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Percussion to flint

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jernestc

36 Cal.
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What all is involved if I were to try to convert a drop-in Green Mtn. 15/16" .54 cal. percussion barrel to flintlock?
Is it very complicated?
Does anybody know who would do something like that?
I'd appreciate your thoughts and comments.
Thanks

Mtn. Rifle
 
It depends on what kind of flintlock action you want to convert the barrel to. Sometimes the barrel has to be shortened, and re-threaded for a correct breechplug that fits YOUR lock, and action design. For instance, T/C and several European designed Flintlocks have a " patent " breech, where the TH from the pan goes through the side of the threaded portion of the breechplug into flash channel, that leads to the middle of the back of the barrel, where a powder chamber, reduced in size compared to your bore diameter, has a hole from the flash channel into the powder chamber. The powder chamber is in the breechplug itself.

Others, more traditional side lock designs, have the TH enter the barrel IN front of the breech plug's face, and directly into the barrel where the powder charge is placed. The location of the TH in the two different styles of barrels can be quite different. For which kind of breechplug and flintlock are you trying to use the replacement barrel?

I converted a Percussion rifle to Flintlock years ago. The percussion gun used an outside Drum and nipple arrangement. The only problem we had was that the original builder of the percussion gun did not marry the breech plug and barrel correctly, leaving a gap, that caused us to have to plug the hole in the barrel for the drum, and re drill and tap a new hole for the new vent and liner when we converted the gun to flintlock.

The lock maker specifically made lockplates designed to be interchanged, so that the guns could be converted, if the owner chose to do so. That is the main reason I ordered that brand of percussion lock. So, you can have other problems with any conversion that only a close inspection by a competent builder will disclose.
 
I forgot to mention that I want to do this for a TC Hawken flintlock. I'm not sure if that changes your answer at all or not.

Mtn. Rifle
 
I'd say it might change his answer but I'll let him chime in on it.

IMO, yes it makes a big difference.

If your Green Mountain barrel used a side drum that is screwed directly into the barrel ahead of the breech plug it would be a no brainer.

The Percussion breech block used on a TC or Lyman gun on the other hand would have to be filed flush with the side of the barrel.
The hole that connects the nipple to the Chambered breech would have to be sized and threaded for a vent and, just looking at my TC Hawken barrel, I don't think it would be in the correct place for a commercial locks pan to align with.

From the center of the "cleanout screw" on my barrel to the front surface of the snail measures about .150. If a 1/4-28 flintlock vent was installed there using the existing hole as a guide for the tap drill there would only be about .025 of wall between the threads and that forward surface.

My suggestion is that if you want a flintlock you should do as Roundball did and buy a flintlock barrel and lock from TC. That way you know they will line up correctly.
 
Since T/C sells a flintlock barrel and action for their guns, I agree with Jim. Buy a replacement Flintlock barrel and lock from T/C, and forget the GM barrel on this project.
 
Didn't somebody on here have problems with a vent-hole placement because they use different stocks between percussion and flint?????
 
I probably would have bought the barrel a year ago if it had been available when I called and talked to both TC and GM. I'm looking for a flint barrel in .54 and 15/16" across the flats. I haven't called either of them again so if you know that they do in fact currently offer a barrel like this I'd like to know it. I suppose I should try them again just to make double sure.
I asked my question originally because I thought maybe it would be cheaper to buy the barrel with percussion ignition and convert it to flint instead of getting somebody to 'make one up', which would essentially be a custom job.
Thanks to all for your input.

Mtn. Rifle
 
Have you talked to Tip Curtiss, or Sitting Fox about a barrel?? Sitting Fox is reportedly a factory outlet for T/C. Tip always seems to have things no one else has.
 
I was thinking of this as a possibility for a .40 13/16ths barrell that I started over 40 years ago and never could get the DGW lock to fit right. The breechplug was usual fixed type with drum and nipple placed near its forward face. I think a touchhole liner could be installed fairly easily.If so I could use the mounting lugs and inlet a new stock. Probably a small siler lock. Been looking at half stock too. Another assumption is that barrell is still usable rustwise. Do you think this is doable or should I restart from scratch? GrampaJ in NC.
 
I haven't talked to either of those. I'll have to check them out. Thanks!

Mtn. Rifle
 
Yes, its doable. There may be some problems, but nothing that you can't fix. For instance,that hole for the drum may not be located correctly for a new sidelock in either flint or percussion. Plug the hole and weld it, in place, so you can redrill and thread a new hole for your TH and liner. s long as the plug does not block the bore, you should be able to work with the existing barrel. Some of those old barrels are very good. My brother bought a Dixie Squirrel rifle in .40 cal, and used the barrel more recently to build an underhammer rifle. Shoots up a storm. :thumbsup:
 
Your encouragement is very much appreciated. Will begin planning , accumulating parts and assessing alternatives. Anticipation is the best part of a project. :hatsoff: GrampaJ in NC
 
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