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Powder bridging

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you are swabbing after each shot you will need to run 1 or more dry patches down before loading again.

One can never convince the anti-swabbers, but my technique involves only one patch when swabbing between shots. I dampen with spit, put down bore, draw out, reverse patch and do it again. I never get the slop or wet gunk build up we read about here. Of course, I have only done this procedure a few million times, it could still happen. :wink:
 
Walks- if I understand correctly, you are saying that when you pour the charge down the bore it does not go into the patent breech area but piles up -one grain upon the other and there is a dead air space below the clogged up powder?
That really seems unusual. You said you are swabbing between shots. Is the residue in the bore getting pushed into the flash hole area so that when you pour the powder down the bore there is trapped air? After swabbing, run a prick through the flash hole and then pour the charge- just to see what happens. Try pouring a charge without swabbing the bore- see what happens.
Old timers often used wadding over the powder and below a PRB. I've wondered about that- did the wadding cushion the PRB or was the purpose for the wadding to push the bore residue down on the powder charge to make seating the PRB easier?
 
Tight breech hole on a Traditions Shenandoah was the pits.
Then the breech was improved with a greater inside diameter at the same time as having a rebore done.
Now it's just peachy.
 
Walks with fire said:
I have been shooting my new Lyman Deerstalker .54 flinter over the last few weeks and it shoots pretty well and with the exception of one very annoying characteristic I like it. The annoying feature is powder bridging across the top of the recessed chamber for the patent breech. No amount of bumping the stock or bouncing the buttstock will get the powder down into that recess. I have resorted to using the ramrod to tamp the powder down into the chamber but what a pain in the neck.

I assume this is after the first shot.
If so the problem is flakes of FOULING falling into and plugging the powder chamber/vent. My Nock Breech rifle will do this if I use low quality powder. Swiss powder should cure it.

Dan
 
Maybe it's just me but the other issue is the swabbing between shots. The bore has fouling along its entire length. If you don't swab and just pour down a new charge, the powder bypasses the fouling that is in the bore and gets to the bottom. If you swab, you end up pushing all the fouling down the bore and it can plug up the flash hole. On a percussion- snapping a cap can blow out any fouling but on a flint- it seems to me you would have to prick the flash hole to make sure the path is open, or so it would seem.
 
I had the bridging problem on two patent breech guns. In both cases the powder was not filling up the chamber. When I stuck a pick in the hole after running the ball home there was little or no resistance from the powder. I always smack the breech area after pouring the powder but it didn't help. My Pedersoli Mortimer needed an enlarged chamber and a rather expensive custom full stock Hawken finally got a new breech. Both guns are for hunting. I don't clean between shots because I wouldn't be able to do that if a follow up shot was necessary in the field.

Duane
 
Personally if I had a gun that was doing that I would pull the breech plug to see what is really going on and hog out the chamber entrance with a Dremel tool or drill bit. It could just be a rough or ledged opening and needs a bit of clean up and chamfering.
I too don't care for reduce diameter powder chambers.
I also think swabbing is not a good practice with patten breeching and flint ignition. MD
 
Let me say "thanks" to all. I always thought a patent breech was a great thing even though none of my rifles have such. Are there any advantages to it and why was it used? Thanks.
 
You are mostly going to get "opinions" on that question.

On a flintlock I personally don't see an advantage, but still use them because I will not build a rifle without a patent breech (just because I sleep better at night doing it that way).

On a percussion rifle I (personally) consider them necessary for safety.

And when I say patent breech that doesn't necessarily mean a "hooked" breech which often gets lumped in with patent. I build most of my caplocks with either a solid patent snail (aka a Hawken squirrel breech) or if I want drum/nipple I use a Peter Allen solid patent breech (aka Ohio patent) - that way I'm not drilling a hole through a very thin barrel wall which I'm "praying" will continue to support a drum throughout it's service life.

On a flint they were originally developed to improve ignition (or maybe ignition speed). I don't notice much of a difference either way but still routinely use a hooked Hawken Flint patent breech (either rifle or pistol model) and adapt the tang as necessary for the rifle style (would use a solid breech there as well if commercially available - not fussy on hooked breeches unless they were appropriate on a particular rifle - ie. Hawken).

Additionally, I always increase the chamber size, normally to the next caliber below bore size (so enlarge the chamber on a 50 cal to almost .45 - always less than bore size) and chamfer the the front of the chamber close to bore size. Then polish the face, chamber and flash channel (if one is there).

Never have bridging problem and my rifle rarely ever fail to go "boom" when you pull the trigger..
 
crockett said:
Maybe it's just me but the other issue is the swabbing between shots. The bore has fouling along its entire length. If you don't swab and just pour down a new charge, the powder bypasses the fouling that is in the bore and gets to the bottom. If you swab, you end up pushing all the fouling down the bore and it can plug up the flash hole. On a percussion- snapping a cap can blow out any fouling but on a flint- it seems to me you would have to prick the flash hole to make sure the path is open, or so it would seem.

Use a heavily damp not a dripping wet patch on a fairly loose jag. The jag and patch will push past most of the fouling then pull it out when the patch bunches on the jag as its pulled out. This may require a larger patch than a tight jag will.
But this will work. Wiping with a too wet patch causes a lot of problems. Also plain water works fine for BP fouling no need to all sorts of soaps and witch doctor additives like peroxide and who knows what else.
A patch that will just squeeze out some water down and up, turn it to the clean side and do the same again. I use COTTON FLANNEL soft stuff. Many of the hard finish cloth modern patches do not work well with BP. Then a dry patch the same way, up and down once on each side and it should be ready to load again. If not then the powder is producing too much fouling for some reason.
I wipe between shots with my 50 cal match rifle and never have a problem shooting 110 gr of FFF Swiss.
I use one of the repro US issue worms that Track of the Wolf sells in my 50.

Dan
 
This summer, I obtained a large quantity of 1fg Goex very cheaply.
On a whim, I used it in my Lyman 50 cal flinter.
It worked quite well and did not have any more fouling than what I would expect with 2fg.
What I did was to swab with a spit patch after I put in the powder. Ignition was good, better than I hoped for. Accuracy was also good.
My 58 loved it.
 
Duane said:
I had the bridging problem on two patent breech guns. In both cases the powder was not filling up the chamber. When I stuck a pick in the hole after running the ball home there was little or no resistance from the powder. I always smack the breech area after pouring the powder but it didn't help. My Pedersoli Mortimer needed an enlarged chamber and a rather expensive custom full stock Hawken finally got a new breech. Both guns are for hunting. I don't clean between shots because I wouldn't be able to do that if a follow up shot was necessary in the field.

Duane


Many of the parts on factory mades leave a lot to be desired. They likely left the powder cavity as cast and perhaps too small or ?
Many of the parts sold by suppliers are just kits and need rework to be as good as they should be. But a many do not understand this.
I have used a TOW Flint breech on a pistol years ago an can't recall if I modified it of not. I never gave any problems for the several years I used it. And I hunted with it. But what the CURRENT production is like I could not say.

I have a shop made Nock breech in my 16 bore and it has a vent between the antechamber and the barrel that is about .190" IIRC.
P1010923.jpg
it works flawlessly. With good powder, wiped or not. My "service load" for this rifle is 140 gr of FF Swiss. It and the standing breech have been case hardened in colors.
P1010950_2.jpg

Its also a recessed breech type (Manton's patent from about 1810).

I have a Swivel Breech rifle with patent breeches in the barrels. These have a 3/8" powder chambers cut with a ball end mill so they are cupped at the breech end. It works well with FF or FFF and I have killed a couple of deer with it and missed at least one Antelope.
IMGP1079.jpg


P1010898_2.jpg


These have given good service in hunting and shooting with and without hunting. But there are no sharp edges and they are somewhat polished in the interiors.
A friend has a percussion rifle I built that I was SURE would work in any circumstance, but when wiped it needed to have a cap popped to make it shoot reliably. So?
I need to debreech this and look at it. But the breech is case hardened now so it will require carbide to reshape the interior if it needs it and if the current owner wants it done.
So, flint patent breeches DO work if done PROPERLY. But the Nock is sensitive to powder quality and powder that produces large flakes of fouling WILL clog it in 2-3 shots and cause it to fail to fill the anti-chamber and then flash in the pan.
But it will not do this with a powder like Swiss.
This is the Nock breech as drawn in George's "English Guns and Rifles"

FlintBreeches001-1.jpg

This was the original and actually only "patent" breech or so some English shooters on another site have said.

I never use a touch hole pick as such and don't carry one in my pouch. If the vent and the rifle is properly done its very seldom needed, if so I use something in the field whittled stick or a dry grass stem.

People also like to shoot cheap powder. The original Nock (patented in 1782 or 89) does not like powder that fouls excessively. The chambered breech plug, which was much like the swivel breech breeches but drawn in Geroge's book with a smaller passage probably did not either.

Dan
 
It seems to me that one would need a scraper that matched the contour of the cavity in the patent breech.
 
I use a bore brush that's the size of the chamber.

If I build a 50 cal I open the chamber size to just a touch under 45 cal (so 45 cal brush etc).

Most off the shelf patent breeches have a chamber size of somewhere between .30 and .40". If you don't want/or cant pull your breech to check (the information may be available from the mfg or builder) simply trying a couple different brass brushes (at a couple bucks a piece) should let you know what will "fit".
 
crockett said:
It seems to me that one would need a scraper that matched the contour of the cavity in the patent breech.

Blackpowder fouling is water soluble. I have never used a fouling scraper in my life and have been shooting MLs since about 1966.
Simply wrap a patch on a bore brush to wipe the chamber.
Plug the vent, I use a round tooth pick and pour in some water slosh, dump, wipe with wet patch, pour in some more and repeat. Then wipe dry and oil.
I do this with ANY fixed breech ML. Percussions put a piece of rubber in the nipple and press the hammer on it for a plug.

Dan
 
Dan- I've always been wary of putting a bore brush down a muzzle loader (can't pull it out) is yours undersized?
Thanks for all the information.
 
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