Powder won't ignite

[gmww]

From left to right. Musket cap nipple that came with rifle. After market musket cap nipple with larger hole and finally #11 after market nipple.

Notice the flash holes are larger in the after market nipples. Now add a musket cap or Mag. #11 cap to the mix and I think you'll understand why you'll get better ignition with them.

I also clean out the drum area with pipe cleaner. I know when its really cleaned out when a stream of water comes out when I fill the barrel with hot soapy water.

 

[ladysmithtrading]

gmww: I've tried CCI's and "newer hotter" remington primers in #11. I'll try that patch idea and see what happens.

JT: I have a machinist friend who offered to help me if I told him how it came apart. I might take you up on the offer of looking at it though if I don't get it figured out soon. Was hoping to take a deer with it this year but guess I might have to put it off until next season.

TCS have a lifetime factory warantee, if you rmove the breech plug from the barrel you will void this waranty, just thought id let you know, you may try putting a small plastic cap on the nipple such as one that you can get off of a bungee cord, seals water tite, then fill the barrel with your favorite cleaning solution and let it soak a day or two, then clean again, I use a pipe cleaner to clean my flash chamber, works well, you can also use hydrogen peroxide for a soak but only let it sit 20 mins , will be amazed how much manure this cleans from the barrel and breech end from a "clean" gun, good luck, Jim

 

[John Taylor]

The plug has right hand threads. The barrel is made from 12L14 and will scratch and dent easy. You might be able to hold it in a vice with wood blocks to keep from marking the finnish. Breach plug is cast steel and not very hard.

 

[wfosborn]

Well, I don't see any screws on the drum. I can get a pipe cleaner down the hole the nippel is screwed into though if I try hard enough.

One thing that confuses me is why I'd see a leaf or something move at the end of the barrel when I snap a cap off if it won't ignite the powder.

Have a hotter nippel on the way, will see if that helps.

 

[Arrowstorm]

I haven't seen anyone suggest this, but if you say that a fired cap can move a leaf, then it may have no bearing, but you have to make sure that the fire is getting into the barrel. Screw your cleaning jag onto your ramrod and push a patch down the barrel with it. Leave the ramrod ALL the way down the barrel and fire a cap then. Pull out your ramrod and have a look at the patch. If there is a burn mark on your patch there is no reason that I can think of why your powder shouldn't be igniting other than your powder is too damp or moist. If it is NOT burned black, then you've got another problem, and you may want to make sure that there is absolutely nothing blocking your spark path.

Also... make sure that the pyrodex RS you bought is NOT "Pryodex Select" with the black and silver label. I have had problems with this blend in my sidelocks. It is more coarse than regular RS and I believe requires an even hotter burn temp than the regular RS. Regular Pyrodex RS in the orange and silver labelled bottle should have no problem igniting if you're getting burn marks on your patches when rammed down the barrel. The select, on the other hand has actually given me extremely long delays and sometimes does not even go off with a #11 cap without a layered charge of 3f.

 

[Landngroove]

I have several T/C White Mountain Carbines, in both .50, and .54 caliber. They all shoot very well. Have never had ignition problems with them, in fact My .54 is my favorite ML. I have shot Goex FFG, FFFG, Goex Pinnacle FFFG, American Pioneer Powder FFG, and FFFG, in these MLs. I have a musket cap on my .54, and #11 standard nipple on my .50's. Again, never an ignition problem. I would start out by removing the barrel, and putting it in a pail of HOT water, and a little dishsoap, take your jag with patch, and pump water thru the barrel, and out the flash channel. Do this until water runs freely thru. make sure you dry the barrel completely. Next I would replace the nipple with the type of your choice. (#11, Musket Cap, Hot Shot, Etc.) Now try shooting your WMC. Also after storing your ML, when you take it out to shoot again, take care to wipe the bore with a dry patch, to remove any oil/lube you used to prevent rust. Also, snap off a few caps to dry out the nipple/fire channel area. Good Luck.