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Pennsylvania percussion rifle problem

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Dutch, my name is George and I just bought your system (15 minutes ago) so don't close up shop too soon. I am really looking forward to reading it.

Best of luck to you and thanks for all the help you have given to the muzzle loading community. I read pretty much everything on your site. :bow:

Peace.
 
George,
To my surprise, I was not having a heart attack last night.
.
.I spent the the rest of the night planning how I will be able to continue spreading the word, as I see it, after I have become a statistic.
Pay close attention to the section on patch selection, the "correct" method of measuring patch thickness.
You may amaze yourself.
Print out a hard copy, computers like to sneeze and blow information away.


Dutch Schoultz
 
The rapid build up of fouling indicates that your patch is too thin. In my .50 rifles, I use a .490 ball and patches that are .015 to .018 thick. I need a short starter to load at the muzzle, but they push down the barrel easily after the ball is started. I use either spit or jojoba oil as a patch lube. The 20th shot loads as easily as the second.
 
Dutch Schoultz said:
George,
To my surprise, I was not having a heart attack last night.
.
.I spent the the rest of the night planning how I will be able to continue spreading the word, as I see it, after I have become a statistic.
Pay close attention to the section on patch selection, the "correct" method of measuring patch thickness.
You may amaze yourself.
Print out a hard copy, computers like to sneeze and blow information away.


Dutch Schoultz

Yep, my computer died and took with it my copy of Dutch's Method.
 
Good point. Swiss burns cleaner than Goex, and 3Fg (with either powder) will burn faster and hotter than 2Fg, also yielding you less fouling. Generally, the subs (like Triple 7) foul less than real BP too. Since it's a cap gun you can use them. never ever in flint, unless over the top of real BP as in a duplex load.
 
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