Pin size question

[Susquehannock]

I am just putting the finishing touches on my PA longrifle, but I have a slight issue that shows how much of a newb I am at this.

Way back when I drilled the holes for the tenon pins in the forestock, I used a 5/64" drill bit. Why I used this size was because it was the smallest bit I had on hand that was long enough to go the hole way through the width of the stock. I assumed I would be able to buy the same size pin stock without any trouble, and I didn't give it a second thought.

Now that I am ready to buy pinstock for the final pins I will be using, I can't find 5/64" pinstock at all. Track has 1/16" diameter pinstock and 3/32" stock. So, is it better to use the 1/16, which is 1/64" smaller than the hole I drilled, or the 3/32", which is 1/64" larger than the hole. Short of that, is there a particular size of finishing nail I could make pins from? I was using 4d nails as working pins, but they were very very tight, plus I prefer to use brass pins on the finished gun because I like the way they look.

Maybe I am make too much out of this, but I wanted to check with you guys before I did something stupid. Thanks!

 

[Old40Rod]

Music wire works... http://brodak.com/brodak-music-wire-5-64-078-diameter-36-length.html

 

[gunmaker43]

I use 5/64th pins a lot. Either music wire or save all your old bits, break off the thrd. end & use them. Brass pins are pretty but will bend someday and go there own way into the wood...Very difficult to remove. Make sure the hole in wood is tight & the lug hole reamed out so bbl. can move with heat or recoil...Tom's 2 cents

 

[alex efremenko]

a 4d finish nail works well in a 5/64" hole

 

[Rifleman1776]

I have found brazing rod to be a very useful material for a lot of projects. It is inexpensive; stiff; strong; doesn't rust and comes in a variety of sizes.

 

[mikemeteor]

Have you applied your stain/AF/oil finish yet? If not, I think you'll find that 1/16" music wire will fit those holes nicely after you apply your finish.
I size 'em so each end is a tad below grade and add a dab of beeswax in the divot. Not goin anywhere.
Almost every hardware store carries the hardened music wire.
/mike m

 

[Susquehannock]

Have you applied your stain/AF/oil finish yet? If not, I think you'll find that 1/16" music wire will fit those holes nicely after you apply your finish.
I size 'em so each end is a tad below grade and add a dab of beeswax in the divot. Not goin anywhere.
Almost every hardware store carries the hardened music wire.
/mike m

I have stained the stock and am in the process of applying linseed oil. So if I am understanding correctly, you make your pins a little less than flush to the wood, then you stick a dab of wax overtop of the pin, then smooth it out flush with the stock? What does that look like on the finished product?

 

[gsday]

Another 5/64 option is pop rivets.
Common 1/8" pop rivets have a 5/64" pin. make sure they're steel pins.
Couple bucks for a hole box of pins.

 

[galamb]

I pin most of my rifles unless a key is absolutely called for by design.

I have been using the 3/32" steel pins from Track since I started. They are hard but easy to cut to length.

Have never bent one and sell for 50 cents a piece. Ok, more expensive than other options, but buy 10 at a time and always have a few laying around.

I always pin the barrel with steel pins, everything else gets pinned with brass (3/32") - like the look of the little brass dot when filed/sanded - would use brass for the barrel pins as well if I thought it would be strong enough/not bend and make it tough to remove...

 

[necchi]

, then you stick a dab of wax overtop of the pin, then smooth it out flush with the stock? What does that look like on the finished product?

You can, but mostly it's left alone.
It looks like a little hole in the stock.

That may seem odd to those that are used too modern CF Rifles, but pin holes are part of the build with originals.
If care is taken to keep the holes symmetrical with the build (all in a line and same distance from the top rail or bottom of the forearm) they are just part of the build design.
Like this;

 

[MikeyC]

I have a .45 Flintlock Pistol Kit from Jim Chambers. He supply's 3/32" pins in his kits. I figure if it's good enough for him, good enough for me.
I am also finishing a .40 Vincent with 3/32 pins. Much better then the 1'16" the builder put in.
Just my opinion.
Mike C.

 

[rich pierce]

a 4d finish nail works well in a 5/64" hole

+1

 

[mikemeteor]

...then you stick a dab of wax overtop of the pin, then smooth it out flush with the stock? What does that look like on the finished product?

I guess it looks like you'd expect, a little hole in the wood, even with the wax.
As Necchi pointed out, leaving the pin showing is common.
Here's some waxed holes for the rear trigger guard lug(s). the wax was colored with powdered pigment on the fowler.
/mike m

 

[Vaino]

.062 dia. music wire or piano wire works well because it's semi-hard and very stiff. Why use larger dia. pins when this works so well? This music wire is used for all the pins on my MLers.

Used to use suitably colored shoe polish to "hide" the holes, but no longer do. The pins have a bevel on both ends to prevent chipping because all my MLers are sold and I don't know from which direction the pin will be removed by the owner.All the pins are 1/16" below all surfaces which makes the length non-critical.

!/16 dia.{.062} music wire is a "handy size....I order it from Ace Hardware and the 1/16" drills are a popular size and easy to get.

After finishing, all the holes are "reamed out" w/ a 1/16 dia. drill held in a pin vize.

To remove the pins, a polished down length of the 1/16 dia. music wire in a small brass bar is used as a drift.

Some use 5/64 {.078} dia music wire and a 1/16 dia drift...this works well, but the 5/64dia. drills aren't as plentiful as the 1/16 dias......Fred

 

[B.Habermehl]

I have always used music wire pins, I got my music wire from a hobby shop that does R/C model airplanes. I prefer 5/64 dia. I don't like using nails as they are all over the place in dia. Some will be loose some too tight all soft prone to preening the end over and tearing out wood. The only drawback to using music wire is you need to cut it with a dremel tool and a cut off wheel. BJH

 

[Susquehannock]

I think that looks nice. Would it create too much wiggle room if the pins are a little smaller than the holes?

 

[Susquehannock]

I'm worried about the fact that the 4d nail is a little wider than the 5/64 hole. I don't want it to be so tight, and take so much pounding from the other side to get out that it ends up damaging the wood around the holes on its way out. Is this something that can happen or am I worrying too much?

 

[Vaino]

I'm lucky in that I've got cutting pliers that cut music wire w/o damage to the cutting edges. Bought cutting snips {made in China} and the first piece of music wire left a dent in the edge. The cutting pliers are at least 50 yrs old and the cutting edges are still sharp......Fred

 

[galamb]

I'm worried about the fact that the 4d nail is a little wider than the 5/64 hole. I don't want it to be so tight, and take so much pounding from the other side to get out that it ends up damaging the wood around the holes on its way out. Is this something that can happen or am I worrying too much?

Just take a file and round over the outer edges of your "pin" and then wax the pin before driving it in.

You won't "blow out" wood if there is no sharp/flat edge to catch.

An alternative (which I have never tried myself) is to heat the pin very hot with a torch and then tap it in.

Supposedly it will (burn) the hole to the exact size and give you a tight fit (can do this with keys as well).

 

[Len Graves]

To cover the pin holes I use crayon the closest color to the wood near the hole. I feel this keeps dirt and moisture out of that area and looks more finished. Is it necessary? I don't think so its just a personal preference. To use, I warm the crayon with a candle and force as much into the hole as possible and then lightly scrape off the excess and buff. I do this after the rifle is finished completely. I find that this doesn't interfere with later removal of the pin. Just my way of doing things and not the only way.