CaptainVane
Colt ‘51 & Remington ‘58 .36; Colt ‘48 .31
Parts - also VTI GUN PARTS. Pretty much every part of every replica.
If you have access to a drill press, clamp the trigger guard frame in the drill press vise. Put a properly-fitting screwdriver bit in the chuck, bring the quill down and align it with the screw. Then, firmly applying pressure onto the screw head, clamp the quill in place. Grasp the chuck by hand and rotate counter-clockwise. Once slightly loose, release pressure on the quill clamp and remove the screw.No dice. Spring turns, but not the screw. Trigger/Bolt Spring screw is just as tight.
Italy is part of Europe and Europe along with 99% of the rest of the world, is metric.
I just put one in the Amazon Cart right before I logged in here!@Roadkill, one of the best tools that I know of is the small impact tool that uses the 1/4" hex drive bits. This has the advantage of applying the impact vibration while making a small turn at the same time.
I have one similar to the one I have linked below. You will have to get a slotted screwdriver bit and grind the tip to properly fit the slot in the screw. This works just as @Jappo instructs in his post above. Sure, using the plastic handled screwdriver and tapping while turning will do almost the same thing. Of course, several liberal applications of the penetrating oil will help as well. Give the penetrating oil some time to work. A mix of 50% acetone and 50% Automatic Transmission Fluid is one of the best penetrating solutions I know of.
https://www.amazon.com/ARES-10025-3...6b8-982c-6c916a75431e&pd_rd_i=B09D37KHJ1&th=1
Worked like a charm on the trigger/bolt spring screw! Thanks! I am ordering an impact screwdriver to try to get the mainspring screw out. THANKS!!!!Position the blade on the screw and hit it with a hammer. Might take up to three good strikes. Don't whack away on it. But don't tap on it either. A good solid hit. I have removed many a screw and bolts that way. Works good on stubborn nipples too. The tightest screw on these revolvers is the spring screw.
I thought about that but my press does not have a vise. The smallest one is too large for my press.If you have access to a drill press, clamp the trigger guard frame in the drill press vise. Put a properly-fitting screwdriver bit in the chuck, bring the quill down and align it with the screw. Then, firmly applying pressure onto the screw head, clamp the quill in place. Grasp the chuck by hand and rotate counter-clockwise. Once slightly loose, release pressure on the quill clamp and remove the screw.
Good luck.
Glad to hear that. Best to disassemble the gun after each outing or you can pack the internals with Mobil 1 grease and disassemble once a year or longer depending on how much you shoot.I got the trigger/bolt spring screw out and found the problem. The previous owner never took it apart and there was a BUNCH of carbon and crud in there. After I cleaned the parts, the pistol operates so much smoother and I can fully tighten the trigger, bolt, and hammer screws without locking up the action. I appreciate all the advice!
Well good, glad you got em out. I thought about an impact driver but never got around to getting one. I had a Harbor Freight a long time ago. But working on antique engines took its toll on it.Worked like a charm on the trigger/bolt spring screw! Thanks! I am ordering an impact screwdriver to try to get the mainspring screw out. THANKS!!!!
Very happy to learn that you were able to remove that stubborn screw without having to resort to a torch, pyrotechnics, or worse.I got the trigger/bolt spring screw out and found the problem. The previous owner never took it apart and there was a BUNCH of carbon and crud in there. After I cleaned the parts, the pistol operates so much smoother and I can fully tighten the trigger, bolt, and hammer screws without locking up the action. I appreciate all the advice!
That's great. Same principle on nuts and bolts. Rusted frozen moving parts on antiques.Received the impact driver today. Took about 30 seconds and two good hits. I chucked the screw in my drill and dressed the head to take out the burrs. All I need to do now is cold blue the screw. Thanks, All!
As an oil field mechanic for nearly 50 years learned that applying pressure to tighten, tap screwdriver then apply pressure to loosen and tap will many times break the rust or carbon crust that has the fastener locked down. Glad you persevered.
Yep, I was an oilfield mechanic also. My mentor was about 30 years my senior. He had a saying, if I can't fix it, I'll mess it up so bad nobody fix it.As an oil field mechanic for nearly 50 years learned that applying pressure to tighten, tap screwdriver then apply pressure to loosen and tap will many times break the rust or carbon crust that has the fastener locked down. Glad you persevered.
I've done that before on stuff that didn't really matter, but never on a brass framed gun. The impact screwdriver worked like a charm, so it is going into my gunsmithing toolbox!As an oil field mechanic for nearly 50 years learned that applying pressure to tighten, tap screwdriver then apply pressure to loosen and tap will many times break the rust or carbon crust that has the fastener locked down. Glad you persevered.
The impact screwdriver I bought also has easy-out and hex head bits, so I should be ready next time for more than just guns.That's great. Same principle on nuts and bolts. Rusted frozen moving parts on antiques.
Enjoy, have fun and stay safe..
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