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Pin size and pics

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Crow#21957

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I'm almost done with my fusil. Does the barrel pin size really mater. The recoil or kick will put the pressure on the two lock bolts and tang bolt and breech area of the stock I would think. The barrel pins just hold the forearm to th barrel if I'm thinking correct. I couldn't refuse but no finish on the stock yet but here's my fusil. Plain Jane but I like it. Oh ya someone's going to nock the curly maple but I read where there were some made with this wood original and restocked.
 

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Wow that took me awhile to get those pics correct. Does anyone else like the barrel patina? I know alot of you don't but that's ok.
 
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If any recoil gets into the pins it will break the stock. There just isn't enough wood in the stock to take any punishment. The gun would have to be built really badly for that to happen though. The tang really shouldn't be taking any punishment either, the barrel and plug should transfer all recoil to the stock. I use larger pins than most probably, not sure what's correct or not but I use 3/32 hard steel pins as the smallest I will use. I've used up to .125" pins. Easier to drill, install, and remove than smaller pins.
 
Agree with @HSmithTX and @Norman Brooks. I prefer 3/32” stock, but still use 1/16” occasionally. Sometimes I just use a finishing nail, which are usually 3/32”. And the lugs/tenons need slotting. At least a 1/16 to 3/32 each side of center.

And your rifle looks great. Like the barrel too.
 
Maple (seasonally over a 12" span) moves about 1/4" radially, and 1/8" tangentially as the wood expands and contracts while it equalizes with atmospheric humidity. The reason for slotting the pins is to allow for seasonal. wood movement across the grain, both radially and tangentially. While wood doesn't get any longer or shorter longitudinally, there is always a little angle to the grain in a stock. Just the waves of curl create a little bit of an oblique angle that makes the stock longer and shorter with the seasons. If you want to measure it, put a micrometer on your muzzle end cap and the muzzle crown during the different seasons.

Case in point;
I have a 48" barreled gun that will be .005" in September and .06"in late February (muzzle cap to barrel crown setback). When I first built the gun (finished in late summer) 5-6 months later, I couldn't get the muzzle end wedge out (in the late winter), so, I had to wait until June to get the wedge out to slot it some more. It wasn't a problem for the wedges closer to the lock, but it was for the furthest one. If I didn't slot the holes I think eventually it might have caused the stock to crack. So, the further out you go from where the barrel is really locked in there (the lock and tang bolts) the greater the cumulative wood movement. (I suspect the butt got a little longer too, but that didn't cause any fitment issues.)
 
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There should be NO pressure on the pins, or bolts in any ML gun. The breech plug recoil lug, and the rear of the barrel should absorb it if properly installed.
If that part is NOT properly inlet, pressure on the lock and tang bolts, or the barrel pins, will definitively damage the stock.
 

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