You are asking two questions, one about whether to pick open a hole in the powder charge, and the other, about what may becausing the misfire? NO?
If your pick has flat sides on it, turn the pick once its in the powder to open a space inside the back of the powder so that the flash will ignite more than one granule of powder at a time. If you don't pick such a hole, you may get the gun to fire, but ignition then begins at the vent, where the nearest granule of powder is exposed to the flame, or " flash ". You then get a slow fuse effect.
For many flintlock shooters, who have never fired a properly tuned flintlock, this IS the proper way to shoot a flintlock. They not only expect the fuse effect, but they actually look forward to it because it requires someone to be able to hold his follow through-- keep his sights on target until the gun actually fires after the required delay---- before they can be a good flintlock shooter.
Then someone comes along like me, and suggests you can get faster ignition by using coarse powder, loading it so its loose, and picking a hole in the back of the powder charge so that you ignite several granules, and get several " fuses " going all at the same time, all to speed actual ignition and burning of the powder charge. HERESY! THROW THE BUM OUT OF HERE! :youcrazy: :blah: :rotf:
But it works. :hmm:
About the misfire, without seeing exactly how you load the gun, and prime your pan, and where the vent is located in relation to the pan, and how large the vent hole is, I can only guess why you are getting misfires.
Don't cover the hole with priming powder or the prime has to then burn down to ignite the powder in the barrel. It doesn't always do it. All the heat has gone up over the top of the barrel and action, leaving the bottom, including the vent hole receiving a rush of in-coming cold air.
If the vent hole is too small, it may be difficult for the heat from the flash to reach the powder. I DO have a Vent liner in my rifle, and my fowler, for a reason. Both have significantly more reliable ignition since the vent liners were installed. The White Lightning vent liners, from Jim Chambers(
[url] www.flintlocks.com[/url]) have an oval cone on the inside of the hole, which focuses both heat and pressure back into the powder charge as gases are trying to escape out the vent.
That is the geometric genius of a parabolic curve.
No one, not even Jim Chambers, thought the shape of the cone on the inside of his liner would make that much of a difference, but it surprised him, and everyone else who has made a legitimate trial and comparison to other liners, with either no coning, or straight sided cones. There are, still, some people who will continue to argue that they find no advantage to using a vent liner with a parabolic cone on the inside of the liner, nor that moving powder closer to the exterior of the vent hole by coning at all contributes to ignition speed, but they are becoming a decided minority.
If you don't have a good set of machnist drill bits, then you may want to invest is a couple of drill bits. I first opened up a troublesome vent to 1/16". I shot the gun, and there was no doubt that ignition improved and I thought my flash in the pan problems were history. Then it happened again, and again, as I fired more, and the gun got more dirty. I consulted my favorite gunsmith, and gunmaker, who suggested I enlarge the vent again, this time using a drill size just a little larger than 1/16" I did, and there was improvment. Again, I thought I was done, but after a long shoot, it began again. This time, I stopped and cleaned the breech out thoroughly with moose juice, and then with alcohol. The patches came out clean. So I went back to shooting. About 15 shots later I had another flash in the pan. Everything was the same as the last time. I shot again, it fired. I fired again, and another flash in the pan.
I called my gunsmith and talked him through my loading procedures, and cleaning procedures, and he could not find any flaw in how I was doing things. He suggested that I open the vent to 5/64", a diameter that he had done many times on other guns to get the ignition to work properly.
So, back to the hardwared store, bought a 5/64" bit, and drilled out the vent carefully. Back to the range for more shooting.
I have not had a misfire since, no matter how long I shoot, or how dirty the barrel gets. I told my gunsmith, and he said, sometimes a 1/16" hole is enough; other times it has to go up to 5/64". He could not tell me why some guns required one size and others didn't at all. I was ready to buy a new liner, and start over again, if the 5/64" did not cure the problem.
So, work with the vent hole diameter. I know part of my problem is that the vent hole is placed so that half is above and half is below the top of the flashpan. I have to bank my powder away from the hole to get the prime to both ignite, and then burn towards the vent hole and into the barrel. On my Fowler, the hole is located above the top of the flashpan, and I can fill the pan full of powder if I desire to insure a hot enough " flash " to ignite my main charge. Ideally, you want the hole to be .030" above the top edge of the pan. If you are shooting a small caliber flint barrel, that may be difficult to achieve and still center a vent liner on just the side flat.