Permalyn Sealant

[thecapgunkid]

I just bought a can of this stuff this weekend. It went on the rifle smoothly and dried quickly, buffing to a smooth, subtle finish.

Now then...what is it? Is it another one of these varnish type finishes or does it have a significant percentage of oil in it?

I hear so much about the Linseed/Turps combination and there are more posts about it than I have time to read, but how many of the original rifles had this varnish type finish on them?

The gun is a good trail walker or maybe a hunting gun, but I don't have an expectation of having a lot of folks ask me if it is an original.

Thanks for your replies and you can take your pick in the kindness of helping me here...

When I walk with wise men I will become wise

OR

Whatsoever you do for the least of his brothers so you do unto Him.

 

[ccmountainman]

Being as it has Polyurethane in it, which is a plastic Then NO none of the originals ever had it.
As long as we are talking originals being made before 1900 at least.
the first synthetic plastic was around 1907
and polyurethane around 1937.
True varnish has been around since the Egyptians
basically made from tree sap and a thinning agent/ drying agent. Normally an oil or fatty acid.
Remember the above is just very basic.
original varnish was all organic.

 

[LRB]

Permalyn is good stuff, and holds up very well. The sealer makes a durable finish, as should their finish, but I've never used the finish

 

[Vaino]

I agree that Permalyn Sealer is a quality product and does an excellent job of weatherproofing stocks. My first few LRs were completely finished w/ this sealer, but didn't like the somewhat shiny finish, so now apply another finish on top of the Permalyn Sealer to achieve much less shine.

Normally I'm all for being HC, anyways for LR components that one can tell the difference...but, stock finish isn't one of those components.....Fred

 

[Billnpatti]

I'm no expert on original finishes but since so many of the modern finishes have ingredients that didn't exist back in the day, they wouldn't be strictly H/C. However, they are excellent protective finishes and can be applied in such a way that they will closely mimic old original finishes.

Once you have the wood ready for a final finish. you can use your finger tips to apply and rub in small amounts at a time of the modern finishes such as Permalyn, Tru Oil, Lynspeed, etc. You apply a tiny bit to a small area and rub it in until if feels dry and then you move to a fresh area and rub in some of the finish. You keep doing this until you have rubbed in a very light coat of finish to all of the stock. You let it dry for about 24 hours and then buff it with 0000 steel wool. Keep doing this until you have anywhere from 6 to 12 coats of finish on your stock. At that time, you will need to let the finish cure for a few days and then use 0000 steel wool to buff the finish to the degree of shine or lack thereof that appeals to your eye. Apply a couple of coats of paste floor wax buffing between coats. You will then have a very nice and highly protective finish that will, depending on how much you buff back the shine, mimic an old original finish but be far better at protecting your stock than an original finish.

The big problem with using linseed oil, bees wax and turpentine mixes is how long it takes for the finish to "dry". Actually, there is little drying going on, what is really happening is polymerization of the linseed oil. Polymerization is a sloooo process and, if you choose to go that route, it will take a long time before your stock is usable.

My recommendation is to use the modern finishes and use steel wool to buff them to the finish that you desire. In essence, fake it with the modern good stuff. :thumbsup:

 

[MSW]

the short answer to your question is 'I don't know.'

having said that, I will give the stuff a double :hatsoff: :thumbsup:

I've used it as a finish for shaving brushes and it's performed very well.

one guy's advice ... free and doubtless well worth the cost!

 

[thecapgunkid]

Thanks, folks. I let a coat sink in and wiped it per the directions on the metal bottle. Then I put on a second coat, let it dry without wiping, and worked it over with that phony steel wool you get at Home Depot.

I judge light coats are the way to use this stuff. It got oily looking and is without the plastic sheen usually seen on factory rifles that are poly'd so I guess I'll let it go at that.