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BUERICH

32 Cal.
Joined
Feb 8, 2005
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I'm getting the hawken sporterized in .54 cal. i will be shooting patched round balls and buffalo ballets most likely. what type of powder should i use, and how much? i think i read somewhere that FFG or FFFG would be good in 80-90 grain charges. is this right? does the FFG or FFFG change as you got to different brands or is it pretty standardized? also i've never fired a muzzleloader so any tips on sighting one in or loading would be appreciated.

thanks

Erich
 
I'll be shootin texas deer and hogs inside 100yds. I just need a load that will do that. but there's a chance i may shoot some elk or very large hogs. if anyone knows a good heavy load i'd like to hear about that too.

Erich
 
also seems like most favor traditional black powder. the cabelas magazine i have has some stuff by a company called american pioneer. is it any good. a lot of memebers here seen to praise goex. should i just go with that?
 
Whether you use ffg or fffg depends on how your rifle likes them, the old advice was to use ffg with the .54. I'd start with a roundball and 70 grs of ffg and see how she shoots. Go up in 5-10 gr increments until you find the most accurate load. fffg gives higher pressures, but if your rifle is a good strong one, it should handle fffg in reasonable loads. :m2c:
 
.....also i've never fired a muzzleloader so any tips on sighting one in or loading would be appreciated. Erich

FYI...there is more to muzzleloading than meets the eye and I've always thought it was a good decision to invest a couple hours reading and understanding some of the basics...usually covered in introductrory manuals, articles, etc, about muzzleloading...everything from loads to cleaning.

At the top of the forum, there's a category called muzzleloading links...if you take a look in there, scroll down the list, and you'll see a few that sound like introductory titles as good places to start...enjoy!!
 
Erich,

You are using the 80-90 figure for two different powders as though they were the same. There is a considerable pressure difference between these powders.

You are correct in that there is variance between the f measures of several manufacturers of powder. You must look up their recommendations. Swiss and Goex are quite different.

Goex has a handy chart (http://www.goexpowder.com/load-chart.html) and Lyman has a good book for loading data (http://lymanproducts.com/lymanproducts/books.htm)
both mention that the recommended powder for a .54 is 2f. You should look up their sites or refer to your user manuals.

Some will tell you that you will be okay using 3f, but others will warn that you will experience chamber erosion if you use heavy charges of 3f for any length of time in a large bore.

Either way may be true or not, but you should at least consider the information from those sources and then make your powder decision with competent advice.

YMHS,
CrackStock
 
Muzzleloading is such a personal past time and even tho the essentials appear to be simple, and they are, there is always something new to learn. Each rifle is an entity unto itself and therein lies much of the joy of muzzleloading, any shooting for that matter. As you shoot this rifle more you'll learn it's idiosyncrosies.

Being the kind of guy that likes to cut to the chase, here are my two pretty much standard loads for my two 54's. For matches and just plinking around the place I load 60 grs. of GOEX FFg. My hunting load has for years been 100 grs. of the same powder altho this year I dropped back to 80 simply because our new place is so thickly forested that a shot much beyond 40 yards is highly unlikely. I also only shoot patched round ball.

As for powders I've always used good ol' black. I tried a couple cans of Pyrodex and never did acquire a liking for it. Were I to use a replica black powder it would be Hodgons 777. I've used some 777 in a couple of my cartridge firing rifles and really liked the performance of it. In my 40-70 Sharps it was quite accurate. If I remember correctly it beat black by a few tenths of an inch at 100 yards but 100 yards is no test for a load in a Sharps.

As for sighting in I've always sighted my ML's in for 75 yards then fired them at 100 yards to verify bullet strike. On deer or hog sized game no correction should be necessary for the greater distance.

Mostly just get out there and shoot...there's no substitute for experience. Good luck!

Vic
 
I shoot a 62 cal using 60 grains FFF. If it were mine I'd use FFF lot's less fowling and a can of powder will last you longer :redthumb:
 
You need time on the range. It takes anywhere from 2-8 hours to sight in a muzzle loader. I would start at 25 yards , then 50 and 100. You will need different loads for roundball and conicals, as well as differant sight adjustments. Keep good notes, include temperture, light and wind conditions, loads and group size. Shoot for group, then adjust sights. You will get several differant opinions,
however, I use only 3f. Seems to burn cleaner for me. Keep in mind that due to burn rates ect... 3f will give around 30% more volasity at measurement than 2f. Be sure to check the owners manual for load capacities. You are about to get biten by the black powder bug - ENJOY !!
 
Forgot to answer part of your question. Black powder changes from manufacturer to manufacturer. To complicate things more, black powder can change from lot to lot from the same manufacturer. Once again, the importance of making good notes. The changes are not that great, but could be the differance between a 10x and a 9.
 
If it were me, I think I'd zero at 85 yards, then you'd still be minute of deer out to 125 yards or so, beyond which PRBs kinda lose too much energy for humane killin'. The Ballettes aren't much better, you just don't need to patch 'em. :m2c:
 
Erich,
get yourself to a range and SHOOT,SHOOT AND THEN SHOOT SOME MORE!!!! different loads, size balls, patch and
lube. It's all part of b/p shooting :imo: :results:
snake-eyes :peace: :) :thumbsup:
 
Erich- If you are just starting out I would suggest staying with Goex, it is easier to use, and a lot more forgiving. You will have more fun with Real B/P and less aggravation. I do shoot SUB's and real B/P, sub powders take a little(sometimes a lot) more work to shoot well. Beleive me, you will have enough to think about without the added aggravation. You have come to right place..the folks here can answer and help you with almost any problem you may encounter.. I still consider myself a "New-Kid" when it comes to muzzel loading rifles..Respectfully Montanadan
 
thanks for all the info. I know full well that you can't just pick up a gun and go afield. especially somethin like black powder. I fully intend to spend a lot of time on the range learning what i'm doing. For my purposes the gun would be solely a hunting rifle as my other modern rifles, and being able to make a quick clean kill is important. i won't take it to the field until i feel i can do so. Sounds like GOEX FFG is what i need. i'll probably start with 80grns at 50yds. start with the patched round balls till i get the feel for it, and then either stay with them if i like them, or work into a simple lead conical. another question though--are round balls the only bullets you patch? seems like i remember someone saying that with the buffalo ballets you don't need to patch them?

Erich
 
sounds like i need to find a book to read about this stuff too. whats an over powder wad? my concept of muzzle loadin i guess has always been measure your powder, put it down first. then lay a patch over the bore, set a rnd ball on top, start it with the ball starter, and then seat it the rest of the way with the ramrod. cap it if its a percussion or prime the flashpan if its a flint and your good to go. i coulda been watchin too many davey crocket movies though. i don really know. is an over powder wad just a thicker wad that goes in under the ballet, but not neccessarily wwrapped like a prb?
 
Some people use a lubed felt overpowder wad (Wonder Wad)under the ball or bullet for a better gas seal and patch protection. Have never used them in a rifle, but do use them in my smoothbores, only the ones i use aren't felt, but a thick card wad.
 
Anybody else get aggravated when they go to charts like the GOEX chart? Black writing on very dark grey background that you can't read or even copy into an email to get different background color. Bummer.
 

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