to ignite the powder. IF these flash channels are made Large enough, NO PROBLEMS. However, some of the makers of this style Flintlock rifle, fail to understand the need to have a flash Channel, Large enough to allow coarse Black Powder( Like 2Fg Goex) to flow down through the small( TOO SMALL) hole at the back of the powder chamber, and then over to the side of the barrel to be up next to the TH. They also don't seem to understand how easy it is for CRUD to build up in that small hole in the base of the powder chamber, and in the small flash channel, blocking any powder- even 3Fg-- from getting down into the channel and over through the channel to the TH.

Just to aggravate the situation, I have yet to find any company making these style breeches in flintlocks disclosing the DIAMETER of the powder chamber, much less the diameter of the holes in the powder chamber, or the flash channel. The Diameters seem to vary from company to company, and with the caliber sized bore of the rifle.

The problem with threading the drum into the breech plug is obvious in the pictures above: Both threaded surfaces are covered in corrosion- often as the result of Black powder residue working its ways into the threads from the powder chamber,and barrel.

At the very least, these breech plugs and drums should have their threads covered with Anti-seize compound, to help protect the metal from rust, and to insure that the threads don't gall or lock up together after some considerable use.

Anti-seize compound also seals the threads from water, as well as gases, so it prevents thread erosion, and rust from being exposed to water during the cleaning process, too. You don't ever want to see gunsmoke rising out of the back end of a breechplug, much less from around the outside of the barrel where the drum screws into the barrel! :shocked2:

Sometimes, in the foreign made guns more often than in the domestic products, you will find casting sludge, or burrs in the flash channel, that is an obstruction. You can use the next numbered sized drill bit, going through the clean- out hole in the breech of Percussion locks, or through the TH( with the liner removed) in flintlocks, to enlarge the flash channel, remove the metal obstructions, and widen the back end of that small hole in the base of the powder chamber.

Some gunsmiths remove the breechplug altogether, after removing the drum, and use an end-mill to open up the powder chamber, so that the same diameter cleaning jag that fits the rifle's bore, will also fit into the powder chamber. By driving the end mill bit deeper, the powder chamber is deepened, as well as widened, and most of the flash channel is removed. The TH liner in such flintlocks may still screw partly into the threaded portion of the breech plug, so that it "Locks" the beech plug in the barrel, but the main charge in the barrel now sets closer to the TH for sure-fire ignition and faster ignition.

Any "FIX" of these kinds of problems need to relate to the particular gun, bore diameter, compared to the barrel dimensions across the flats. As mentioned above, a .45 caliber bore in a small diameter barrel simply doesn't give you much wall thickness, into which you can thread a TH liner, or a percussion drum. What you could do to improve a .32 cal. rifle, you might not be able to do at all with a .45, or .50 cal. rifle.

A well-skilled Black Powder Gunsmith knows these things, and will make you recommendations for how to fix problems based on all his knowledge about your gun, and its limiting factors. For the home hobbyists, examining a gun in detail is the only way to begin to understand the true nature of the problems, and the limitations of the design, so that you can ask great questions here, and get very specific advice.

I would never tell anyone not to remove the breech plug of a rifle, if they have a good reason to do so. It seems to me that this is where your true EDUCATION begins, NO? :thumbsup:
 
Wow Paul, that's a detailed tutorial. Thank you most kindly.

Hopefully, I am on my journey to learn what you just said.

I have found out one thing I don't care for with my rifle: you can't take the stock off. It's pinned with tiny brads and it's not screwed on. :confused:
 
Drive those little pins out with the a small punch or a broken drill bit. I wouldnt be upset about the way its built. Those little pins are the way they built guns back in the day.
 
I just knew I was asking the right people. :hatsoff:

So simply use something of a lesser diameter or no larger than the same diameter and use care.

Do they go back easy enough or do you need to do something else?

BTW, that was quick. Thanks!
 
Just do it! The pins go back together the same way it comes apart: Easy.

Also if you havent already do yourself a favor and buy a large set of gunsmithing screwdrivers with all the different size flathead bits. Picking the correct size bit for the correct size screw will help not mangling the screws. Dont just use your crafsman screwdrivers out in the garage for this.

Are you drilling your breech?
 
Ok, the tool bit I can do. Can you recommend a brand name?

No on the drilling, I know zip. I wouldn't do anything like that until I did know what I was doing.

What do you suggest on the breech drilling?
 
Back
Top