Powder contamination test

[jtmattison]

I conducted a powder contamination test. My goal was to see how much powder would become contaminated by lube from a lubed felt wad and lubed PRB while seated in the bore for a period of time.

My test consisted of a 90 grain weighed charge of Goex 2f, homemade lubed felt wad, and homemade lubed ticking patched RB, all seated in a speed loader tube. This is the best way I could duplicate a loaded barrel while still being able to carefully remove the load. The big difference in the speed loader tube and a barrel is obviously the rifling but I figure a tight fitting load would fit the rifling grooves anyway so using a smooth tube should give the same basic results.

I let the first tube sit for about 4 1/2 hours. When I poured the powder out I tapped the side of the tube to release powder stuck to the wad. Still, 1.6 grains of powder remained on the wad.
I then took the wad outside and lit the powder on it with a long BBQ lighter. The powder took a little effort to light. All but about 4-5 granules of the powder burned off. The remaining granules looked completely unhurt.

I loaded another tube and I will let it sit for 24 hours and I will report the results if they are significant.

I will also test this from an accuracy standpoint. I will load 3-5 tubes and let them sit for 12-24 hours before going to the range. I will fire a group of freshly loaded shots and then a group with the ones that sat in contact with the lubed wad/patch.

HD

 

[Rikeman]

Sounds like a great test! Looking forward to the results. :thumbsup:

 

[ldykeman]

I will be very interested in reading the results. The potential for powder contamination is what made me start using an unlubed felt wad between the powder and PRB. MANY years ago, in the Hodgdon Muzzleloader handbook, I read an article by Layne Simpson, who recommended using a wadded up piece of Saran Wrap to isolate the powder from the projectile. I did like the concept but balked at putting a wad of plastic in my bore. I have used homemade unlubed felt wads since.
Larry

 

[MSW]

Larry, I agree with you. I just don't see the logic in putting a light layer of melted plastic in the bore of a muzzleloader (or any other rifle, for that matter). The unlubed felt sounds like a better (and more practical) solution.

Just one guy's opinion.

 

[bart_anastasi]

I have done the same kind of test but mostly by accident.

Loaded up some 3 prb and 3 Maxi;s in some 54 cal tc speed loaders.

Left them in my shooting box for around 8 months or more.

Fished them out start of the hunting season and they shot just fine. I had just for the heck of it put a thin single piece of paper tissue between the load and the ball.

I had also wrapped some scotch tape around the top of the loader to keep it shut when in the pocket.

I did dab some fresh lube on the bottom of the prb patch since it looked kind of dry .

 

[50cal.cliff]

Sounds like your results are about what I supected. The lube on the patch has only minimal results! If it did when you load the rifle in the morning, by late afternoon and that big buck steps out you wouldn't be able to bust his butt!
:grin:

 

[BrownBear]

For comparison's sake, what kind of lube are you using?

I've been kinda worrying about it with one of the lubes I've been experimenting with. It's pretty oily stuff, getting all over everything when I fill a loading block, then again when I seat patched balls in the bore. So far I've reserved it for range fire where charges are shot shortly after loading, rather than sitting all day on a hunt.

 

[Napper]

I have just started to use boer buttons but I have shot loads that have been in a speed loader for two years without any problems but that was with conical with bore butter on them. Tom

 

[brubincam]

---saran wrap used to be wax paper---I'm sure that is what he used--- :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

 

[jtmattison]

For comparison's sake, what kind of lube are you using?

I'm using my homemade olive oil/beeswax mix. It's about 70:30 oil to wax. It's the oiliest mix I use for shooting during the dry months.

HD

 

[BrownBear]

Sounds more or less like the 50:50 mix of deer tallow and olive oil I have been trying for cold weather. It's okay outdoors (around 30 degrees), where it's kinda like vaseline, but indoors or outdoors with the touch of warm skin it turns almost instantly into oil. I'll keep watching your results for comparison.

Interesting (or dicouraging) side note- I had four 50 cal rounds in a loading block for about a week. Lots of oils squeezed out when seating them in the block, and more came out when I seated them in the bore. Three rounds were pretty hot (80+ grains Pyro P) and one was only 50 grains. I can guess which was which, but three of the four ticking patches failed miserably, while one was picturebook. More "research" required.

Gotta say though, that those oily patches seated down the bore easier than anything else I've ever tried.

 

[ldykeman]

I have never heard of "Saran Wrap" referencing anything but plastic wrap. I still have that old Hodgdon Pyrodex/Black Powder Shooters Handbook with the article by Layne Simpson in it entitled "Sure-Fire Big Game Hunting with Pyrodex RS". This is a quote from Layne's article:

"The secret to preventing bloopers is to protect the powder charge from the lubricant by seating a wad of plastic sandwich wrap between the two. There are several brands available and I have been using from a roll of Saran Wrap for several years."

Larry

 

[jtmattison]

Okay, after 25 hours 5 grains of powder stuck to the wad.
When I lit it, it burned just like the powder in the first test. All but 4-5 granules of powder burned. However, this time the residue left behind was oily. It's like the powder was wet with oil but it still burned completely.
Interesting :hmm:

HD

 

[smo]

I guess the plastic from the Saran Wrap would keep the bore from rusting. :rotf: :rotf: :youcrazy:

 

[Zonie]

HD:
Your test results seem to indicate that if a gun was loaded in the morning and hunted with all day the change in the effective powder load would not be worth mentioning.

If the load was left overnight and used 25 hours after loading the 5 grains of contaminated powder also wouldn't likely be noticed when the gun was fired.

Yes, I know that 5 grains can make a difference when someone is target shooting but for hunting purposes it will never be missed.

 

[jtmattison]

I really thought the contaminated powder would take some effort to get burning. I was surprised when it lit right up.
I agree the little bit that was contaminated wouldn't be missed even if it didn't burn well.

A point to bring up is I was using heavily oiled wads and patches and the temperature is in the 80's.

During hunting season the temps shouldn't be that high so the lube shouldn't run that much.

HD

 

[BrownBear]

I agree!

An interesting test would be to see if synthetic oils acted the same way, or if those caused problems even if natural oils didn't.

 

[Mad Professor]

I've left a hunting load (90gr FFg, pre-lubed wonder wad, pre-lubed patch w/PRB or hornaday GP bullet, lubed with NL 1000/bore butter) for weeks-months in a loaded prec rifle (CCI cap sealed with wax, duct tape on muzzle).

In some cases with the gun used in rain/snow. End result was has always fired with no perceptible loss of accuracy.

In fact last shot was after being loaded ca. 3 weeks at a buck at 89 paces, forgot to take into account I was shooting downhill and spined the deer instead of normal H/L shot.

I'm sure results will vary depending on the lube but I feel moisture is the real problem when things are left loaded "too long".