Polishing Brass

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I grew up liking polished brass but hating to polish it simply because the shine didnt last long. I fixed this permanently by clear-coating brass things when new and thats it. I used to use Yamaha Spray Case Paint (Clear) until I couldnt find it anymore. It gave a great and tough finish. After that I experimented with some brand of spray paint like Krylon or anything of the clear variety and it worked fine. Then I expanded. Around the year, I clear-coat all kinds of things that can tarnish or rust and they stay in that new condition and dont need re-spraying. I give things about 4 light coats for build-up but the paint settles down and it doesnt look sprayed, just clean and shiny. I need a few brass powder measures right now and sure im going to spray them. I dont use Brasso or silver polish because they etch metal. I spray chrome, tools, jewelry, all kinds of things. Last thing, I did learn the hard way that the drying time of multi-coats isnt a short time as one might think, its actually about a month. I have 15-20 minutes between coats, then leave it alone for a month. Anyway, thats just me, carry on as you like.
 
Last edited:
I should add to my post that I dont prep brass before spraying. I take it from the package, handle with a paper towel and straight to work. Finger marks are very tough to get off and will become part of the metal. Also, another reason to paint before handling is that knurling is very hard or impossible to polish when patina has set in. You can use polish and a toothbrush and it will still never be like new again.
 
For those that like shiny brass, take 0000 steel wool and flitz, a few seconds of rubbing, wipe with rough cloth. I then take a jewelry cloth to clean with. Just keep jewelery cloth handy and a very little rubbing will keep brass looking good for a long time
 
I use a satin polished wheel. Plug up your screw holes with cork to avoid dishing. I work a stain finish up to 600 grit.

Then I melt Tripoli wax on to a chamise cloth and buff by hand To balance out the satin to a matte finish.

For a more bright shine you can use red rouge wax instead of Tripoli.
 
I agree with those viewpoints that the degree of polish, if any, of the brass has to be in harmony with the rest of the rifle finish....barrel, lock, etc. I don’t think my Lancaster would look right at all with polished brass and browned steel. Other then a wipe down after cleaning with an lightly oiled rag, there is no maintenance.
4F04C1C6-2589-48C4-93C6-0994DDD64DF6.jpeg
 
I agree with those viewpoints that the degree of polish, if any, of the brass has to be in harmony with the rest of the rifle finish....barrel, lock, etc. I don’t think my Lancaster would look right at all with polished brass and browned steel. Other then a wipe down after cleaning with an lightly oiled rag, there is no maintenance.
View attachment 61527

Beautiful.
 
I bring the brass on the rifle I build to a mirror finish one time as I finish the build and never touch it again, I like the built up patina they acquire over time.

I smelled enough Brasso back in the day.
 
I sand my brass with 400 grit paper then polish with green Scotchbrite for a nice satin finish.
 
I like the look of brass with natural patina on my guns, never polish them bright, never have. It's just a personal preference, I don't believe letting brass go unpolished damages it in any way. I've owned this rifle for 44 years and bought it second-hand. It has been very well cared for but never 'polished' even once. Good as new.

turkey10-14F.JPG

Spence
 
Back
Top