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texcl

50 Cal.
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I know a bunch of you have Chambers NE Fowlers kits, I'd like to see pictures to decide on what kind of wood to order. Thanks!
 
Mike, if I go with walnut or cherry what should I ask for grain wise, curly or straight grained? I'm really leaning towards the cherry stock and use little thin steel barrel wedges instead of pins. Great guns by the way!I go to your website often and use your work to judge other projects by.
 
here's one in cherry.

fowler002.jpg
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i liked working with cherry. i asked barbie for the best piece of curly cherry she had and she delivered. pics don't do it justice, it's curly like maple. keep your tools very sharp and take your time and you will be fine. go slow when drilling holes as it will burn. use plenty of beeswax on your drill bits.

heed mr. brooks advice on building and make the forestock thin to get the right profile. as well his gun building tutorial is excellent and i have consulted it many times.

cherry is also quite strong too. your 10ga will be able to push heavy loads, i use up to 2 3/8 oz of shot.
 
texcl said:
Mike, if I go with walnut or cherry what should I ask for grain wise, curly or straight grained? I'm really leaning towards the cherry stock and use little thin steel barrel wedges instead of pins. Great guns by the way!I go to your website often and use your work to judge other projects by.
Plain grain would be pretty typical. I'd stear away form the keys, you just don't see them on these guns.
 
I've been looking at losts of originals and it seems many of them have keys, it sure would be nice as far as take down. I think I'll pin it first until I get all the stock and comb details fitted to me then decide how difficult it'll be to cut slots for the keys. I wouldn't think it would be too difficult if you started out with correctly centered pins and just slowly worked your way out. But we'll see what I have to work with.
 
Here's one I did about 10 years ago for my nephew. 10ga. with maple.
ScottFowl-1.jpg


ScottFowl-2.jpg


Pin the barrel, guns in this time frame did not have keys.
 
texcl said:
I've been looking at losts of originals and it seems many of them have keys, it sure would be nice as far as take down. I think I'll pin it first until I get all the stock and comb details fitted to me then decide how difficult it'll be to cut slots for the keys. I wouldn't think it would be too difficult if you started out with correctly centered pins and just slowly worked your way out. But we'll see what I have to work with.

i understand the allure of keys, but you don't have to take the stock off the barrel. in fact on my long guns i don't take the barrel off the stock ever.
 
I don't take my pinned long guns out of the stocks either. I like the way keys look as well as the function, I thought they were fairly common, I'll keep it pinned if it is more PC, as I am going for PC. So I think I'm going for a new england fowler in cherry, I'm thinking I'm going to ask for the hardest straight grained cherry stock they can supply and go from there.
 
I volunteer out at a museum in my county in the summer. They have on display a nice Blair fowler made in England during the late 1760s early 1770s that was used to defend a local fort in 1774. The barrel is held on by keys while all other furnature is held on by pins. May have something to do with the guage of the gun. Also the stock is a deep red color, it is an import but the stock looks like walnut or cherry, cant really decide.

~p.s. they found it in a trunk that had not been opened since about the 1820's
 
odd fellow said:
I volunteer out at a museum in my county in the summer. They have on display a nice Blair fowler made in England during the late 1760s early 1770s that was used to defend a local fort in 1774. The barrel is held on by keys while all other furnature is held on by pins. May have something to do with the guage of the gun. Also the stock is a deep red color, it is an import but the stock looks like walnut or cherry, cant really decide.

~p.s. they found it in a trunk that had not been opened since about the 1820's
British fowling guns were made with keys in that period, NE fowling guns were not.
 
:bow: I hope someday I'll be able to afford a custom built fowler by Mike Brooks but I can't afford anything other than factory guns. That fowler in maple looks amazing. :thumbsup:
 
I hope one day I can talk the museum into letting me rebuild the fowler they have as a bench copy!

Luie you can afford a nice one, You stil getting the virginia kit?

From what Ive seen then is that if wedges are added the new england fowler drops the new and just becomes an english fowler.....
 

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