Polishing the flash pan...

[Blackpowdersmoke]

Hello fellas,

It's been awhile since I've been back on here and I need a little help. I remember reading some time ago a thread or threads concerning polishing the flash pan on a flint lock. I tried searching the topic but I either didn't use the correct nomenclature or just flat out missed it but if someone can direct me to that discussion, I would appreciate it. I seem to remember someone using a dremel tool for the task and seeing as how the Mrs. has blessed me with one for my B-day, I thought that might be a fitting way to break it in. I have a T/C flinter I bought used a few years back and the pan has some pitting so I like to polish it out.

Thanks in advance,

BPS

 

[Stumpkiller]

If you decide to polish use rouge and a felt/fiber wheel. DO NOT GRIND the pan with abrasive heads. The little wire brushes Dremel sells also polish steel if you use a light touch.

A gunsmith aquaintance of mine called Dremels "The Quicker Screwer Upper" and says they bring him lots of business replacing destroyed gun parts. Go slow and try not to remove metal - just polish it.

 

[M. De Land]

Yup, this gun has "Dremel Rash" or this gun as been "Dremelized" or they'res not a lousy job out there that cannot be made worse with a Dremel tool! :rotf:
That being said , I use one a lot for all kinds of work that would be all but impossible without them, like safety work on cocking pieces.

 

[Blackpowdersmoke]

If you decide to polish use rouge and a felt/fiber wheel. DO NOT GRIND the pan with abrasive heads. The little wire brushes Dremel sells also polish steel if you use a light touch.

A gunsmith aquaintance of mine called Dremels "The Quicker Screwer Upper" and says they bring him lots of business replacing destroyed gun parts. Go slow and try not to remove metal - just polish it.

Oh yea...

Thanks Stumpkiller, I'm sure that's pretty sound advice for a newbie, but having been a machinist all my (adult) life... I learned a long time ago there's a fine line with abrasives! Kinda why I wanted to find that thread again and see what those fellas who posted recommended. I seem to remember something about some rubber discs that had abrasive qualities to them but wouldn't remove metal other than surface scale, etc. kinda like a glorified eraser.

Do you think JB bore paste and a felt wheel (head) would do as well as rouge or the like?

BPS

 

[Vaino]

Once in awhile the pan is slightly off center w/ the TH....I use a grinding wheel in the Dremel to correct this. The grinding wheel matches the radius of the pan. When using a Dremel or hand grinder, being aware of the spindle rotation and going in the right direction so the grinding wheel doesn't "climb" and ruin the workpiece prevents damage.

I polish the pan on all my builds.

I use my Dremel quite a bit....especially when inletting the "guts" of the flintlock....Fred

 

[Blackpowdersmoke]

Fred,

Thanks for your advice but I'm not looking to modify the pan in any way, just polish it smooth. I have seen some pans on some of the cheaper (euro-made) guns that would benefit from re-shaping them a bit, but seeing as how I don't own any that's not my intention.

BPS

 

[Stumpkiller]

J-B Paste is milder than (jeweler's) rouge. I like a product called "Flitz" for polishing by hand but I think a Dremel would throw it everywhere.

Toothpaste makes a fair metal polish.

I've seen the "eraser" type abrasive rods chucked in a drill-press to jewel bolts and ejection ports on centerfires. Haven't tried the Dremel variety.

I tried a search and came up with . . .
http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/...85082/post/1346079/hl/Polishing/fromsearch/1/ http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/...st/1343641/hl/Polishing/fromsearch/1/#1343641
http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/...280567/post/1287049/hl/Polishing/fromsearch/1/

 

[Artificer]

I have found Cratex (Rubber Abrasive) Polishing Points, used in a Dremel type tool, to be immensely helpful to smooth rough pans and polish ones that only needed that.

Cratex Points come in these colour codes:
Available in four standard grit textures:

Coarse...... Green
Medium...... Dark Brown
Fine...... Reddish Brown
Extra ”“Fine...... Grey Green

The last two are best for just polishing.

Probably the best shape of the points to use for polishing priming pans are:

Number 11 Bullet Point for civilian lock pans

Number 15 Bullet Point for Larger Locks and Musket Lock pans

This link shows what I am referring to, but most folks don't want or need the quantities listed. One can either buy a kit or look for single ones or smaller quantities. http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...ints/replacement-bullet-points-prod41792.aspx

However, I have often found tool/accessory dealers at Gun Shows have these and other Dremel accessories for sale, including the mandrels needed for the Cratex Polishing Points. Now, the colour code above may not apply for imported polishing points, so it is best to ask what colours mean what grits when you purchase them at a gun show or other place.

Gus

 

[Don Steele]

Thank you for the information on Cratex Gus. That's really helpful information.
For polishing the pans of my flintlocks, I've been doing it totally manually, using a small piece of emery cloth wrapped around a #2 pencil and patience.
Count me as another one who had to learn the hard way :shocked2: just how FAST things can go bad with the careless application of a Dremel. :redface:
Fortunately...that was when I was in my 20's..I've calmed down a lot since then. :thumbsup:

 

[Critter Getter]

Being somewhat new to flintlocks with only a year and a half experience with them, can you explain to me the advantage to polishing the pan? I assume a quicker ignition. Can a person notice that difference on a quality Chambers lock when polished? Greg.

 

[BrownBear]

...can you explain to me the advantage to polishing the pan?

In my wet part of the world, and unpolished pan leaves little crevices for powder fouling to get into. Can't get it all out, and wet fouling is the surest prescription for wetting and fouling prime charges on subsequent shots. Maybe not an issue for a once a year deer shooter, but if you're after small game in particular with multiple shots per day, you'll join the ranks talking about temperamental flinter ignition. With a well-polished pan, a single swipe cleans it completely and you bypass the whole scenario.

 

[Critter Getter]

Thanks Brown Bear. That makes sense. I always wipe the pan and frizzen between shots and have never experienced that problem. Greg.

 

[garra]

Cratex is a good product, but it is difficult to find in small quantities. Usually you have to buy more than you need of one size, fairly expensive. I did some searching on e-bay thinking I could find offerings there, boy was I mistaken. Did find an offering in jewelry supplies that was good, item 400630247811, not cratex, but 18 assorted for $8.69 with free shipping.

 

[Artificer]

A little more on the cratex rubberized polishing points or others like them.

One needs to use a sort of light touch as you begin to use them with a Dremel Tool (using both hands on the tool) and then press a bit harder as you learn to use them more. You can reshape them by using a worn out fine file, also.

Oh, besides finding smaller quantities at gun shows or ebay, Dremel sells some of them and some mandrels in the little blister packs at some Home Depot or other Big Box Hardware stores.

Gus

 

[Rifleman1776]

Cratex is a good product, but it is difficult to find in small quantities. Usually you have to buy more than you need of one size, fairly expensive. I did some searching on e-bay thinking I could find offerings there, boy was I mistaken. Did find an offering in jewelry supplies that was good, item 400630247811, not cratex, but 18 assorted for $8.69 with free shipping.

Brownell's used to sell a similar product in individual quantities. It may have been Cratex. Check their online catalog or call.

 

[Stumpkiller]

Being somewhat new to flintlocks with only a year and a half experience with them, can you explain to me the advantage to polishing the pan? I assume a quicker ignition. Can a person notice that difference on a quality Chambers lock when polished? Greg.

BrownBear got it - at least as far as I would believe. It doesn't really add to much, if anything, for ignition. But it does make cleaning easier and eliminates spots for corrosion or crud to get hold. And also allows a wipe with a cloth patch to clear any moisture drawing fouling.

I keep mine smooth without really being polished - unlike the feed ramp of a .45 ACP that I keep mirror bright for a WHOLE different reason. For that I use the jewelers rouge.

 

[Blackpowdersmoke]

Thanks to all for your prompt replies. I will look into the cratex style polishing heads and possibly some "flitz" before I do anything with the lock.

I seem to remember that somewhere in my vast array of cleaning, loading, shooting supplies. I have a small container of carborundum polishing compound that I got at work many years ago. It's like a 600 grit dust suspended in a very heavy oil. Maybe that would work if it's not too messy to use with a dremel.

BPS

 

[FPDoc]

Last pan that I polished, I used little pieces of 600 grit wet-or-dry silicon carbide abrasive paper and a pencil with rounded eraser chucked in a variable speed DeWalt drill. I think I did use a Dremel with a soft felt tip and rouge for final polish. Polished it to make it easier to clean but it looks nice as well.

 

[richdeerht]

When I did mine, I started with emery on a round rod, then finished with the Dremel with a craytex wheel.