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Powder source....the good stuff

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I know you are a crafty guy, go with a Kibler Woodsrunner kit, easiest kit on the market to put together, everything is CNC matched. You should have it together in 2 or 3 hours. Slicking up the metal parts and applying a finish to the stock and metal is easy but takes a day or two to accomplish.

If you go with top quality from the start, you will never regret your decision.

Shoot any questions you have my way, I sorta' have this whole building thing figured out.
Thanks a lot Eric. That is pretty much the direction I am heading now. I have a TC rifle to unload first so I can buy the kit. It's sitting on my buddies gun shop rack as I type.
 
Hey all,

New to the forum and hopefully new to flint locks. I cant find any powder in Michigan and am wondering if anybody can tip me off to powder sources in northern Ohio possibly? Buying a new flinter or kit with a constant search for powder doesn't sound like a good time to me as I like to shoot. Hoping not to get laughed off the forum :)
Don't know if you're anywhere near Kalamazoo, but On Target typically stocks black powder there. The Log Cabin Shop in Lodi, Ohio also stocks it, but they may be quite a drive depending on where you're at. Their black powder museum and library is worth making the trip whether you're looking for powder or not though!
 
Welcome I'm in Northwest Michigan. Just for a heads up with flintlocks. Get a gun with the BEST lock you can buy.
That's why so many on here go with the Kibler kits.
Kibler has one of the, if not the best locks out their.
Also his kits are super easy to put together. The kits go together in a few hours. Its the staining the wood and metal prep that takes time. Good luck on your choice.
 
As for patch lube, a lot of us use mink oil for TOW, cheap and reliable. For patching I have found that #40 100% cotton pocket drill cloth from Joann's works the best for me. Much tighter weave than pillow ticking, the thickness is around .018 which is perfect for my .54 deer rifles and a .530 ball.

If you go with a Kibler, the woods runner in .54 is lighter weight with a perfect balance point, I have shouldered a bunch of them at the local long rifle show. I have lusted for one of these rifles ever since they came out, the problem is I have three .54s, two flint and one percussion as well as another percussion in .50, I just can't justify another deer caliber rifle.

My last build had a similar 38" barrel in .54, I love this profile and its weight and balance, I have made this gun my #1 deer hunting rifle.

For cleaning, I just discovered this stuff, 3 wet patches and 3 dry patches and you are done except for lubing the barrel. I am still in the testing phase on this stuff but so far it looks really good.

butch's.JPG
 
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Thanks Eric. I have a lot of mink oil. I use it on all my leather goods. Boots, shoes, side bags, possibles pouches, straps and whatever else I can find to smear it on. Great stuff.
 
I just (months ago) ordered the bear oil stuff from member Frontier. Have had no chance to try but it seems like about the same consistency etc (if not left in the truck in the sun all day LOL). Cheaper too I believe. I grabbed two tins but if it excels at the range and makes me look better (HARD TO DO) I will get serval more. HOARDER me
 
As for patch lube, a lot of us use mink oil for TOW, cheap and reliable. For patching I have found that #40 100% cotton pocket drill cloth from Joann's works the best for me. Much tighter weave than pillow ticking, the thickness is around .018 which is perfect for my .54 deer rifles and a .530 ball.

If you go with a Kibler, the woods runner in .54 is lighter weight with a perfect balance point, I have shouldered a bunch of them at the local long rifle show. I have lusted for one of these rifles ever since they came out, the problem is I have three .54s, two flint and one percussion as well as another percussion in .50, I just can't justify another deer caliber rifle.

My last build had a similar 38" barrel in .54, I love this profile and its weight and balance, I have made this gun my #1 deer hunting rifle.

For cleaning, I just discovered this stuff, 3 wet patches and 3 dry patches and you are done except for lubing the barrel. I am still in the testing phase on this stuff but so far it looks really good.

View attachment 277650
What's it's main ingredient?
 
I have answered that same question type on primitive archery forums for years. I promise I won’t ask any “what's the best?” questions. I'm a hard headed, stubborn, hands-on German guy that would rather fail 10x than ask a simple question.
Yes, I recognized the name. You may recognize mine. Hey, what's the best bow to buy anyway, and will 30# kill a deer?
 
When I run out I now know where to look. Thanks to all of you fellas. I have nearly 3# of old, stale American Pioneer to rid myself of. I don’t trust it anymore. It even has a smell to it that is off a touch.
 
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