Please school me on bullets

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Imacfrog

50 caliber
Joined
Jun 11, 2020
Messages
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Location
Maine
Looking at casting my own ammo and came across the following ad.

Lee Double Cavity Mold produces a 50 Cal. Diameter 250 grain bullet. Driving band diameters from the base of the bullet to the tip: .502, .507, .512, and .517.

So, please explain to me how a bullet with a diameter of .502 -.517 fits in a 50 caliber barrel?

Am I missing something? Round balls are .490 and with patch come up another .018. how the heck do you get one of these bullets down the barrel?

Is this one of those new math problems?
 
Explain please engrave? There
Would be lube put in the rings? It will fit in the barrel without having to possess the strength of a gorilla to seat the bullet?
 
Looking at casting my own ammo and came across the following ad.

Lee Double Cavity Mold produces a 50 Cal. Diameter 250 grain bullet. Driving band diameters from the base of the bullet to the tip: .502, .507, .512, and .517.

So, please explain to me how a bullet with a diameter of .502 -.517 fits in a 50 caliber barrel?

Am I missing something? Round balls are .490 and with patch come up another .018. how the heck do you get one of these bullets down the barrel?

Is this one of those new math problems?

The base of the cast boolit will easily start in the bore, and if pure lead is used, the boolit should swedge down into the rifling when loaded because the larger band tips are very narrow/pointed - and, yes you can lube the grooves.

.
 
Does this cause undue wear on the rifling over time compared to a round ball and patch?
 
Soft lead will conform to the bore and rifling. If it was a harder material or not pure lead you'd never get it down the bore.
 
Yes, a brush and a solvent that removes lead. A good lube on the bullet will keep leading down too.

I find a PRB easier. ;)
 
A round ball weighs approximately 177 grams is the increase in weight to 250 grams worth it when hunting deer.

(Former Archery hunting only)
 
Sol
Yes, a brush and a solvent that removes lead. A good lube on the bullet will keep leading down too.

I find a PRB easier. ;)
A solvent to remove lead? So, yet another piece of gear/cleaning equipment that is needed. LOL
 
A round ball weighs approximately 177 grams is the increase in weight to 250 grams worth it when hunting deer.

(Former Archery hunting only)


The .50 PRB is perfect for any deer. It can kill an elk too with proper shot placement. Shoot it like you're still using your bow. Double lung. No bone.
 
I shoot a recurve because of its simplicity thus I like the PRB because it does have that same simplicity. Just weighing all options!
 
So Imacfrog, have you figured out what engraving is? Engraved metal has grooves cut into it. It may be in the form of some fancy shapes and designs or it might be speaking of something as simple as the grooves that are cut when a bullet is shoved into a rifled barrel.

As for loading one of these REAL bullets, yes, you have to pound the bullet into the barrel.
Because the difference in sizes aren't large and the bullet is made from lead which is easily engraved, it doesn't take a big hammer but there is no way your going to get the bullet loaded by just pushing it into the barrel with your thumb.

A small wooden mallet or a "short starter" like you would use to start a patched ball into the bore will usually do the job if you give it a good, strong whack with your hand. REAL bullets can be difficult to load in a barrel that has been shot if the powder fouling isn't first wiped off of the bore surfaces though. That can lead to a stuck bullet somewhere about half way down to the powder charge and the need to whack your ramrod with some real stout blows to get the bullet seated.

In a badly fouled bore, a patched roundball can have similar problems, especially if the patch was lubed with some sort of grease which doesn't soften the fouling. The badly fouled bores I'm talking about are the ones that have had 3 or more shots fired thru them with real black powder without wiping the bore with a damp patch.

Speaking of wiping the bore, in my opinion, the patch should be wet but not dripping wet. Then, using a jag, push the wet patch down the bore until it stops on the breech plug. Let it sit there for at least 5 seconds and then slowly pull the jag and patch completely out of the bore.
Do not be tempted to pump the jag and patch up and down the bore. That can cause some of the powder fouling to fall down into the breech where it can do great mischief. After the now filthy damp patch is out of the bore, run one clean patch down to the breech and back out once and your ready to reload.

As I said, if you are using a lubricated/wetted patch and ball, you should be able to get at least 3 shots out of a gun that is shooting real black powder without needing to wipe the bore. If you are shooting a percussion gun with one of the synthetic black powders like Pyrodex or 777, wiping the bore is almost never needed because the fouling build up usually doesn't amount to much.
 
For heaven's sake. Using REALs is very simple. I use an olive oil soaked felt wad under the bullet and the whole thing goes down very easily. No pounding, no fuss. Keeps fouling soft shot after shot too.

wm
 
As long as you lube, you should not have a problem with lead build up. A good rap with a mallet or your hand will start it. Once started it goes down easy. The bands are tapered, .502 - .517 so the bullet starts straight. It's not as difficult as it sounds.
 
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