Plugging muzzle for browning

[Mule333]

Getting setup for applying LMF browning solution to my Rice 40. Cal barrel. Question, is a simple dowel plug at the muzzle and a toothpick at the touch hole sufficient? It seems logically simple…. Or is there another way? Thought I’d better ask than to have another “uh-oh”.

 

[Erwan]

A wooden peg forced into the mouth (must be waterproof in the scratches) and another into the touch hole, you don't need more.

 

[Dale Lilly]

I put plastic wrap around the dowel [at the muzzle] to assure solution does not enter. Cloth will not work because of osmosis. Dale

 

[Mule333]

A wooden peg forced into the mouth (must be waterproof in the scratches) and another into the touch hole, you don't need more.

Thanks, that’s what I needed to know.

 

[SDSmlf]

I was taught to coat the bore with lacquer before rust bluing or browning. Use lacquer thinner to remove lacquer coating when done.

 

[Mule333]

I put plastic wrap around the dowel [at the muzzle] to assure solution does not enter. Cloth will not work because of osmosis. Dale

Thanks. I may add some plastic to be safe.

 

[Mule333]

Also, I’m assuming that you break off the toothpick… then later after the process, just dig out or punch out the toothpick.

 

[Woody Morgan]

A cork for the bore.

wm

 

[Mule333]

A cork for the bore.

wm

Wish I had a cork… the dowel rod I had here. Just shaved the dowel rod down to size with the drill press and a file….

 

[bubba.50]

The local Ace hardware has a drawer of different size rubber plugs and corks. Lowe's also sells corks.

 

[ord sgt]

I am getting ready to brown parts also. Last time that I browned a barrel, I did a hot brown technique. That worked well. I bought some new solution and it calls for dunking in hot water. What to use for the barrel?

 

[Col. Batguano]

A wooden plug (or any natural substance) will allow the solution to creep through it, particularly if the grain direction goes north and south. Ever see a wine cork from an older bottle? The wine works its' way through the cork. If you're really worried, go get a set of those expandable rubber stoppers. Or, you can make your own with a threaded rod and a washer and nuts on each end. Rubber being a synthetic material doesn't have a grain running through it.

That's a good tip about putting a little lacquer inside the muzzle to give it a little extra protection.

Personally, I don't bother though (because I just cold brown). Just hang the barrel and wipe downwards with the solution. I want the muzzle face bright anyway, so I don't apply it there, just on the flats.

 

[Mule333]

want the muzzle face bright anyway, so I don't apply it there, just on the flats.

Wow… never thought about that. Is that the norm?

 

[Mule333]

Oh, and BTW …. I did do a search on this and didn’t find any info on using wood for a plug. Only cork.
The LMF instructions call for a wooden plug for both ends.

 

[ZUG]

There is no need to plug the bore or the touch hole when you are either browning the barrel or rust bluing it - you are wasting your time doing this. If you are getting the browning solution in the bore then you are using too much of it. As far as rust bluing the barrel it is placed in hot water after the browning solution has been applied to convert the rust oxides into the blue/black oxide color. Again no browning solution is in the bore. It would be the same as when you are cleaning your barrel with water after it has been shot.

 

[Mule333]

There is no need to plug the bore or the touch hole when you are either browning the barrel or rust bluing it - you are wasting your time doing this. If you are getting the browning solution in the bore then you are using too much of it

Yep! ….. You are exactly correct. Just got through applying my first coat and I would have to “hose it down” to get solution in the barrel.

 

[Mule333]

However, if the Brown doesn’t get dark enough. I may build a box and steam it in between coats…. I want it dark! Or rather I’m looking for contrast between the stock and barrel. I wanting the barrel to be much darker than the stock.

 

[Vaino]

I use a large wooden peg w/ a reduced end that goes into the bore....the end is wrapped w/ duct tape for better sealing. Because I install White Lightning TH liners, a tooth pick seals the TH. Also use a round aluminum fixture that attaches to the breech plug bolster..... both the peg and the aluminum fixture suspend the bbl on a wooden fixture for easy application of the browning solution which is applied very sparingly......Fred

 

[Gvilleddie]

No need for a watertight seal. I do use a dowel in the muzzle for a handle.

 

[ohio ramrod]

I use beeswax coated wooden plugs. The beeswax easily coats the wood and helps with the seal.