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Sharp Shooter

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Anyone use it for anything with muzzleloading? Patch lube, wad lube, thread lube? Would it work for any of these?
 
It's a poor lube as it holds dirt and grit.

As a patch lube it allegedly forms a tar that is hard to remove and hurts accuracy over time; but that's hearsay for me.

I use it on battery terminals to prevent corrosion and on through-hull drain plugs on small boats to keep them from seizing up. That help? :grin:
 
I have used it to wipe down the outside of my guns when in storage. I have not used it for patch lube
 
I used it as patch lube and wipe down along with several other things until I tryed Go-Jo white hand cleaner, it works best for me.
 
if you want a good patch lube use trappers mink oil or rooster all season black powder patch lube. they are both very very good and do what they say they do.
bernie :grin: [url] http://www.trackofthewolf.com...tList.aspx?catID=2&subID=196&styleID=989[/url]
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Thanks for reminding me. I'm about out of the Mink Oil Tallow, so I just ordered some more, along with more flints for my new rifle. :thumbsup:
 
windwalker_au said:
if you want a good patch lube use trappers mink oil or rooster all season black powder patch lube. they are both very very good and do what they say they do.
bernie :grin:

Do either of these lubes allow repeated loading without cleaning?
 
Sharp Shooter,

When I first got into ml shooting it was common to lube Maxi's with Vaseline. Vaseline being petroleum jelly.

The old Young Country 103 lube was repackaged Chap Stick. The base for Chap Stick being petrolatum which is another form of petroleum jelly. The original Ox-Yoke lube up until 1984-85 was repackaged Young Country 103.
 
Before switching to SPG Lube I used a 50/50 mix of Petroleum Jelly & Beeswax to lube my Minies & other conical bullets. Worked just fine, but have found SPG to be more consistent in different temperatures, but if SPG went out of business I wouldn't hesitate to go back to the old mix.
 
I like Lehigh because I can shoot a long time without cleaning. I have not tried to shoot multiple shots with Mink Oil without swabbing. I use Lehigh for the range and plinking because I do not need to swab. I use Mink Oil for hunting because it will not freeze, contaminate my charge, or dry out. It also has no smell.
 
Don't use it much for muzzleloading as it's a petrolium product, but it is an excellent base ball glove conditioner to keep the leather pliable, and it can work well as a water resistant grease for moccasins in a pinch. I find it real useful for stopping squeaks.
Ohio Rusty
 
Frank/Pa the mink oil i add lanolin greese to it keeps the fowling soft the rooster allseason i ues as is it is very good.bernie :thumbsup:
 
Leheigh is supposed to be all natural. I find it drys out fast as a patch lube. I make up moose milk and am very happy with that. Actually it seems that keeping things simple not only works but saves money. I will say that I have found Lehigh to clean extremely well. Again simple hot water (or cold) and a patch soaked with Leheigh will cause the barrel to erupt with a grey foam that loosens up bp residue leaving the bore grey and CLEAN. Follow up with another soaked patch if you like but usually don't need it . A couple of more patches and they will be white . I kind a think that this seasons the bore, but who knows? One soaked patch or two at a time, a bottle lasts forever. :)
 
SharpShooter,
Although I will try something new when
it comes along I preaty much stay with Stumpy's
Moose Snot as a lube.
snake-eyes :hmm:
 
the first ingredient in go jo is water,,,wouldnt be good for hunting,keeping it in barrel for a long time ....or do you dry patches after lubing???? :hmm: :hmm: :hmm: THANKS
 
Crisco. It's cheap, can be used to deep fry all sors of stuff, and not to bad for slicking down ones hair before going into town.
 
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