Pietta 1861, half cock question/problem

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Thanks for the compliment but it sounds like you just needed a gentle push in the right direction to get started. Getting a worn out revolver back in shooting condition is a great learning experience if you come across an abused one cheap. I think you will find the .451" balls too small, most bores I have checked run about .454" and I use .457" balls even when I don't have a chamber that has been reamed. I do load off the gun using a press and I recommend one.
 
hawkeye2 said:
Thanks for the compliment but it sounds like you just needed a gentle push in the right direction to get started. Getting a worn out revolver back in shooting condition is a great learning experience if you come across an abused one cheap. I think you will find the .451" balls too small, most bores I have checked run about .454" and I use .457" balls even when I don't have a chamber that has been reamed. I do load off the gun using a press and I recommend one.
I thank you guys for the push. A loading stand is on the short list. Probably make one this weekend
 
If you do make one don't bother with the added complication of making and adjustable center pin for the cylinder pin hole. They are totally unnecessary. All that is needed is a brass cupped ball seater on the end of your ram and it will find the center of the chamber mouth all by itself as you start the ball with it. The cylinder won't tip in the least if the ball press is solidly constructed square and plumb with the cylinder base.
Here is the one I cobbled together with spare steel from around the shop that works very well for all my .44s. As you can see, no center pin on the table.
 
How would I lenghten the hand? I have a problem with the cylinder not completely rotating to lock.
 
Lay the hand flat on it's side on an anvil or piece of flat steel. With a heavy punch at least the width of the hand, strike the mid section with a two pound hammer against the punch. This will extrude the length a few thousands. Start with small hits and adjust blow pressure as needed.
You may need to adjust the ratchet teeth as well if the hand binds on some and not others.
I would not recommend this though unless you have some experience.
 
Taylor & Co. has the hand you need for $5.50+shipping. I would get two, just in case....besides, they are a wear item that needs replacement if you shoot a lot...
 
Buying two is good advice. The hand springs can be prone to breaking as well. I try to keep a spare around at all times.

I work the new hand down first with a file to rough-out the shape and get it close. I do the final work to correct dimensions with increasingly fine Micromesh pads. You want to do the rough-out to the point that the hand is just a touch larger than you want it to be when finished. The final shaping and size-down is down with increasingly fine grit.

If in doubt, assemble the action and check often. A set of calipers can help get some idea as to the dimensions you want on the hand surface.

Anyone with a few basic tools and some patience can do this job, but you cannot rush it. Removing a little more material from the hand surface is much easier than trying to put material back.
 
I recommend you try the hand stretch as I outlined because it is quite easy to do and will make you a better mechanic. If done correctly it will work as good as a new one will.
 
Back
Top