Possibles Bag

[wvamountaineer51]

I am making a possibles bag. What sewing stitch is best, what needle, and should I double or single loop the sinew, that is use a single thread or double thread sinew.

 

[Loyalist Dave]

What's the material? What will you carry? (Heavy stuff may need reenforcement and a wider strap) Is this a rifle bag or fowler bag that you want to carry a few extra items within, or is this a small pack that you will carry shooting stuff within?

LD

 

[Artificer]

First, if you are new to sewing leather, I can not possibly more highly recommend you get the book in the following link. I wish it was available when I started sewing shooting pouches and other items in 1972. I purchased my copy shortly after it became available in I think 1978 and I STILL refer back to it from time to time.
http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/product/the-art-of-hand-sewing-leather-book-61944-00.aspx

Now, what is the time period of the pouch you are interested in and what location did it come from? This has everything to do with how many stitches per inch of the sewing and whether to use linen thread, real sinew or leather lacing was appropriate and how it was sewn.

I gave up on "articial sinew" a couple decades ago as it can tear through the leather in some stress points because it is made of nylon and it is not historically correct. Personally, I have used period correct waxed linen thread from that time onward. I use two needles with what some describe as the double sewing or double loop hand sewing mentioned in the book above.

Gus

 

[necchi]

It's easier for folks to help with just a little more info.
Loyalist asks valid questions.
Cloth/Canvas or Leather?
If leather, Veg tan or Oil tan?
If your using Artificial sinew, the only I've seen is sold as "Large" or "Small" the large has 5 strands, the small has 3 strands

 

[Artificer]

Oh, for FWIW, I strongly recommend you do not by or use a stitching awl as shown in the following link: http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/product/sewing-awl-kit-1216-00.aspx

Like many of us, I bought one of these when I first started doing leather work. The thread is often too large for many projects, unless you get smaller thread in separate spools. Most importantly though, the single loop stitch is not a very good/strong way to sew leather.

Back in the 70's when most Law Enforcement Officers were still wearing leather gun belts, I re-sewed a LOT of them that had been machine stitched with the single loop sewing style. Once that kind of stitch gets worn/broken, it will often unravel a good ways down the leather. With hand stitching and two threads, many of the loops can be broken and the stitching will still hold together. After I re-sewed the leather gun belts with waxed linen thread and two needles, they stayed sewed for many years.

Gus

 

I am making a possibles bag.

A popular question around here seems to be, is this a Shooting Bag or is it for your other gear (Possibles)? :grin:

 

[wvamountaineer51]

Sorry gentlemen, my bust on not enough info on the possibles bag.

!. I will be using a deer hide. Hide feels brain tanned but am not sure.
2. It will be a hunter's bag. I will be carrying a tin of caps, patches, small tube of lube, small bag of 20 .50 cal balls. Scraper, cleaning jag, bullet puller, rag puller, measure. Powder horn and knife worn separate. I have a small amount of artificial sinew and more on order. Shouldn't have much stress on the stitched area. I thought about using what I called a French Stitch, not sure what it is called today.

 

Sorry gentlemen, my bust on not enough info on the possibles bag.

!. I will be using a deer hide. Hide feels brain tanned but am not sure.
2. It will be a hunter's bag. I will be carrying a tin of caps, patches, small tube of lube, small bag of 20 .50 cal balls. Scraper, cleaning jag, bullet puller, rag puller, measure. Powder horn and knife worn separate. I have a small amount of artificial sinew and more on order. Shouldn't have much stress on the stitched area. I thought about using what I called a French Stitch, not sure what it is called today.

Okay, it's a shooting bag, not "possibles". That helps. :thumbsup:

Brain-tanned may be a little light (too soft and flexible) for a shooting bag. Not saying it won't work, but the contents of a shooting bag can get heavy.

 

[necchi]

Use a two needle saddle stich,,inside,, as in sew it together inside out then fold/turn it back so the outside is outside. https://www.google.com/search?q=sa...addle stitch leather&revid=390571594&imgdii=_

 

[BrownBear]

I've tried lots of different sewing methods on leather, and the two-needle or saddle-stitch method is strongest and turns out the best looking results. Only reason I'll use any other is when trying to recreate a look.

For my money, buying this book will be the best $20 you can ever spend for your leatherworking projects. Great for bags, but for so much more, too.

 

[Loyalist Dave]

Yep they nailed it... saddle stitch and the right book. Can't go wrong. I've had success with elk, moose, and deerhide using artificial sinew. You could use waxed, natural fiber thread too.

That tool that Artificer shows is also a good way to stab the crap out of your opposite hand when trying to do something in heavy cowhide. :shocked2: BUT... it is a good tool for emergency resewing a seam in cowhide where the stitching has rotted or broken. Emergency ... not if you have the time to do it right.

LD

 

[crockett]

WVA- so it is a soft leather. You could use one long piece folded into thirds. Start at one end and fold that over to the midpoint and then sew the sides together to form the pocket. The remaining third becomes the flap and the flap is long enough to cover the bag. A big flap like that is heavy enough to stay in place- you probably don't need a button but I always add a button just to be sure nothing falls out of the bag.
Instead of the long piece you could have two pieces. A front panel and a back panel which is longer- the excess length then becoming the flap. If you make a two piece bag you can add cut fringe along the bottom seam. Maybe 1/8" wide cuts. I use heavy shears. Fringe maybe 4" long. Thin fringe is hard to cut but looks best. If you are having trouble put clear tape over the leather, draw a straight line on the tape, and cut that- the problem with tape is taking it off afterwards. Some folks also twist the thin fringe strands after they are cut.
The bottom corners of the bag can be slightly rounded, you can even do this with a single piece bag- just round the bottom after folding over the front panel area.
The strap can be of heavier leather or you can back soft leather. Blanketing was used to back thin leather and sometimes the blanketing was scalloped, the points sticking out wider than the leather section of the strap. Buckles are common today but not so common on original bags. You can also double over upholstery webbing and use that for a strap.
The straps get sewn on back and at a slight angle so the bag hangs nicely.
Linen thread is PC is easy to use. Instead of the fake sinew think about the real stuff (Crazy Crow-$7) I think the real stuff is easier to use. Take a section and wet all but one end. The dry end remains stiff and is the "Needle". Use an awl to make the hole. If you make all the holes at the same time- in soft leather- stick small brads in the holes. In other words, with the brad method you "nail" the sides and then remove one brad and before the hole closes up and disappears you stick the dry end of the sinew (Or needle with linen thread) into said hole, then pull out the next brad and repeat.
Linen thread can be done in a straight line- shoestring fashion- a needle on each end and the middle of the thread in the first hole. This creates a solid thread line on both sides. Original bags often had a narrow rawhide thong- running stitch. On sinew, I would use a wrap stitch- around the edge- like kids do with summer camp projects. When you get towards the end of the sinew lay the last inch along side the edge and cover and secure it with wraps from the next section of sinew- the sewing goes pretty fast.
Today's bags are often sewn "inside out" with the edge inside when done. This billows out the bag and creates more room. If the stitching is on the outside it might be more pc but the bag wants to stay flat and shut. Some folks make the front panel slightly smaller which is sort of like the toe/vamp on a moccasin. Side gussets might be pc but if they were they were not as common as just a flat type bag.
Soft bags...I like them. The powder horn sort of snuggles against them rather than flopping around and banging on hard leather.
Historically I think a lot of the soft bags were probably native made and acquired by trade.

 

[LaBonte]

Here's a basic tutorial I wrote on how to hand-stitch leather using the saddle/harness stitch
How-to Hand Stitch - Saddle stiitch

 

[Artificer]

wvamountaineer51,

Pay VERY special attention to what LaBonte above wrote and ANYTHING he writes about leather working. Chuck has forgotten more about leather working than most of us will ever know. Chuck is a very rare person who knows so much and so freely and generously passes on knowledge.

Chuck, I keep you in my prayers. Hope the therapy is going well.

Gus