Peep on .40 Squirrel Rifle

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md2020

36 Cal.
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Putting my TC Hawken action together with a Green Mountain IBS barrel. I got my tang drilled and tapped, mounted the peep and globe: this will be my Alabama WMA rifle. .40 and smaller for small game, and .40 and larger for large game. I wanted to be just like Idaho Ron, but instead of it being a "hot rod Hawken", it is a warm stick Hawken....

Ooopps.. My page and image storage is down at moment..
Mike
 
If/when you pull the barrel from the stock for cleaning then put it back together... does your P.O.I. change..?? Especially at longer ranges..50-75-100 yds..???
Thanks.
 
I don't know yet-- trying to go shoot today. But, the barrel is very tight in the channel-- especially at the brass nose cap. I don't expect it would change much on my 25 yard zero.. I'll advise here soon.. :hmm:
 
You should be able to do some excellent work with that sighting setup! Following along because I'm curious about the POI shift, as well.

I keep threatening to build a .40 cal because that's our cutoff here in Kentucky, too. Well, at least it's the minimum for deer. I think we can shoot small game
with a Parrott gun if we're so inclined. :rotf:
 
J. Williams said:
I keep threatening to build a .40 cal because that's our cutoff here in Kentucky, too. Well, at least it's the minimum for deer.
Check your regs, there is now no limit on caliber for muzzleloader deer. From the 2017-18 Kentucky hunting guide, legal equipment for deer;

MUZZLELOADING EQUIPMENT
Ӣ Muzzle-loading rifles or handguns
of any caliber, with flint or percussion
ignition (including in-lines),
shooting round balls, conical bullets
or saboted bullets.
Ӣ Muzzle-loading firearms equipped
with open sights or telescopic
sights (scopes).
Ӣ Muzzle-loading shotguns no larger
than 10-gauge, shooting round
balls, conical bullets or saboted
bullets.

They changed it 2-3 years ago.

Spence
 
As I tend to shoot everything right square in the head, I don't think the choice of a hot loaded-.32 cal would be considered questionable. Now if they'd only open up turkeys similarly...
 
I wish they would make rifles legal for turkey, but that's probably not in the cards. They have changed the turkey shotgun regs, though, also 2-3 years ago. Minimum legal shotgun is now .410. I was glad to hear that, I have an original smooth rifle in 28 ga. which i would dearly love to take a turkey with. No luck, so far.

car54, didn't mean to hijack your thread, I'll shut up now. :redface:

Spence
 
Spence-- any high_jacking you may do is sure to contain valuable information..
 
I bet you will loose that front aperture for hunting squirrel after a trip or two.
Any leafs are going to make finding him in the front globe sight fairly tough, would be my guess.
Great set up for targets but you will be far better off with a partridge blade up front for hunting.
Nothing better for the rear sight though than an aperture.
 
yeah loose that front sight. aside from having trouble finding your target your likely to block out something that you do not want to shoot!

I'd be leary of shooting that horizontal in the bush.
Dogs, people, ATVs, santa clause who knows what is hurtling into the line of fire. Most certainly do not decide you can swing with a target, I guess running game and squirrel hunting likely are not connected in any way but I can imagine you swinging a bit to follow a target while your peripherally blinded behind all that junk and having a tragedy. Think of how far a duck moves between when you slap the trigger and when the shot arrives (where he used to be)-- can you see that much on each side of your target? If not change the front sight.

on the plus side a simple post or blade made to use with an aperature will center in the aperature with out any effort on your part- every time and it will let more light and more scenery reach your eyeball. set it up so mr squirrel's head appears on the neck of the front post. Be a sweet meat maker.

I am a huge fan of Aperature sights- but less is often more.
 
Holy Moly.. M.D. and ddoyle; its no different than looking down a scope or red dot. All the same care is required
 
Not true at all. A scope will give definition especially with low power but a globe front does no such thing. It blocks light, a scope gathers it.
That is why on a target set up the rear aperture will have a hole assortment to adjust the light gathering so one can focus on target through the front aperture.
I use both regularly in competition and a front globe is nearly as accurate as a scope on circle paper targets but is whoa-fully inefficient on elongated targets. Here a good flat top (partridge) blade or post will give you far better definition. That is why you will find the same combination on any modern combat rifle.
 
No need to be sorry it's and opinion discussion. YOu stated yours and I stated mine!That's what this forum is for, exchanging ideas.
 
Per M.D no need for it- Cannot speak for others but I am aware that a vast majority of the time what I decide is right might not actually be the case. Questioning my judgement is a huge favor to me.

Re scopes- train yourself to shoot with both eyes open. (and for tangent mounted rifle sights and shotguns) Who in the heck convinced us to squint!
 
I don't compete and never will, but will agree with M.D. that a post front sight ("Patridge" not "Partridge") is the way to go on anything but bullseye targets and I'm not sure even then. I also think that a proper sight picture is front sight level with the top of the rear for any type of consistency. There are lines I won't cross, personally, and scoping a ML is one of those lines. Like peeps, but don't know how they would work in the field. I suppose if you could get the rear sight close to your eye, they'd work great, but agree that the globe front is a specialized tool for a specialized target course.
 
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