I am getting all my ducks in a row to build a rifle. My question is how good is the Plum browning Solution for staying on the gun. The reason I asked is I have worked with cold bluing in the past and it is rather thin and wears off pretty easy. Is the browning solutions simular? I am looking for something I don't hsve to continually repeat. Thanks.
Plum Browning Solution
- Thread starter navaho
- Start date
Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:
Guest
I've used it and it is very durable but it was hard for me get an even finish on large items like a barrel. The part must be heated evenly and within a certain temp. range. I used a propane torch for the barrel and the kitchen oven for furniture, locks and screws. If you don't card it well it will continue to rust for days after the initial application. Use some 0000steel wool and gun oil on the freshly browned items to stop the rusting. :hatsoff:
ladysmithtrading
40 Cal.
- Joined
- Sep 27, 2005
- Messages
- 485
- Reaction score
- 0
Try MSM cold brown, takes a litl time but works well!
The Plum Brown finish is very durable but as was said, it is difficult to get an even coating on large objects like barrels.
Plan on using at least 3 and more likely 4 coats to get it evened out.
The biggest problem is getting uniform heating on the large pieces. If the heat isn't high enough a coating of copper will form which has to be sanded off. If it is too hot, the solution will instantly boil leaving crusty deposits. Even after washing these off, the area will not brown to the same color as the rest of the barrel.
If someone asked me for an opinion, I would say use the Plum Brown for the lockplate and other small items and use one of the slow rusting methods for the barrel.
Oh, did I mention the fumes given off during the application of Plum Brown contains some really bad smelling stuff in it? Do it outside or in a very well ventelated room.
Plan on using at least 3 and more likely 4 coats to get it evened out.
The biggest problem is getting uniform heating on the large pieces. If the heat isn't high enough a coating of copper will form which has to be sanded off. If it is too hot, the solution will instantly boil leaving crusty deposits. Even after washing these off, the area will not brown to the same color as the rest of the barrel.
If someone asked me for an opinion, I would say use the Plum Brown for the lockplate and other small items and use one of the slow rusting methods for the barrel.
Oh, did I mention the fumes given off during the application of Plum Brown contains some really bad smelling stuff in it? Do it outside or in a very well ventelated room.
May i also add to wear eye protection.The bottle get knocked over and fell on the floor.I reached down to pick it up quick,didnt want to waste any of it and when i did a blob flew right in my eye.The pain was indescribable.I had to go to the eye docs every day the first 5 days.Took 2 weeks to get my vision back to what it was,which never has been great anyways the last couple of years.Just sum safety glasses would have prevented some unnessacry missery.Just be carefull,but as we know sh*t happens.
Laurel Mountain Forge Barrel Brown and Degreaser is one of the very best.
Wahkon Bay Tru-Brown, Davis Gun metal Brown, Homer Dangler Browning (may not be available) are a few others.
As you may have noticed, I think the Laurel Mountain is about the easiest to use.
All of these create rust. The trick is to create the right kind of rust without pitting the surface.
The process is simply to apply the solution and let it rust some. Then, using degreased steel wool rub off the loose rust and repeat the process several more times.
If you use the "Search" button and put in Laurel you will get hundreds of posts which go into the best ways to get it to work.
Wahkon Bay Tru-Brown, Davis Gun metal Brown, Homer Dangler Browning (may not be available) are a few others.
As you may have noticed, I think the Laurel Mountain is about the easiest to use.
All of these create rust. The trick is to create the right kind of rust without pitting the surface.
The process is simply to apply the solution and let it rust some. Then, using degreased steel wool rub off the loose rust and repeat the process several more times.
If you use the "Search" button and put in Laurel you will get hundreds of posts which go into the best ways to get it to work.
ladysmithtrading
40 Cal.
- Joined
- Sep 27, 2005
- Messages
- 485
- Reaction score
- 0
Ive used wahkon bay, and mountain state muzzleloading cold browns, Ive had better luck with the MSM, in response to the post bout using Plumb brown for small parts and a slow for the others beware! you may wind up with 2 diff colors and finish using 2 diff agents!
gmww
70 Cal.
- Joined
- Sep 4, 2004
- Messages
- 4,693
- Reaction score
- 4
I just finished my first Kit and used the Laurel Mountain Forge Browning solution. It is the Idiots solution because it's pretty idiot proof. No heating involved. Just follow the enclosed instructions and you'll do well. It takes about a day to do it right. After about four coats it looks wonderful. The trick it to not soak the metal parts but rather just wipe it with the solution every 3 hours.
I did not card it but rather just used a wet cloth as suggested and made one wipe every three hours. You then re-apply the solution and do it all over in three hours.
You will need humidity to get it to rust. Some do it in the bathroom. I did it in the kitchen with a kettle on low putting out a wisp of steam.
If your wondering how it looks, check my thread on the Underhammer kit.
I did not card it but rather just used a wet cloth as suggested and made one wipe every three hours. You then re-apply the solution and do it all over in three hours.
You will need humidity to get it to rust. Some do it in the bathroom. I did it in the kitchen with a kettle on low putting out a wisp of steam.
If your wondering how it looks, check my thread on the Underhammer kit.
gmww
70 Cal.
- Joined
- Sep 4, 2004
- Messages
- 4,693
- Reaction score
- 4
Similar threads
