Powder for Flintlock

[TonyC]

I was watching a youtube video of a guy shooting a Kibler Colonial. He loaded powder from his powder horn and then added patch and ball. Then he primed the pan with the powder from the same powder horn. I watched it several times to be sure I was seeing it right. I’m fairly new to muzzleloading and am under the impression that 3F powder is used for load and 4F for primer. Does anyone have an explanation???
Thanks!

 

[BoomStick]

Finer powder will give faster ignition, but 3F or even 2F will work in the pan. Does simplify carrying stuff in the woods or range.

 

[longcruise]

If he was pouring powder straight from the horn int the barrel that's kind of a no-no.

 

[TonyC]

If he was pouring powder straight from the horn int the barrel that's kind of a no-no.

My bad! He was pouring from the horn to a powder measure. He did pour directly to the pan.

 

[ADK Bigfoot]

Many shooters use the same horn for main charge and prime. I prefer 3F in the charge and Null B (Swiss) for the prime, but 3F works also. One is simpler, one is faster (ignition.)

ADK Bigfoot

 

[Grenadier1758]

The simple explanation is that 3Fg powder will work as the main charge and the priming charge. White it is true that the 3Fg powder in the pan is slower than 4F powder in the pan, it takes specialized timing equipment to really be able to prove that the powders are really that close in timing.

 

[hanshi]

I much prefer 4F for prime but have used 3F a few times and couldn't tell a difference.

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

My bad! He was pouring from the horn to a powder measure. He did pour directly to the pan.

Think about this and decide for yourself. If he charged the barrel from a measure, why? Because it is better to have 50 or 60 grains go off in your hand then the whole powder horn. If you are shooting a flintlock, and should experience preignition due to embers or whatever, is pouring directly from the horn into the pan OK? The barrel may be pointed in a safe direction, but what will occur at the touch hole?
I know my answer.
Larry

 

[Comfortably_Numb]

 

[kh0456]

I used 2f or 3F to prime for years with no issue. About a year ago a friend was getting out of shooting and I bought the powder he had. There was a pound of 4F as well…. First time I used 4F…. I have to say I really don’t see a difference. Maybe there is and I just can’t tell…
i think back in the colonial times…. Those guys didn’t have the luxury of having different grades of powder… so it was one and done.

 

[French Colonial]

Think about this and decide for yourself. If he charged the barrel from a measure, why? Because it is better to have 50 or 60 grains go off in your hand then the whole powder horn. If you are shooting a flintlock, and should experience preignition due to embers or whatever, is pouring directly from the horn into the pan OK? The barrel may be pointed in a safe direction, but what will occur at the touch hole?
I know my answer.
Larry

Yes but....

Would not the powder you poured down the barrel have already been set off by the ember?

When shooting at a match with a bench etc. I find it is easiest to leave the powder horn on the bench and our club does not allow you to prime the gun until you are at the line, gun pointed down range. Woods walk is different and if someone wishes to prime with their main horn that works just as well.

 

[Comfortably_Numb]

That is helpful to no one.

But it makes me feel GREAT!

 

[Bill Bryan]

I have several 4F priming tools but the vents on my flintlocks have opened up to the point that my flintlocks are self priming if I keep the frizzed closed. Bill

 

[Sidney Smith]

I use 3fg as the charge, and in the pan of my .32 caliber rifle, and it ignites fast. I've found 2fg in the pan to not be as reliable in igniting the main charge, so in my 2fg guns, I still use 4fg as the primer.

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

Yes but....

Would not the powder you poured down the barrel have already been set off by the ember?

When shooting at a match with a bench etc. I find it is easiest to leave the powder horn on the bench and our club does not allow you to prime the gun until you are at the line, gun pointed down range. Woods walk is different and if someone wishes to prime with their main horn that works just as well.

A good point to ponder, which I alread have done. It comes down to just how much risk a person wants to take. My thoughts may not agree with others, but to me it is so simple to just use a small push snout primer flask kept in the back pocket. Don't forget about Murphy's law too. ( "Anything that can go wrong will go wrong".)
Larry

 

[Sidney Smith]

Honestly I think that burning ember line is a myth. I've never seen it happen, nor have I had it happen to me. I do not blow down the barrel either. That said, I'm still not going to pour powder directly from a horn into the barrel. Moreso because how can you gauge how much you're putting in versus using a measure, than the next to nil chance of an ember setting it off.

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

Honestly I think that burning ember line is a myth. I've never seen it happen, nor have I had it happen to me. I do not blow down the barrel either. That said, I'm still not going to pour powder directly from a horn into the barrel. Moreso because how can you gauge how much you're putting in versus using a measure, than the next to nil chance of an ember setting it off.

Totally your right to believe what you want!
Why do cannon shooters swab with a wet sponge between shots, then wait 1/2 hour before placing another charge? A rifle may be on a lower scale, but the same principle of chemistry is going on.

I personally have not had it happen to me. I don't hurry my powder charge after a shot, leaving ample time for embers to extinguish. I have heard testimony from other shooters who have had cook off occur to them, or seen it occur, so I am a believer.
Larry

 

[springfield art]

I was watching a youtube video of a guy shooting a Kibler Colonial. He loaded powder from his powder horn and then added patch and ball. Then he primed the pan with the powder from the same powder horn. I watched it several times to be sure I was seeing it right. I’m fairly new to muzzleloading and am under the impression that 3F powder is used for load and 4F for primer. Does anyone have an explanation???
Thanks!

Back in the olden times, they used the same powder for everything. It's only in our modern times with easy available choices of powders that people decided to use a finer grain for priming. To each his own, but I bet the ignition times for the powders are only detectible by the most sophisticated modern electronic instruments. If someone wants to use 3 or 4F for priming, great! But is it really any faster than using 2F for load AND prime?

 

[Trot]

I use 3f for charge and prime, I suppose it may be slightly slower but not enough for me to tell. I know not everyone agrees with this, but I also feel 3f doesn't get damp as quickly in the pan. I used to have the occasional failure to fire due to damp prime but haven't had it happen once since switching to 3f.

 

[ColonialRifleSmith]

I was watching a youtube video of a guy shooting a Kibler Colonial. He loaded powder from his powder horn and then added patch and ball. Then he primed the pan with the powder from the same powder horn. I watched it several times to be sure I was seeing it right. I’m fairly new to muzzleloading and am under the impression that 3F powder is used for load and 4F for primer. Does anyone have an explanation???
Thanks!

I didn't read all the reply's, however NEVER load from your horn, powder can or any other container. ALWAYS use a measure. Also, I never use 4F. I always use the same powder in the pan as in the charge. Always have, always will. Semper Fi.