• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

powder for a .54???

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
BB: That was my experience with my .50 rifle, using 2Fg and 3Fg powders, until I tried the .50 cal.( .510" diameter) Vegetable Fiber Wads( Walters) using the 2Fg powder.

My brother bought some .40 cal. Fiber wads to try at the same time, as he was testing Goex 3Fg powder vs. Swiss 3F powder. His chronograph told him he was getting higher velocities using ONLY a PRB in the gun with a same-volume load of Swiss powder. But, when he used a VF Wad under his PRB with both Goex and Swiss powders, the difference in velocity Narrowed considerably, and the SDV dropped into single digits with Goex!

The unexpected side effect was that using the OP wad with both powders caused the BP residue in his barrel to be so similar he could not tell the difference, by feel, or visual examination of his cleaning patch. He has since increased the size of the ball diameter he is using, and finds more efficient(complete) burning of the powder, with and without the use of the OP wad.

Pressure rises, with more time in the barrel for the powder to burn.

You achieve this two ways: using an OP wad, that offers resistance, and delays the movement of your PRB forward in the barrel; and by increasing the powder charge you use. People tend to forget that more powder ADDS MORE MASS that has to be moved by the gases developed as the powder burns. That Added Mass also delays the movement of your PRB from its seated position in front of the barrel, but to a lesser extent than a soft OP wad. The difference between the OP wad and a heavier powder charge, is that the powder BURNS as the pressure rises, creating more gas, and both MORE pressure( more gas in the same space) and hotter temperatures behind the PRB before the PRB moves.

This later phenomena is why BP guns tend to have "TWO" pet loads, one using a light charge that is very accurate, since it vibrates the barrel very little, but uniformly. The other is a heavy charge, often used for a " Hunting Load", that reduces "Barrel Time" for the PRB by increasing its velocity. The reduced barrel time also vibrates the barrel, but the vibrations are so fast that they disturb the POI less. The heavy powder charge ALSO upsets RBs, no matter their composition( within reason) to fill the grooves and provide a consistent seal in the barrel.

Its the heavier powder charge that allows us to shoot swaged alloy lead balls well, when lesser charges don't produce good groups, and often result in an occasional "flyer" on target. Flyers are the result of incomplete sealing, usually because the patch is not properly lubed, or the patch is undersized for the groove depth, and ball diameter.

When shooting Swaged lead balls, or cast balls from other than pure lead, the sage advice to get better accuracy with these balls has always been, "Increase the powder charge by another 5 grains and see if that doesn't improve matters. If not, add more powder!" :thumbsup:
 
I have and can use both 2F and 3F in both of my Flint .54's. Both loads are accurate but my 42" Rayl swamped barrel prefers 2F for sure.
 
Out here we mainly have swiss and Wano powders - swiss is extremely expensive and hard to source. Wano offers two main powders - F series (Fg,FFG,FFFG) and P series (P, PP, PPP) the P is for precision. I use 3P in my 40/65 breachloader and used it in my 54 until recently. Now I use 60gn of 5FA (fireworks powder) cast 100% lead ball and a very tight patch. I also use a 1 in 10 slip 2000 and water mix as my patch lube and cleaner. Combination shoots great with little fouling.
Cheers
 
I agree with stump killer on using 3fff.It works in all my M/L's from .32 to .54. I don't use the .54 enough to even have it.I am exclusively
a B/P hunter and not a paper shooter. My .32 and .36 on squirrels and varmits.My .45 and .50
on deer. 3FFF works in all four calibers just fine.I will say all but the .50 are percussion,
which is F/L.I still use 3FFF for load and prime,
although I do grind it up a bit for the pan.
 
macca,
Check with www.grafs.com for B/P prices.
Don't steer away from the Grafs brand powder.
It is at least equilivent to Goex.Although their
Goex prices are very reasonable by my local standards. Just a suggestion...
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I shoot a custom .54 flinter with a 42in colerain bbl. It really likes FF, I have burned a few pounds of Goex through it, but have switched to the Swiss and will be sticking with it.
 
FFg Goex. 60 gr for short match and plinking stuff. 90 gr for 100-125 competition and hunting.
TC
 
Try both...My 54 cal is a GM 32"x1" flint at 100 yards no difference with 100 gr.Goex.2f or 3f.... I use a wet lube..no swabbing and can shoot till the barrel gets to warm. Each barrel likes what it likes. Good luck!

3 shot group 3f upper...... 2f lower and 2 others?

100 yards benched--testing powders

IMG_1097.jpg
 
Hi Snake eyes,
Bit of a problem, its a hard to import powder from the US into Australia - much as Id like to. When I had my shop(gun and archery) I waited 9 months for a shipment of Winchester Powder to get of the wharf in LA - and it was being imported into Aus by Winchester. Thank goodness we make and export our own smokeless (ADI) - benchmark and varget and a few others are made over here. We pay $16 - $25 a pound for Wano depending on the grade. Swiss will cost you $40 a pound.
Cheers :wink:
 
Back
Top